Gloss to Satin(Neck)

chenzman

Hi all,

I'm looking at removing the sticky feeling from the back of the neck of one of my guitars by sanding the neck.

What's the best method to remove the glossy layer, not down to wood. I'm thinking 0000 grade steel wool and masking tape?

My Prs Akerfeldt came like this and it's a great playing guitar with no stickiness to hold up my playing.


Any suggestions/guides from anyone who has does this would be appreciated.

Thanks

Vince

ThePrettyDamned

If it's a poly, steel wool that fine won't touch it.  

I actually have done it before, I think with 400 grit sandpaper, but best wait for someone more qualified anyway. 

It did work though

Deadman

400 would work, but the threshold between where you've rubbed and where you haven't may look a bit dodgy. 600 might be a better option. 2400 micromesh would also be ideal.

stonevibe

I've used a green scouring pad before on a PRS to remove the shine. You don't need wire wool or 400 grit to make the neck matte.

samzadgan

i used Scotch Brite and that worked…hardly removed enough for the gloss finish to change, but enough to make it a smooth surface.

BTW…Vince, what did you think of that PRS? i was really close to buying the Akesson model a while ago.

Deadman

Of course, fine scotchbrite would work. I use it to key poly all the time prior to painting.

p90fool

stonevibe said:

I've used a green scouring pad before on a PRS to remove the shine. You don't need wire wool or 400 grit to make the neck matte.

This is what I use too. It does polish back up after a few months just through playing, but that just proves to me that I'm removing the minimum possible.

grungebob

Yeah green scourer works great an fine alunimium glass paper works very well too

chenzman

Thanks everyone, much appreciated, I'll give it a go

chenzman

samzadgan;175856" said:

i used Scotch Brite and that worked…hardly removed enough for the gloss finish to change, but enough to make it a smooth surface.

BTW…Vince, what did you think of that PRS? i was really close to buying the Akesson model a while ago.

Hi Sam,

The Akerfeldt is a lovely guitar and amazing build for the money. I think I picked mine up for £300 and have done a few mods I personally wanted.

The mods are graphtech saddles, Brass tone block and spring claw(had these both made for great prices), locking tuner and graphtech nut. Out of all of these however, I would only say the Nut and maybe the machine heads were essential. All in, I probably spent about £80.

The Akesson I doubt would need any mods other than maybe the nut. The tonepros adjustable bridge is instant win! I'm also very tempted on getting my hands on one, quite rare second hand though.

WezV

Deadman said:

400 would work, but the threshold between where you've rubbed and where you haven't may look a bit dodgy. 600 might be a better option. 2400 micromesh would also be ideal.

or keep going up to 12000 grit micromesh.... it keeps the gloss so it still looks stock,  but looses most of the stickiness and feels very fast/frictionless

ThePrettyDamned

stonevibe said:

I've used a green scouring pad before on a PRS to remove the shine. You don't need wire wool or 400 grit to make the neck matte.

Oh yeah, I hit mine with a scouring pad after the sandpaper.  Wisdom! It was a long time ago... 

Deadman

WezV said:

Deadman said:

400 would work, but the threshold between where you've rubbed and where you haven't may look a bit dodgy. 600 might be a better option. 2400 micromesh would also be ideal.

or keep going up to 12000 grit micromesh.... it keeps the gloss so it still looks stock,  but looses most of the stickiness and feels very fast/frictionless

Think I'll try that with my Tokai Strat @WezV , cheers.

chenzman

And alas I found a video of someone doing it with a scouring/ scotch brite pad -

djspecialist

Thinking about doing this, so time to resurrect a thread ...

WezV said:

Deadman said:

400 would work, but the threshold between where you've rubbed and where you haven't may look a bit dodgy. 600 might be a better option. 2400 micromesh would also be ideal.

or keep going up to 12000 grit micromesh.... it keeps the gloss so it still looks stock,  but looses most of the stickiness and feels very fast/frictionless

@WezV, did you mean go straight in with 12000 grit micromesh, or start with something coarser (2400?) and then work up to 12000?

WezV

no point going straight in with 12000 grit.   I normally start from 1800 micromesh if its just to take the sticky feeling off the neck.

if its actually goign to be satin then i would go from 600 wet and dry to about 1800 micromesh

djspecialist

WezV said:

no point going straight in with 12000 grit.   I normally start from 1800 micromesh if its just to take the sticky feeling off the neck.

if its actually goign to be satin then i would go from 600 wet and dry to about 1800 micromesh

My aim is just to take the sticky feel off the back of the neck.  As far as possible I'd like to keep it looking as it does now - I realise it will look slightly less shiny, but I don't want there to be too much of an obvious transition where the neck meets the body.  So should I start with 1800 micromesh?  And then work up to higher values?

WezV

yeah, you need to pretty much satinise the whole lot nice and evenly and then work up through the grits - but don't go too heavy with the low grits and watch out for any hard edges like the corners of the heel where you could sand through easier.  

the micro mesh stuff sands very evenly, so a few swipes will probably do with the lower grits, then you will spend more time  with each grit as you go up.  starting with 2400 will be safer if you have not done it before

Deijavoo

+1 on scouring pad. Do it lightly though.

chenzman

I used the scouring pad and then a super fine wet&dry sanding sponge to smooth it over, worked a treat

chenzman

Just make sure you mask either end and you'll be good to go