Heres How My California Strat Trem Block Install Went

Flink_Poyd

After wandering into this thread http://www.thefretboard.co.uk/discussion/124615/replacement-steel-tremolo-block-for-strats/p1 I decided to buy a trem block to install. The most "modding" Ive done before is change pickups so this was new territory for me, so here goes but first of all

DISCLAIMER: First time Ive attempted this so dont look at it as a "How To" more of a "How I did it"

First off the dining room table was cleared, and covered with a sheet for better grip and not getting a telling off from Lady Poyd.

The tools.
Wire snips, precision screwdriver set, not so precision screwdriver, new strings, string winder and needle nose pliers (not pictured)


The new trem block




The old trem block for weight comparison.


5 grams difference so approx 2% heavier than the old one.

Flink_Poyd

First off I took as many photos as I though necessary for reference. I block my Strat so it wasnt all that important but its a habit Ive developed when taking stuff apart.








On the trem arm side theres a slight gap/underlap. If I hadnt taken the photos and noticed it beforehand I might have thought there was a problem after installing, this is why I take photos.

First job was to get the strings off


Second job was this as my phone battery ran out.



Lets hope this goes better than my first few attempts at mug printing.....

Flink_Poyd

Down to business
6 screws to remove the plate and heres what we're dealing with



Yes the inside of a Strat trem setup, not that exciting really



Needlenose pliers to remove the springs. Remember these are under tension so either loosen the 2 screws in the body or be careful the dont ping off or pinch any fleshy bits.

Flink_Poyd

Back on to the pretty side to remove the 6 bridge plate screws.


Theres nothing holding the trem to the body anymore so it just pulls up and out


Theres 3 screws holding the plate to the block that need to be removed but the saddles are in the way.



First I thought Id have to remove all the saddles but after loosening them enought I spread then apart like this.



One thing I did do before I loosened them was grab a pen and paper. I counted the amount of turns on each screw so I had a rough Idea of how to set them back.

Flink_Poyd

New block to the left, old one on the right.





Hard to tell from these pics but the hew one is a slightly different shape.

Check that everything lines up and the screwed it onto the bridge plate

Flink_Poyd

Now this is where a problem showed up.


Dropped it in for a test fit and something wasnt right. In the top left of the cavity theres and overlap of about 1mm which was fouling the side of the block. This was my worst nightmare, something not aligning or fitting properly but a bit of fine work with a scalpel and some sandpaper (no wood files in my gaff) took enough of the overlap away to get everything lined up.

Time to drop it in.


The top right (as were looking at it) of the block is very, very close if not touching the body. This is the part where Id like any opinions on whether its a good or bad thing. As I said I block it of so its not going to move so my brain said its not a massive issue.
 All that was left to do was re-string, tune up and hope to hell that nothing fell off or disintegrated into a million pieces. To my amazement nothing did. Im glad I wrote down the amount of turns for the saddle screws as the intonation was pretty much as before, one less job to do.
 Im not sure if this is snake oil or something that Ive never noticed before but after plucking a string and letting it ring I can feel a nice light vibration through the guitar all the way down the neck. New strings maybe? Something Ive never noticed? The block is an improvement? Am I kidding myself? I really dont know.


So in conclusion how difficult is it?
Theres not much to it apart from loosening screws but as long as you take your time, take plenty of reference photos and note stuff down its not that difficult to do. I'd say it took about an hour to do with re-stringing but in that same hour I made a few cuppas, emptied the washing machine, had to modify the cavity a bit and it was my first time doing it so I didnt rush.

Does it make a huge difference?
Unknown as Im going to give it a day or so to settle or work in a bit and re-check nothings loose. I did enjoy doing it and I understand a bit better how my guitar is put together and works that little bit better so it was definitely worth it in that respect.

stephen.wood125

Nice write up, cheers!

Stephen.

Flink_Poyd

stephen.wood125 said:

Nice write up, cheers!

Stephen.

Probably took as long to do the post as it did to do the job

Wazmeister

Really interesting mate, and thanks for posting it !

I can share your fear, as memories came back of the first time I tinkered with my Strat...

Rocker

Very good post.  And good work too.  Well done.

Flink_Poyd

Wazmeister said:

Really interesting mate, and thanks for posting it !

I can share your fear, as memories came back of the first time I tinkered with my Strat...

I like to tinker. I taught myself how to disassemble computers, far more steps, small and intricate parts where a tiny slip can break something important.
This on the other hand is a lot more straightforward but I was far more hesitant at starting this. It's my Strat! 

handsomerik

Good read. Helpful. Thanks :-)

munckee

Can you tell me your neck radius please (been checking out your saddles : )

I've been considering this as I have  squier which has a skinny zinc block so if yours makes a difference I should really notice a difference.  Although mine is not blocked.

Flink_Poyd

munckee said:

Can you tell me your neck radius please (been checking out your saddles : )

I've been considering this as I have  squier which has a skinny zinc block so if yours makes a difference I should really notice a difference.  Although mine is not blocked.

Honestly not sure about the radius but I'd guess it's 9 1/2. The block inclupostage vote £30 so it's a cheap mod/ upgrade

randella

Nice looking guitar! 

If you can feel more vibration (resonance) in the guitar body I'd say that's a good thing.  As you're not using the trem 'floating' I'd say it makes little to no difference with teh block touching the body as long as a) you didn't have to force the six screws back in (i.e. you cleared enough material with your scalpel), and b) everything's straight (it plays in tune and intonates as before you started).

The bridge is screwed to the body in six places anyway so a new contact point between the bridge assembly and body is moot.

@munckee if it's not a vintage or vintage reissue guitar (it looks to be neither, although transition logo and rosewood fretboard it could be a '62 reissue I guess) it'll be 9 1/2".  The OP will confirm I'm sure