Let’s try and leave snarky comments at the door, I know the ultimate cure is not to buy one!
;-)We are where we are and I love my Gibson, but don’t love the tuning instability.
So, in an effort to document some potential best practices from the experts on here, like
@FelineGuitars and @ICBM, and others, I’m really hoping to get a go-to guide going to help myself and others, if you would be so kind as to share your advice?
Apologies if this has been done before, but I’m really struggling and need to find out some ways of fixing the issues with the G string, mainly.
many thanks
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View my feedback at www.thefretboard.co.uk/discussion/comment/1201922
View my feedback at www.thefretboard.co.uk/discussion/comment/1201922
Lithium grease, one tub will last years and years if you’re only doing your own guitars. This is of course assuming the nut is cut correctly, which has to be step 1.
Then use nut sauce for extra lubrication if needed, but it rarely is.
Nil Satis Nisi Optimum
At the end of the day that wide headstock is just not ideal for minimising string friction on the G and D strings.
The Buzz Feiten tuning system is a set of intonation changes which makes the guitar *play* more (or less, depending on your viewpoint) in tune - it has no bearing on whether the guitar *stays* in tune, which is to do with the string sticking at the nut or bridge saddle, or slipping on the machinehead post... or very rarely a faulty machinehead.
Personally I'm not a fan - the forward compensated nut position is correct (PRS and others also use it) but the intonation offsets make some chords in some positions sound worse, so I prefer to simply set them up the same way as normal.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
Anyway, here's Andy James shredding on an LP type with an evertune.
Thanks for all your thoughts. everyone. I need to practice cutting a few nuts...I can tell mine isn't up to scratch based on the reading and research I've done tonight...needs work, for sure.
Also need to find myself some good tools.
This advice seems good, is it? http://www.lutherie.net/nuts.html
View my feedback at www.thefretboard.co.uk/discussion/comment/1201922
Scale length will always mean intonation is a compromise, which is worse than a Fender/PRS scale length
And that G nut to peg angle will always be prone to pinching at the nut
None of that stops it from being a great guitar though
I’d be interested to know the logic behind that...
As long as all the frets are correctly spaced then any scale length can be intonated accurately.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
View my feedback at www.thefretboard.co.uk/discussion/comment/1201922
In standard tuning there’s not really any noticeable difference between Gibson and Fender scale lengths in use that I’ve noticed.
Personally I found in drop B that my Les Paul was appreciably worse for playing intonation than my Fender and even PRS guitars. It just goes sharp more easily, even with thick strings. This is due to tension more so than an inherent intonation issue with the scale. You can of course play it in tune, just with a lesser dynamic range.
@AlexC your Epiphone won't have the same severe headstock angle (I think it's shallower), and shouldn't have such severe issues as this one.
View my feedback at www.thefretboard.co.uk/discussion/comment/1201922
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