Ok I have a valve special soon to be coming in the post and a G12H30 anniversary on it's way.
What I hope to end up with is a decent sounding amp that looks superb.
I plan to:
Add a tone + master volume (and maybe a few other mods.)
maybe replace the output transfomer (Hammond 125*** seems pretty common, and it would give me a 16 ohm output...)
Build it into a new enclosure and add the new speaker.
I quite like the look of Dr Z amps, so this, I hope, will end up looking like a Maz 18 Jr combo.
First question of the day is the cabinet - Pine or Ply?
Pine is a bit more resonant, and a lot cheaper (certainly compared to void free 'fancy' ply).
Ply is more expensive - (this depends - do I need really high end Baltic birch void free?).
I am going to tolex the cab so surface imperfections are not too critical - any suggestions?
Just ordered the pine, £28! A little pricey but I have used it before and it was £1/m less now!
Next question - I am going to rehouse the amp into a new chassis to fit the cab - steel or aluminium?
Ally would be easier to work with, but the local metalworkers recommend steel as it's easier to bend and cheaper.
Update #1
The pine is here - 2 x 2.4m 20mm * 275mm
I think I can scrape by and use the current chassis
Just waiting in the actual amp now!
Update #2
All the parts have now arrived, I will post a photo soon, I have loads of tolex, enough to cover an additional head and cab!
I replaced the output transformer today with a Hammond 125ESE, massive 15 watter!
Comments
"Nobody is really researching robot jokes"
"Nobody is really researching robot jokes"
Plus red is awesome If it ends up looking like that Dr Z it'll be worth it
"Nobody is really researching robot jokes"
"Nobody is really researching robot jokes"
"Nobody is really researching robot jokes"
"Nobody is really researching robot jokes"
"Nobody is really researching robot jokes"
You may be able to alter the orientation of the new output TX to lower this. Can't remember what one of those Epi chassis looks like.
In general, you should try to keep the axis through the centre of the coils at 90-degrees to each other (mains TX vs output TX). If you post before/after photos we may be able to suggest something.
"Nobody is really researching robot jokes"