Need to wire up the S to make it an HS

darius

Got the EVH frankie recently, its got the unused but live neck singlecoil with wires ready to go.

I want to wire it in, but i just want a 2way selector - either H or S, ie no combination of H&S, and keep the single Vol pot, no Tone.

Its got a convenient 10mm hole in the scratchplate for a switch, i want a toggle stick switch rather than an inline 5way style.

Obviously I have to desolder the humbucker from the Vol pot, and the wiring diagram is simple.

Where do you go to get a really good reliable 2position switch? Allparts only have mini-toggles, and 3way seems to be the common standard. I did consider use a 3way and leave the middle pos as a kill switch but then reckoned it will just 'pop/cut' too much. Trying to keep it simple.

And any tips / warnings ie How can i screw this up?

Do i need to add shielding or anything?

ICBM

A 10mm bushing will be hard or impossible to find, but if you don't mind opening it out to 12mm (or 1/2"), then a full-size heavy-duty SPDT switch will do it.

Something like this, which has a nice 'guitar size' toggle rather than the usual longer 'amp style' one.

https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/toggle-switches/8199303/

darius

thanks @ICBM

could you remind me the functional difference between SPDT and DPDT, I can't remember my electronics.

ICBM

S - single pole, D - double pole.

If you can find a DPDT the right size and toggle type, use it and wire both poles in parallel which increases reliability and slightly reduces switching noise usually.

Funkfingers

Why not do a George Lynch? Single push-pull volume pot. Down selects humbucker. Up selects single coil neck PU.

ICBM

Funkfingers said:

Why not do a George Lynch? Single push-pull volume pot. Down selects humbucker. Up selects single coil neck PU.

A push-push would be great for that.

darius

No, don't want to change the Bournes low friction vol pot.

I can certainly see some DPDTs that would suit, your recommended 'wire both poles in parallel' - i interpret that as split each pu cable in to 2 and connect each one, like each pu is two pu. ie not just connect one pole to its neighbour. correct?

ICBM

No, just connect both poles together across the switch so they are doing the same thing at the same time. That sounds pointless but it improves reliability and can reduce noise because any tiny dust particle or something that could interrupt the contact would have to be in both at the same time.

Switching both wires from each pickup would be the worst possible way to do it, since a problem in *either* would break the signal.

darius

ok, much easier then.

darius

Hi @ICBM again
Cracking on with this mod. 

Do I need to ground the 2way toggle switch?
Theres no grounding lug on the body of the switch (knitter mtg206n), I’m reluctant to plonk a mess of solder on the body if I don’t have to. 

Wiring diagrams are variously different opinions....

ICBM

Ideally it should be grounded. It’s best to connect a ground wire to a washer, not to try to solder to the switch body.

darius

Makes sense, but soldering to a washer sound like i need some skilz. Or a special washer?

Funkfingers

I usually do the soldering with the washer removed from the switch. If the washer is electroplated, it may help to abrade a small patch through to the steel beneath. Critically, the solder blob needs to be slim enough not to foul any other washers beneath the pickguard.

darius

Funkfingers said:

Critically, the solder blob needs to be slim enough not to foul any other washers beneath the pickguard.

That’s the problem I’m thinking of. It won’t be a washer when I’ve finished with it!

Funkfingers

Typically, the sequence of items on the switch shaft thread will be;

• Hex nut
• Dress washer
• Pickguard (or control plate)
• "Star" washer
• Plain washer(s) and/or hex nut(s) to achieve correct height relative to the upper surface of the pickguard.

The neatest option is to solder to whatever will be closest to the switch body. Offer up the washer or nut with any excess solder thickness facing the switch body.

ICBM

Funkfingers said:

Typically, the sequence of items on the switch shaft thread will be;

• Hex nut
• Dress washer
• Pickguard (or control plate)
• "Star" washer
• Plain washer(s) and/or hex nut(s) to achieve correct height relative to the upper surface of the pickguard.

The neatest option is to solder to whatever will be closest to the switch body. Offer up the washer or nut with any excess solder thickness facing the switch body.

If you solder to the washer that's directly under the shakeproof 'star' washer, any solder blob won't matter - it will either fit between the teeth of it, or the teeth will bite into it. It won't really matter much even if there isn't one, solder is quite soft and will usually flatten under the pressure of tightening the nut.

LastMantra

You get washers with tags on them for soldering to, or you get ones you can crimp that don't need solder. No idea what they are called? 

darius

Thanks, I'll use that method ^^^ on the star washer

So, some more questions -

How to open up the 10mm hole in the pick guard to a 12mm hole? Tried the one available 12mm drill bit (my neighbour's) on a scrap bit of plastic and it was a messy disaster.

Its a bit late now but I didn't shield the pickup wires from the single coil, white goes to switch, black goes to ground. They're not shielded cable so i figured nothing needed as does google, and i don't have any shield tape. They do now route under the humbucker.

And finally

Does anyone actually know the spec of this single pickup in the Frankie? EVH Fender email has no reply. I'm wiring this up on a rumour that its a real pickup, fully expect it to be a bit shit but actually produce something vaguely noise-like. I see it as channelling my inner Eddie. Mods like this will hurt resale but I got it to use it not sell. Once I have proven my basic wiring skills I will then consider upgrading to a decent one, or maybe one of those Humbucker single coil sized ones like in the Charvel SC1.

ICBM

darius said:

How to open up the 10mm hole in the pick guard to a 12mm hole?

With a hand taper reamer. It's a very useful tool to have for all sorts of guitar jobs - including some you might not expect, like holding a jack in place while you tighten the nut, if you can't easily get at the inside. 12mm or 1/2" is the standard size.

This one looks a good price - it's not the best quality, but will do fine for plastic and wood.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HEAVY-DUTY-TAPERED-REAMER-Drill-Hole-Enlarger-Hand-Clean-Debur-3-12mm-Tool-34125/402351619442

darius

ok - all the wiring done and it works! Neck S pickup is a lot quieter than bridge H but the poles are about 3 miles away from the strings with no adjustment so thats set for now.

However there is now a tiny earth 'click' or 'pop' everytime I touch anything to ground. Small but definitely noticable and not there previously. And its a bit more noisy (interference noisy). So I've obviously worsened the grounding somewhere along the way. Any ideas how to diagnose? Again, I may have not shielded when I should have shielded stuff?

I also had to connect the red humbucker wire to a new cable to extend it to reach the switch. Could this be a problem area?

Every day's a school day!