First carved top : Neck angles - Body Plane angles - How best to ?

PeteC

Hi everyone, 

I thought I'd ask this here rather than on my current build thread in case it helps anyone else in future. 

I am doing my first carved top guitar - using a 1/2" maple cap on an Idigbo body. 
I have some wiring routs to cut before gluing the top to body next. 

My question is what's a good method to use to get the right body plane and neck break angles on the top. 

I'm going to be using a compensated Faber wraparound tailpiece - and on my Junior builds I ended up with a break angle of around 3 - 3.5%. 

This time my neck to body joint is going to be at the 21st fret, and I have been looking at how its done on PRS and Les Pauls.  

There seems to be an angle planed into the body at around 2 degrees where the neck joins and the fretboard runs over the body, and then this angle shallows off to something around 1.5 degrees between the neck pickup and the bridge. 

Is there a good method to use to do this consistently right ? 
Ive just bought an accurate digital angle finder to help me check as I go. 

Any tips much appreciated. 
Cheers

WezV

i use my router thicknesser to do it by wedging up one end of the router rails and checking the angle.  I have seen various hinged versions too.   

Always check the angle on your workbench surface first. 

Even a smart phone will give you a fairly accurate measurement

TTony

As a wise man says - the neck angle isn't what you're trying to achieve.

You're trying to achieve the string height at the bridge - by creating the neck angle!






Use the wedge to adjust the angle of the neck and hence the angle of the back of the heel.

Use a router to cut the angle into the heel - ie you'll take more off the headstock end of the heel than the body end.

You can draw out to scale to calculate/measure the angle required, or you can  trial & error it - start with a shallow angle (1.5deg), push fit the neck and measure the height at the bridge, adjust the jig to add another 0.5deg of angle, cut, push fit & measure, add another 05.deg, etc, until you get the height you want.


And, yes,  I clamped the neck to the jig before routering!

PeteC

Thanks both,   I have used those methods ( and the Bailey hinged jig ) for my heel angle on the Junior builds, but am a bit foxed as to how to approach planing the angles on the body.  i.e. doing the pick up plane correctly and the neck angle planed into the top of the body - if that makes sense ! 

greggreg66

TTony said:

As a wise man says - the neck angle isn't what you're trying to achieve.

You're trying to achieve the string height at the bridge - by creating the neck angle!

What a pretty neck and what a great jig!

PeteC

yes that is a lovely RW neck ! 

WezV

PeteC said:

Thanks both,   I have used those methods ( and the Bailey hinged jig ) for my heel angle on the Junior builds, but am a bit foxed as to how to approach planing the angles on the body.  i.e. doing the pick up plane correctly and the neck angle planed into the top of the body - if that makes sense ! 

Its the same approach, but with a jig the whole body fits in

This is one version
http://mountainwhimsy.com/2012/03/top-carve-2/

PeteC

I think I have it.   Thanks gents.   Is it usual to do the body contours first then route the neck and pick ups planes in afterwards , or vice versa?  

SteveRobinson

Contours first, then the neck plane

PeteC

Thanks Steve 
appreciate the advice gents !! 

Danielsguitars

Get the carve done first because that dictates the neck and pickup plane, just make sure you've got enough angle for whatever bridge you're using, on a Les Paul with an abr 1 it's probably 4 degrees as a guess 

I physically measure with a straight edge on top of the cap at the neck plane and check the height at the bridge

Also the body should be sanded to near finishing before you do a binding channel, I mock the neck up and sand the cutaway along the fretboard side too before doing the binding, hope that helps 

I cut my neck mortice after binding then I do my pickup routes last after the necks glued in, I like to make sure my pickup routes are in line with my neck 

PeteC

Many thanks @Danielsguitars      that’s very helpful.    I’m using a Faber wrap tail and on my other builds the angle has been 3 to 3.5 degrees.  Looking forward to trying my first carve 

Danielsguitars

PeteC said:

Many thanks @Danielsguitars      that’s very helpful.    I’m using a Faber wrap tail and on my other builds the angle has been 3 to 3.5 degrees.  Looking forward to trying my first carve 

I only physically measure I can't just build on measurements same as a wraptail, I have to mock it up with a trapeze

PeteC

Thanks.  Makes perfect sense Darren.   

I think I have my head round it now with all the advice.    I’ll put progress on my build thread

Cheers all.   

WezV

PeteC said:

Many thanks @Danielsguitars      that’s very helpful.    I’m using a Faber wrap tail and on my other builds the angle has been 3 to 3.5 degrees.  Looking forward to trying my first carve 

carve tops do usually have a little more.  3.5 to 4 will give a nice low bridge... Gibson go up to about 5 degrees as standard.    I think i was just under 4 on my last wraparound one

When I started building I used to draw everything out full size from the side profile.   I rarely do it now, but it was a good way to learn how to accommodate different bridges with the relevant neck angle geometry, helped me get it all straight in my head before any wood was cut.

Even so, its always worth mocking it up in the wood, checking measurements repeatedly, and adjusting if necessary before that neck is glued in