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Nux Mighty plug 2 .. great little device. This is the 2nd one I have fixed and this one is actually mine. The fault is it only works intermittently when the jack plug is swiveled to a certain angle. This fault is caused by the wire inside the jack plug shorting out.
So to disassemble the unit unscrew the device and then use a thin plectrum to release these clips in the middle of the unit
Once you have the unit apart remove the silver screws to unbolt the swiveling jack plug and also to remove the circuit board.
Then unsolder one wire of the battery so the unit has no power on the board then unsolder the jack plugs connecting wires. There's a + sign that marks the hot wire connection pad. Then get a thin piece of shielded cable that's quite thin as it needs to get out of the unit through a narrow ish hole that's there now the jack plug is removed. Prep the wire and solder it on the pads.
The wire can go round the bend and exit like this but I've put a bit of heat shrink on mine to stop the cable being pulled out of the unit.
Put a jack plug on the other end and now the unit will work but there's nothing to keep it in place anymore. I wanted mine to be able to clamp to the guitar strap as I use mine live. Then I remembered I had brought a few rolls of soft metal with holes every inch in a charity shop. I have no idea what these are used for, gardening maybe ?
So I cut a piece off, covered it in heat shrink and hot glued it to the body of the Nux. It's not pretty but it works really well and it's nice to have it working again as it's my no 1 practice tool.
Quick DVR repair I did for a CCTV installer. The fault is the unit won't recognize the internal hard drive or any new hard drive. The unit powers up however so the external power supply was considered good and it had 12V on it when it was measured with a meter.
The thing is though, these external power supplies should always be measured with a load. Look what happens when a small load is placed on the power supply via the resistors I'm pressing against the positive and negative connections of the power supply while I'm measuring
The voltage drops to under 10V when loaded with a gentle 33 Ohms. This means the power supply is faulty as it's supposed to maintain the output voltage up to it's rated max current output which is 3 amps at 12V. So I sort out another 12V 3A PSU and all is well again hard drive wise.
I thought this was worth pointing out as many people think a PSU or DC connector is fine if they measure the correct voltage on it. You really need to load it a bit and then measure it. With a lot of electronic items the incoming power is only going to a MOSFET, which is open circuit until the unit is switched on and a voltage is put on the gate of the MOSFET by a logic switch ..Then it sees the load of the device. So the fact the PSU is connected to the device doesn't mean it loaded.
Reassembled it and started it up but it vibrated a bit, so I used the knife held against the fan cage as a runout checkpoint and bent the blades back into alignment. A couple of minutes for the oil to work through and bingo ! A fan that would blow your wig off !
(I also repaired their bedside lamp and their fridge door hinge).
That deserves a wiz and a lol
When something finally breaks beyond reparability, I'll still disassemble the item & save any parts that can be reused.
Everyone seems to find this highly amusing, until something of their's breaks & I can fix it for them.
Then I'm a fucking genius...
I placed the rectangle piece in the boot and marked it against the subframe so I could reliable repetition it if needs be. Then I began marking off every curious shape by placing the pointy end against the boot edge and tracing around the intricate stick.
It's difficult to see but you end up with a lot of pencil marks leading to a very confusing scribble. In hindsight I wished I'd gone a bit simpler with the pattern on the stick.
Having trouble with PostImg.cc so I'll follow up when I get it working. Short story, I was able to translate the scribbles into a drawing on a couple of ply boards. One needed a slight adjustment but they fit beautifully.
I tested the diode plates on the eBay alternator and they were good, so I set about seeing if I could swap them over to mine.
There are two stator armatures, each one being a triple-ended star formation, meaning there are six heavy-duty copper wires connected to the diode plates in three pairs. Unfortunately, these wires are brazed / welded onto the corresponding copper lugs on the diode plates........
So it was out with the Dremel cutting disc......
Leaving the eBay alternator with knackered bearings looking like this....
I did the same to my alternator and swapped the diode plates over. Luckily I had the sense to buy a monster 170W soldering gun years ago, and it saw it's first outing yesterday ! I soldered the armature wires to the lugs and reassembled everything.
The new battery arrived yesterday, so this morning I went out and fitted the repaired alternator and new battery and........
It all caught fire and by the time the fire brigade got here, it was just a smoking shell.
Tomorrow I'm planning on having a quick look at the front brake pads as I think they're fag-paper thin. If they are, I'll change them. Simple job, pretty cheap.
But that's it...... this was just an emergency repair to tide me over until I find a nice CR-V or HR-V.
(don't... just don't..... this is the Community Repair thread.... take your "Emp car purchase abuse" to my "Will you all hate me if...." thread.)
(The lengths you'll go to, to avoid buying a new car
@drofluf .. good work. Next time take some pics in case someone else has the same problem.
I'm very pleased to say I managed it ! Using a combination of engine braking and anticipation at junctions, I got all the way home without touching the brake pedal until I pulled up outside my house.
I spent an hour or so tackling it this afternoon. I was going to photograph it all but I was getting eaten alive by bloody mosquitos. I must have killed about 20 of the buggers and it didn't do much for my temper so I wasn't in the best of moods.
Basically, the caliper needs cleaning out and rebuilding with new seals etc. A rebuild kit is about £15, but a complete new caliper is only £30, so fuck rebuilding it. It'll be an hour of shitty dirty work when for another £15 I can just slap a nice shiny clean one on.
Once I've replaced the front pads and put the new caliper on the rear, it'll be good to go for a while. At least it'll be able to stop !
I've today replaced the document scanner of my HP multi-function printer and apart from one screw securing the side panel and another for the earth connection, everything else just unclipped and pushed back into place.