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Comments
Still most likely a power valve (or 4!)
The schematic I found quickly shows an HT fuse, probably internal.
If it has blown check the cathode resistor, should be 68 Ohms or more IMHO.
ICBM will surely be a long with more sage advice.
Dave.
***If you use a valve amp, you should always have spare valves.***
The fault is quite odd, but if it's a valve it sounds like preamp and not power.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
My VC30-210's still running very nicely on its original TAD tubes (although I did swap V2 with a Russian Electroharmonix, for a nicer, more defined 'Marshally' type crunch tone that I prefer).
But when it comes time for a retube, I will very likely go JJ's because I'm delighted with the results in my Laney Cub12R (the stock Ruby's were 'blah') where I went for the JJ's HRX handtested premium versions. These cost a little more but are well worth it as they are guaranteed low microphonics, low noise, and have been bench tested - the power tubes were a balanced matched set. The JJ's sound 'rich/rounded' with more sparkle and definition than the Ruby's ever had, plus a little more volume too. It's now really nice to play 'straight' with no effects other than the onboard reverb - something I was never happy doing when it had the stock Ruby's.
I would thoroughly recommend spending a little more on the premium hand tested HRX JJ's - you should find that your tone is a little sweeter, and gives you a much quieter amp.
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I know exactly what you mean re JJ's - I put a full set of HRX premium hand-tested in my Laney Cub 12R. HUGE tonal quality difference compared to the stock Chinese Ruby tubes.
If by small gigging you mean smaller clubs, then most definitely - its what the amp was designed for. It's a surprisingly loud amp! I have the combo, but because it has an 8/16 Ohm extension cab out (which cuts out the onboard speaker when used) it means I can also run it to most 2x12 or 4x12 cabs. I have a Vox AD212 cab (birch-ply cab, closed-back, 2x 12" Celestion 'Neodog' speakers - essentially Celestion Century Vintage but rated at 80w each instead of 60w) and through this (16 Ohm, mono), it sounded like a much bigger amp than it is! I also ran it through a Marshall 4x12 cab at a rehearsal (16w mono) and it was unbelievable - huge sound! I think I had the volume at only half and that was with a loud drummer! And of course speaker sensitivity can make a big differene in volume - I swapped a 97dB Rocket 50 for a 100dB Vintage 30 and the amp volume went up noticeably!
The only thing to be mindful of with all single channel amps, is clean head-room - but I had no problems with this. A tip for giving you more headroom here is to run an external EQ or clean boost pedal (in the FX loop might be even better) with the amp.
I just put up a link to a couple of demos I did with my Laney Cub12R in another thread here, where I gave the settings - might help give you an idea of volume level potentials with even a 1x12" combo (albeit with upgraded Vintage 30 speaker but with stock Ruby tubes):
http://thefretboard.co.uk/discussion/22534/laney-cub-12r-or-hayden-lil-mofo-cab-or#latest