Fret levelling...

digitalscream

Having taken delivery of a pre-fretted neck, I decided it was time to learn how to properly level the things, so I ordered the appropriate tools...which arrived today.

Unfortunately, I didn't check the size of the levelling beam. Turns out to be just shy of 6", which seems rather small to me and thus likely to result in uneven frets.

My first question is - am I right in thinking that I'd be better off with something...larger?

WezV

Larger is nicer, but most of the older guides on fretting only use relatively short files or sharpening stones. 

There is no reason you can't get good results from what you have

axisus

I heard that 6" is average

digitalscream

WezV said:

Larger is nicer, but most of the older guides on fretting only use relatively short files or sharpening stones. 

There is no reason you can't get good results from what you have

Remember...I'm coming at this from the perspective of having no skill to begin with.

My main thought is that a longer beam means there's less chance of a lack of skill getting in the way and giving uneven results.

For what it's worth, I've just ordered a 12" beam.

I've also discovered that the area that the locking nut sits on is hollow below the fretboard, meaning it's going to be impossible to screw it in without a lot of filling. I suspect I may end up gluing it.

GSPBASSES

My advice to anybody who is going to do their own fret work is the buy the longest beam you can get.
Ideally one that is in contact with the frets at both ends of the fret board all the time. I would also recommend finding a heave beam, this is so you don’t have to put any down force on the beam, the beam does it for you. 

Winny_Pooh

Buy a long one too, they are not too pricey. I use a long crimson one for overall levelling with self adhesive roll of paper, and a short flat block for doing fall-away from 13th fret or so onward (and taking a lot more off on the 2 frets right at the end).

Jazzthat

Definitely a long piece of something hard ,even and smooth surface . 
Doesn't need to be a 'beam' .
 I used solid aluminium block slightly longer than a fingerboard and it works fantastic .
Solid aluminium means no pressure needed to apply while leveling and ensures spot on results every time .

With long beam you'd have advantage of small and steady movement up and down the board .
Having said that , the one you have bought would be ideal for ' fall away ' .

Doug

https://www.tdpri.com/threads/fret-leveling-yer-tele-101.201556/ ;  Link won't work TDPRI.com Fret Leveling yer tele...... 101.  Ron Kirn suggests the best tool - Granite offcut + methods for the job, my 2p 

crunchman

I've got the Crimson one.  It's nice, but Crimson aren't cheap.  I think I've seen Mark Bailey using a long spirit level with sandpaper on the bottom in one of his YouTube videos.

guitarfishbay

I prefer larger, I tried shorter and it was more difficult and didn’t offer any advantages other than for doing a fall off at the end of the fretboard if you want to do that. Don’t expect your first attempt to be perfect either way, but so long as there’s height in the frets you can try again if it needs another go

PVO_Dave

I've been using the one from a 'friend of the forum' for years now (Wudtone), it's a decent product but could understand why you wouldn't want to buy from him. 

digitalscream

OK, next question - the beam I've bought comes with 120-320 paper, but the tutorials I've seen suggest starting at 400 and moving up through 800, 1200 and 2000 then fret rubbers.

What's the best approach here?

guitarfishbay

I wouldn’t go any finer than 400 to start or you’ll be there all day.

Think of it as a speed limit. The coarser stuff cuts faster but if it’s your first go you would be better with something that cuts a little slower to let you approach it gradually.

You’ll know yourself by feel if 400 isn’t going fast enough, but personally I definitely wouldn’t start with the 120 for your first go. 

I prefer micro mesh cloths to fret rubbers but the theory is the same, just gradually get finer as you go. 

Working out when to change grits takes a bit of experience, on my early attempts I went finer too soon and spent an unnecessarily long time at certain sections... but I was worried about accidentally making one of the frets shorter by over sanding it.

When you do get more confident with it you’ll save a lot of money in the long term and it makes buying used instruments more viable (in cases where there’s mild fret wear on a cheaper guitar)

Jazzthat

I wouldn't personally go under 320 grit on leveling .
You can try 400 as well , but might take longer to level frets. 

For me 400-7000 grit are for polishing after crowning .

WezV

guitarfishbay said:

I prefer micro mesh cloths to fret rubbers but the theory is the same, just gradually get finer as you go. 

I love micromesh for polishing frets

It is worth pointing out the grits are not comparable to normal abrasive. This may affect the grades of paper you use before it.

Micromesh 1500 sits between P600-P800 in normal grades
https://www.sisweb.com/micromesh/conversion.htm


I start with P400--1000, mostly levelling,  then start polishing with micromesh from 1500 to 12000, the 1500 is a slight step back from the P1000, but it helps to be thorough.

SlopeSoarer

Is it possible to get long lengths of finer grades of grit/wet n dry paper? Or do you just butt up to each other on the beam (oo-er... sounds a bit wrong!)?

digitalscream

SlopeSoarer said:

Is it possible to get long lengths of finer grades of grit/wet n dry paper? Or do you just butt up to each other on the beam (oo-er... sounds a bit wrong!)?

That's one of the reasons I've gone for a 12" beam - it's the same length as a sheet of A4 sandpaper.

SlopeSoarer

digitalscream said:

SlopeSoarer said:

Is it possible to get long lengths of finer grades of grit/wet n dry paper? Or do you just butt up to each other on the beam (oo-er... sounds a bit wrong!)?

That's one of the reasons I've gone for a 12" beam - it's the same length as a sheet of A4 sandpaper.

Makes sense.

SteveRobinson

SlopeSoarer said:

Is it possible to get long lengths of finer grades of grit/wet n dry paper? Or do you just butt up to each other on the beam (oo-er... sounds a bit wrong!)?

I buy abrasives on a roll and cut it into strips to fit my sanding beam. I start with P180 btw.

Jazzthat

SteveRobinson said:

SlopeSoarer said:

Is it possible to get long lengths of finer grades of grit/wet n dry paper? Or do you just butt up to each other on the beam (oo-er... sounds a bit wrong!)?

I buy abrasives on a roll and cut it into strips to fit my sanding beam. I start with P180 btw.

@SteveRobinson Are they self-adhesive ? If not , what do you use to glue it ?

SteveRobinson

No, I use double sided tape