Heating not working what to check?

boogieman

drofluf said:

Ok I took the cover off. Which is probably the limit of my technical ability

Not sure where I should be looking for the valves?

It’s a Worcester Greenstar ri. About 5 years old, can’t be more specific as it was fitted by the previous owners. 

There are two fat pipes that come out of the bottom and then loop behind to disappear upstairs. This would suggest 2 valves I think?

The valve won’t be inside the boiler and you shouldn’t really tinker with anything boiler-related anyway. 

Those two pipes leaving the boiler are the flow and return (flow takes the hot water away to the h/w tank and rads, the return brings the cooler water back to the boiler). It doesn’t mean you’ll necessarily have two diverter valves, most systems use a three port valve. Have a look where the two pipes go… that’s where the valve/s will probably be. Could be an airing cupboard or somewhere near the h/w tank. Will look something like this 
https://www.bes.co.uk/motorised-mid-position-valve-3-port-22mm-17391/

there’s a little lever on the side to manually open the valve. With the timer on for heat and the room stat turned up, so it’s calling for heat, push the lever on the valve and hook it up onto it’s retaining position. If the boiler then fires up and the rads get hot then you’ll know it’s a fault at the valve. Like I said earlier it’s usually the synchronous motor inside that fails… they have a hard life. 

drofluf

I found these in the loft space:

The red think could be a pump? But we also have a power shower. 

Or is it something like this?

I realise that’s the hot water tank but would there be another silver box on the heating circuit

ToneControl

drofluf said:

Ok I took the cover off. Which is probably the limit of my technical ability

Not sure where I should be looking for the valves?

It’s a Worcester Greenstar ri. About 5 years old, can’t be more specific as it was fitted by the previous owners. 

There are two fat pipes that come out of the bottom and then loop behind to disappear upstairs. This would suggest 2 valves I think?

I'd say test batteries, make sure the ignition light comes on the boiler when the timer is on for heating, and the thermostat switches on.

Beyond that, if you're not used to doing this sort of thing, my advice is to call a gas plumber.

I have found that getting an annual contract with Worcester Bosch is the most cost effective method, includes yearly service and parts, so keeps everything running efficiently and safely (e.g. they test for Carbon monoxide levels in the flue) and no surprise bills. I'd recommend this even if you had no fault today.

we had used one of those nationwide home cover schemes. When the 3 year old boiler failed, it took them 2 weeks to fix it, after numerous 150 mile round trips and ordering parts for the wrong model, that (as I thought) were not even the faulty ones (it was the gas solenoid, they kept trying to replace the main PCB, and even rewired the mains connection the wrong way!). Eventually sacked them, and the Worcester Bosch guy fixed it with stuff in his van in one visit

Gas is dangerous stuff, and can see you getting convicted for manslaughter if you cause a gas leak. CO or CO2 leak and someone dies

BloodEagle

Check the batteries in the RF unit

exocet

The picture in your loft shows the heating valve (Grey Box). The silver box on pipe leading to hot water tank is your hot water valve. I'd say your heating circuit valve in loft has seized up. The pump (red box) is also in your loft.

drofluf

BloodEagle said:

Check the batteries in the RF unit

Thanks but what’s a RF unit?

boogieman

Ok so you do have separate valves for h/w and rads. The grey one next to the red box (which is your pump) is the heating valve and is either stuck closed or most likely the motor has failed. Push the lever on the side and if it opens the valve and lets hot water through (feel the pipes either side) then the motor (inside the cover) needs replacement. 

drofluf

The valve next to the red box is a Drayton ZA5 which I assume is a more modern version of the one next to the hot water tank?

I couldn’t override it as described for the other type; there’s a black knob on the top that rattles a little but I can’t move. Didn’t want to force it. Can I just change the motor in this type as well?

drofluf

One more thing the pipes are warm (but not hot) either side of the valve, I assume that’s just conduction through the pipe rather than due to how water flow?

boogieman

Yes, you should be able to swap the motor out, from a quick Google it looks similar to the universal motor unit that Screwfix sell. There’s how to guides on YouTube to show how to do it. It looks like the top actuator part (the bit with the electrics in) detaches from the valve base (where the water is), so that should make it easier to work on. 

fastonebaz

You can replace the actuator motor (grey box) independently of the valve in the pipe. Easy to do and cheap.  Basically lift off and undo the wiring.   These actuator motors fail surprisingly often.    

Mellish

@drofluf. I'm tempted to say if you've tried the obvious and no joy, maybe get someone in  

drofluf

Thanks to everyone for their time and help on this. The motor slots in really easily; it took me longer to get to Screwfix than it did to fit it. And we now have heating!

Thanks also from Tilly, the (formerly) chillypuppy

Next question the intonation on my Tele is out. Can anyone suggest a good plumbers’ forum where I might be able to get advice

boogieman

Cool. Or obviously not any more.  Glad it got sorted. You can now bask in the glory of being a central heating god, safe in the knowledge that you’ve probably saved yourself the thick end of a couple of hundred quid on calling out a plumber. 

Great dog btw. 

Mellish

Glad it's sorted. I'll have a go at the intonation for you. Won't cost you too much