It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!
Subscribe to our Patreon, and get image uploads with no ads on the site!
Base theme by DesignModo & ported to Powered by Vanilla by Chris Ireland, modified by the "theFB" team.
Comments
but. It you do go for it… measure the position lots and use a pillar drill for the holes…
My advice is to buy decent wood. Everything else in a kit you can replace if you wish. My current preference is for Guitar Kit Fabrik and Coban but sadly Coban's getting very pricey. On the plus side, Coban's kits generally have pilot holes for the bridge though I have had one terrible experience with them when the neck was badly cut and the bridge mount holes were in the wrong place, Eventually, Coban supplied a different bridge but I had to butcher the pup mount and still the guitar was almost impossible to intonate. Mark at Coban is very helpful but the company refused to accept their kit was a dud.
Finally re the bridge, assuming you don't have pilot holes. My understanding of guitar measurements gives this: Measure nut to 12th fret and set the centre of the saddle adjustment range at that same distance from the 12th fret. If the kit body's been accurately routed the bridge pup cavity should be correctly positioned. (and if none of this appeals why not sell it as a primitive 'art' guitar?
I didn't realise Alegree sold bodies! Hmm now I'm looking at that black double bound tele as a project...
https://www.boobooguitars.co.uk/
too
I got a really nice swamp ash Tele there for £60