1Q22 ffs build something - ThePrettyDamned

ThePrettyDamned

I have committed to a kit and I'm terribly excited for it. More to follow.

Need to decide on a few things. It's routed for two p90s but I'm torn between a pair of @Alegree smooth p90 old timers, the 52 old timers or a p90 neck and mini humbucker bridge. Quite fancy that, but not sure whether you can get good, affordable p90s. 

Paint wise, I'm going to be trialling some Montana water based sprays, so if you liked my last thread of boring test pieces, you're in for a treat. I don't want to work with solvents anymore, it's a pain to dispose of and smells weird. 

The exception to this will be the neck - I'll use the same polyurethane I already have, rubbed on with rags.

Lastly, it'll have vintage style tuners, a fixed gotoh bridge, two volume, one master tone and a 3 way toggle. Exciting stuff. 

ThePrettyDamned

Well, I've paid for it now so I may as well post a pic. Thanks @GSPBASSES - for those who don't know, his work is absolutely brilliant. This will be my... 6th kit from him (I have a problem!).



My plan with this is to grain fill and spray in a solid colour using water based finishes. So the process I have in mind (and will test) is:

- sand body to 600 grit 
- raise grain and sand again 
- grain fill - not sure what with, but would like it to be water based. As it's going to sit under a solid finish I'm wondering whether I might try a regular water based wood filler, like polyfilla or toupret.
- spray white as a primer using mtn water based spray. Probably 2-3 coats.
- spray colour, but with a couple of vertical stripes masked off on the front. Again, 2-3 coats.
- top coat with water based acrylic spray. 

Torn between a pair of cream p90s or a p90 and mini hum. 3 way toggle, two volume and master tone. Not sure what knobs I'll go for, but thinking I might go for some white ones. 

Neck will be hand rubbed polyurethane. No more painting it on, just extremely thin coats - I found this much easier on the neck on my last build, and love how it feels.

Lastly, gotoh sd90 tuners with nice, big cream plastic buttons or maybe some kind of nice big metal one, not the more common small metal one.

The inside of the f-hole will be masked off to stay white - hopefully giving the illusion of it being bound. I think that'll look smart.

Anyway, I will need to learn how to spray with rattle cans. My backup plan is to try milk paints - if I did that, I'd go for an olive drab I think.

This will probably take me well into q2! But the les paul was my highlight of a terrible 2021 so I'm chuffed to have another project on the go. 

TTony

ThePrettyDamned said:

Well, I've paid for it now so I may as well post a pic. Thanks @GSPBASSES - for those who don't know, his work is absolutely brilliant. This will be my... 6th kit from him (I have a problem!).

6?

6??

6???

Thats more than me!

(Though not all of mine have come directly from Graham, and I do have more necks from him than complete guitars!)


I’ve not found many mini-HBs around of late.  Iron Gear used to do a decent one, but seems to be n/a now.  

ThePrettyDamned

TTony said:

ThePrettyDamned said:

Well, I've paid for it now so I may as well post a pic. Thanks @GSPBASSES - for those who don't know, his work is absolutely brilliant. This will be my... 6th kit from him (I have a problem!).

6?

6??

6???

Thats more than me!

(Though not all of mine have come directly from Graham, and I do have more necks from him than complete guitars!)


I’ve not found many mini-HBs around of late.  Iron Gear used to do a decent one, but seems to be n/a now.  

Technically 5.5 as my strat has his neck, but I got the body from booboo guitars. 

But yes, I basically have a problem. Once the Gibson has gone, all of my guitars will be self-build. 

I don't like saying "build" as it implies I do woodworking when I don't... But partscastered?

Wilkinson have a mini humbucker with alnico 5 magnet, but not sure... Some of their stuff is good value, some is a bit... Not so great. I'm definitely going for the alegree old timer p90s, though. 

TTony

ThePrettyDamned said:

I don't like saying "build" as it implies I do woodworking when I don't... But partscastered?

Selected, configured, assembled, finished and set-up.

Sarge

If you're going for a solid colour finish, you could consider superglue as a grainfiller.
I did this recently on an ash Vantage body. 
I first tried eggwhite, apparently an old violin makers trick, but after 6 or 7 applications it was apparent another 6 or 7 would be required, ain't nobody got time for that! 
Superglue wiped on with kitchen roll, medium viscosity for extra working time, got the job done in 2 passes. Yes it stinks so breathing apparatus is essential, but it is so effective and quick I'll look to be doing this again, soooo much easier than the rustins malarkey. 

ThePrettyDamned

Sarge said:

If you're going for a solid colour finish, you could consider superglue as a grainfiller.
I did this recently on an ash Vantage body. 
I first tried eggwhite, apparently an old violin makers trick, but after 6 or 7 applications it was apparent another 6 or 7 would be required, ain't nobody got time for that! 
Superglue wiped on with kitchen roll, medium viscosity for extra working time, got the job done in 2 passes. Yes it stinks so breathing apparatus is essential, but it is so effective and quick I'll look to be doing this again, soooo much easier than the rustins malarkey. 

I didn't mind the rustins stuff to be honest, but you have to work quickly in small areas. It dried before I scraped it off, so it was a lot of work to sand. It did leave me with a nice finish, though.

This time I'm going to test bog standard powder polyfilla. Not sure it'll work, but that's what test pieces are for... I suspect it'll take 2 applications as I'll probably want to add a tiny bit more water than recommended, so I'm expecting a bit of shrinking. We'll see. 

davros

I've had success with Dartfords thixotropic grain filler. It becomes more liquid as you stir it, you wipe it on, then I have been wiping the excess off again with white spirit on a rag. No residue to sand off at all.

Cano

Damn, that kit looks lovely. I'm wishing I'd got one now  

paulnb57

Cano said:

Damn, that kit looks lovely. I'm wishing I'd got one now  

Chances are the GSP kit would be triple the price of the one you got (Ive had several from GSP, and bloody good quality) but the one you have looks saveable, there are often issues when building from parts, solving them is part of the fun, a great learning experience, dont be downhearted….

ThePrettyDamned

paulnb57 said:

Cano said:

Damn, that kit looks lovely. I'm wishing I'd got one now  

Chances are the GSP kit would be triple the price of the one you got (Ive had several from GSP, and bloody good quality) but the one you have looks saveable, there are often issues when building from parts, solving them is part of the fun, a great learning experience, dont be downhearted….

Yes, this was a b-stock so probably a lot less than you might think, but it's more expensive than a Chinese kit and doesn't come with pickups, pots, cap, jack etc - so it's a bigger investment. I'm not skilled enough to fix a cheapo kit, but I still get an amazing guitar at the end  

Cano

paulnb57 said:

Cano said:

Damn, that kit looks lovely. I'm wishing I'd got one now  

Chances are the GSP kit would be triple the price of the one you got (Ive had several from GSP, and bloody good quality) but the one you have looks saveable, there are often issues when building from parts, solving them is part of the fun, a great learning experience, dont be downhearted….

Not disheartened, just appreciating the quality of what I can see on this GSP kit and struggling with TheFretboard Forum emoji selections.  I'm sure mine is going to end up fine, just time and patience required to get it right.

ps, you'd be amazed. As the only LP DC 2xP90 kit I could find out there, the Chinese one I got (just body & neck, nothing more) wasn't that cheap.

ThePrettyDamned

It arrived safe and sound. @GSPBASSES you are such a legend. This thing looks amazing. Quickly dry-fit the bits and it all looks tops.

 

First jobs will be drilling for the strap pins, then replacing the screw I damaged for the bridge - my mistake, I left the wrong screwdriver bit on and it chewed it up...

Then I'll copper line the cavities. Should I line the p90 routes? I'm sure I don't need to with humbuckers, but I think single coils maybe it's best to shield... 

The it'll be grain fill, seal, spray and polish. The neck will be hand rubbed polyurethane. 

It'll take a while to finish this. Firstly it's cold for spraying. Secondly, I need electronics and they're not cheap! So I need someone to buy my Gibson...

But plenty to get along with in the mean time. I need to test polyfilla as a grain filler. I think it'll work but might shrink a bit, so expecting two coats. It's water based and cleans up nicely though. 

Roland

ThePrettyDamned said:

... @GSPBASSES you are such a legend.... 

Well, you are talking about one of the world’s best.

ThePrettyDamned said:

... Should I line the p90 routes?.... 

You can, but loosely twisted wires should be OK. @ICBM might remember how many twists it needs.

TTony

Yeah, s'pose it looks OK.

WezV

personally, I don't ever shield pickup cavities.  I've known pickup makers tell people to remove it as the first step if they say their new pickups are not  up to scratch.  I know others do use it and are happy enough.

it can change the tone as it affects the magnetic field, the same way a humbucker with or without its cover will sound a bit different.   both fine, but different, and can be allowed for in the wind.

you have to weigh up whether that is enough of a negative change to put up with the noise or not

ThePrettyDamned

WezV said:

personally, I don't ever shield pickup cavities.  I've known pickup makers tell people to remove it as the first step if they say their new pickups are not  up to scratch.  I know others do use it and are happy enough.

it can change the tone as it affects the magnetic field, the same way a humbucker with or without its cover will sound a bit different.   both fine, but different, and can be allowed for in the wind.

you have to weigh up whether that is enough of a negative change to put up with the noise or not

Yes I've been advised not to for my humbucker guitars, and in the past I've shielded the strat pickguard (for example) but didn't fully shield the routes. 

Interesting! Well the p90s I get will be reverse wound hopefully (as in, together the cancel hum) so there should always be a relatively quiet solution. Thanks for confirming my thoughts!

@roland @TTony this is why I have so many of his kits. They're just always so... Good. Every little thing is just so precise, so much more so than I ever manage with my hand tools and a ruler! 

Since the strat build, I've not even had a hint of gas for a strat. Likewise the tele. 

I'm really looking forward to this one though. The sprays arrived today so I'll be testing at the weekend (I don't have ash to test on, so I'll use scrap mahogany to grain fill, prime, colour and clear). Water based and non toxic should make it a much more simple, pleasant experience

Could even dye the body underneath so, as the finish wears, it reveals a dyed burst. Not sure I want more work though...

I'll also be soldering my les paul build at the weekend so that should finally be completed. 

paulnb57

I never shield anything! Admittedly I dont gig, but its not an issue at home

ThePrettyDamned

Just thought, definitely won't stain anything. Just keeping it simple.

Need to work out the f-hole. Thinking I'll stuff some rags into the body to stop drips, and spray the inside edge white, then mask for colour coat. I could try painting on some clear, then masking so I can scrape back for a clean line after the colour coat. 

Regarding the grain fill, I've ordered some polycell fine surface to see how that goes, keeping in theme with a clean, water-based clean up. I've got some regular polycell but I think it might be a bit too grainy - maybe fine for the first pass to fill most of the way, but I don't think it will give a smooth enough surface for a gloss finish. Tests will come. 

Bridge screws arrived, and I managed to get the right ones, just in a slightly more industrial colour and pozi drive. They seem slightly better quality than the stock screws, but to be honest the stock ones are usually fine... I'm just an idiot. 

Tuners will be ordered on payday - going for a set of gotoh sd90 or klusons, but hoping to get nice big, decorative buttons on them that are chrome finished to match the bridge. 

Knobs - I'm thinking witch hats, but colour options are limited. I'd want a nice, bright white. 

Anything else? I don't think so. Jack socket I might go for a white plastic les paul one I have going spare, but it's off-white cream sadly... or I might go for a chrome square. We'll see.

I think that's about it for my planning for now. Should be getting some tests done on Sunday, weather permitting, but it might be a bit too cold. 

ThePrettyDamned

So, no tests yesterday but I did start soldering my other build. Got most of the way there, just need to connect the pickups up.

Reminded me that I shouldn't solder without a third hand... Lost mine. A friend is lending me theirs.

Polycell fine filler arrived and, testing inside the neck pocket, result is promising. Easy to apply - just put some on and rub it in to the grain. I'll probably use a squeegee to remove most excess and a damp cloth for the rest. Feels nice and smooth though, and I really like the lack of solvents. In addition, it dries white - something that means it will look cool as the finish wears, revealing a white primer and filler beneath.

Regarding pickups, @Alegree was courteous enough to provide advice. I think I'm going for an old timer sharp P90 set, or maybe the 1952 set. 

I don't think I can quite stretch to hand wired pickups for this, but if I manage to scrape some extra cash I might go for one of the high output sets, like the gale force set, which sounds like a great place to start with a P90 guitar.

I'm also planning on tuning this one low - aside from needing to file the nut slots, is there anything that'll make this a bad idea? It's a fixed bridge, and p90s should have enough brightness and output for heavy strings. I'm thinking C standard or maybe B standard, with 12-60 gauge or 13-62 gauge strings. Does anyone have a take on this before I bork a perfectly good nut? 

ThePrettyDamned

Just in time!



Not done yet but looks like it'll be useful for me.