Looking for someone who can make a wooden finger board for an aluminium neck

BusheySi

Can anyone recommend someone who might be able to do that?  I have a 'shell' aluminium neck, a telecaster body ... but no finger board.  I'm struggling to find someone who can make the fingerboard (with block in lays) and  attach it to the alu neck - any suggestions?  

BusheySi

The pic should help make more sense:

BillDL

I'm wondering whether you might be able to source a ready made and fretted fingerboard that could be stuck onto the neck.  Whether that would be any cheaper than commissioning a luthier to make you a custom one is something I don't know, but there are some very good ready-fretted boards around.

I realise this is a silly question, because I'm sure you would have shown the original fretboard if you had it, but do you have the original fretboard or any photos of it?

A couple of questions might help a luthier to make a rough evaluation, or to decide on the feasibility of the job.

Do you know what make and model of guitar the neck came from?

What was the scale length of the guitar that the neck was originally fitted to?  I assume that the saddles will probably be in roughly the right position on the bridge from when it had a Telecaster type neck, so the nut to 1st string saddle measurement in inches would likely give a good idea if it matches Fender scale length at 25.5".  If the neck was from a guitar with a scale length other than "Fender" scale and you want a fretboard made to Fender scale, the bridge might have to be repositioned.

Lay some other guitars on or alongside it in such a way so you can see whether those screw holes into the aluminium neck line up with the frets or fall between frets, for example under a position dot.  I'm wondering how the original board was secured to the neck other than just being glued, and preempting how a luthier would perhaps use screws before inserting block inlays or through fret slots before insering frets.  What do the glue remnants feel like?  Rock hard like opoxy or slightly rubbery?

ICBM

You could probably buy a scrap guitar or neck and use the fingerboard fairly easily as long as the board is intact and the right scale length and width.

Removing a fingerboard without damaging it isn't that difficult if the *neck* is already scrap, you can cut it away from the back and plane off the last bits.

BusheySi

BillDL said:

I'm wondering whether you might be able to source a ready made and fretted fingerboard that could be stuck onto the neck.  Whether that would be any cheaper than commissioning a luthier to make you a custom one is something I don't know, but there are some very good ready-fretted boards around.

I realise this is a silly question, because I'm sure you would have shown the original fretboard if you had it, but do you have the original fretboard or any photos of it?

A couple of questions might help a luthier to make a rough evaluation, or to decide on the feasibility of the job.

Do you know what make and model of guitar the neck came from?

What was the scale length of the guitar that the neck was originally fitted to?  I assume that the saddles will probably be in roughly the right position on the bridge from when it had a Telecaster type neck, so the nut to 1st string saddle measurement in inches would likely give a good idea if it matches Fender scale length at 25.5".  If the neck was from a guitar with a scale length other than "Fender" scale and you want a fretboard made to Fender scale, the bridge might have to be repositioned.

Lay some other guitars on or alongside it in such a way so you can see whether those screw holes into the aluminium neck line up with the frets or fall between frets, for example under a position dot.  I'm wondering how the original board was secured to the neck other than just being glued, and preempting how a luthier would perhaps use screws before inserting block inlays or through fret slots before insering frets.  What do the glue remnants feel like?  Rock hard like opoxy or slightly rubbery?

It was originally a Fender Jim Root Telecaster.  The neck was removed and I had a custom made aluminium neck made, which came with the worst finger board you've ever seen.  A local luthier removed it, with the intention of replacing it, but then said he couldn't it (which was totally fine as it had to be removed anyway).

It's a 25.5 scale, and the neck was custom made for the guitar, so there shouldn't be any issues beyond fitting the finger board. The glue remnants are rock hard - it's not that it didn't stick, it's that it was a bad quality fingerboard with even worse fret inlays. 

I'm happy to get it 'custom' done, but struggling to find anyone that will take it on!  

BusheySi

ICBM said:

You could probably buy a scrap guitar or neck and use the fingerboard fairly easily as long as the board is intact and the right scale length and width.

Removing a fingerboard without damaging it isn't that difficult if the *neck* is already scrap, you can cut it away from the back and plane off the last bits.

Thanks - but a lot of £££ went into the guitar, so i'm keen to get someone 'proper' to do it

ICBM

BusheySi said:

Thanks - but a lot of £££ went into the guitar, so i'm keen to get someone 'proper' to do it

In that case, if he hasn't seen this yet, @WezV might be interested.

BillDL

There are some very talented luthiers on here who, I am quite sure, would be able to make a fretboard to your specifications, for example type of wood, type of fret wire and gauge, choice of inlay shape and material, consistent or graduated radius, binding or not, etc.

I AM NOT a luthier, but I do know that I have aquired enough experience through mistakes and successes to buy a pre-slotted ebony fretboard in the correct scale, radius it properly, insert frets, and fit it to the neck, but I struggle with routing the rebates for block inlays and wouldn't attempt it on an expensive piece of ebony or rosewood.  Although you can buy pre-slotted and pre-fretted fingerboards that are very good quality, you will find that the ones with block inlays will generally be Gibson scale ones with Gibson scale radius and chunkier fretwire than on Fender type guitars.

Hopefully one of the luthiers here will be able to make you one from scratch.

WezV

What sort of fretboard are you after?  Normal wood, or something like richlite etc.

The big question is why did the guy who was originally doing it change his mind?

BusheySi

WezV said:

What sort of fretboard are you after?  Normal wood, or something like richlite etc.

The big question is why did the guy who was originally doing it change his mind?

Ideally ebony.

Re the big question:  the original work was very good on the metal work part, but bad on the wood part.  When it arrived the quality was really bad - the original maker offered to do it again, but I didn't want to.  My local guitar tech was starting doing some basic luthery work - but he says it was too much too soon for him.  He's a great guitar tech though!  

BillDL

Just out of curiosity, but perhaps also while thinking about blending the fretboard edges to the neck, is the back of the neck plain polished aluminium, anodised aluminium (i.e. electronically "dyed") or has it been lacquered?

BusheySi

BillDL said:

Just out of curiosity, but perhaps also while thinking about blending the fretboard edges to the neck, is the back of the neck plain polished aluminium, anodised aluminium (i.e. electronically "dyed") or has it been lacquered?

it's anodised

russpm

Brian Eastwood in the North West

WezV

My main concern with ebony would be the inevitable shrinkage.  Might take 10 to 20 years, but sooner or later the join between board and metal will become quite prominent.

A dimensionally stable modern alternative may work better in the long term.  Whether its richlite (paper and resin) or NuAge Ebony/rocklite (wood and resin) etc etc.  They should all be mote resistant to shrinkage.

Aluminium inlays would be a fun touch, and cheaper than pearl.

BusheySi

WezV said:

My main concern with ebony would be the inevitable shrinkage.  Might take 10 to 20 years, but sooner or later the join between board and metal will become quite prominent.

A dimensionally stable modern alternative may work better in the long term.  Whether its richlite (paper and resin) or NuAge Ebony/rocklite (wood and resin) etc etc.  They should all be mote resistant to shrinkage.

Aluminium inlays would be a fun touch, and cheaper than pearl.

TBH I'm relatively relaxed on the material as long as it's black.  Aluminium inlays would be absolutely epic!!  It's that something you could do?  

BillDL

@WezV I have PMd you

WezV

Messaged back.  Sorry, I was recovering after drastically underestimating the strength of the little woman giving me a back massage yesterday  

BusheySi said:

TBH I'm relatively relaxed on the material as long as it's black.  Aluminium inlays would be absolutely epic!!  It's that something you could do?  

Send me a message and we can discuss..... although i should warn you that i am very slow at the moment