Fender Player Series vs 2007 American series trem posts distance and neck tilt device.

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OK I have a 2021 Fender Player Series Strat,I am able to admit that someone made a bit of a mess with the refret..
The neck ended up with missing wood at sides of the frets because the wood totally splintered when 
removing the frets apparently..It does kind of intonate OK,,but you have to be very gentle like you would with a scalloped neck..
I can play it,but it's not ideal..

I have the Aforementioned 2007 American Series Strat,,which is a heavy beast and I actually start getting pains etc..
So I thought about using the body from the Player Series....
I have questions though..
The Player Series has no neck tilt device..
The Neck tilt device is in actual use at the minute on the American series Strat..
Now is the neck pocket cut a bit deeper to accommodate usage the device or is the neck itself at the pocket cut a bit shallower,,?
Or would I need a shim anyway if I didn't have the neck tilt..?
In other words is some wood removed somewhere to give you more fine adjustment.?..
I realise I could also use a shim..Is the neck tilt even worth bothering with..?
Is it easy to remove and fit to another body..?
Would I need to remove wood apart from the recess for it..??

A lot of questions for one question in a way,but these are all the questions coming up in my head..
Always best to look before you leap..

Secondly the trems look very similar on both guitars in many ways apart from the American Series has offset alloy block saddles 
 and The Player Series has bent steel saddles..
Does  the American Series and Player series use the same posts with the same ( Knife Edge Bearing ?) set up..
Is it the same slot width on the posts for the trem bearings..?
Can they be a direct drop in part for each other..

Probably a bit obscure questions I know..
Thank you for any Help..


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Comments

  • PhilMPhilM Frets: 280
    edited March 2022
    Trem posts are identical in all aspects, so no issue there. The US bridge will be better quality, and my personal preference is for block saddles so if it was me I'd use the US one.

    For the microtilt bit see here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=731Rv7SIvgI No extra wood is removed from the neck pocket to make this system work - apart from the extra hole and flush-mounting the T-nut.

    It is just a fancy way of shimming the neck though, which may or may not be required during the setup process. It doesn't need to be adjusted once complete.

    I almost don't want to ask about the refret on a 2021 guitar...
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  • FunkfingersFunkfingers Frets: 15262
    What he said.

    One pivot post size and spacing fits all - including several other brands of aftermarket replacement vibrato.

    e.g. With its bespoke pivot screws, the old Kahler 2500 Traditional fulcrum vibrato bridge sits perfectly on the Fender pivots and does not foul on the edges of the routed cavity.
    You say, atom bomb. I say, tin of corned beef.
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  • PhilMPhilM Frets: 280
    What he said.

    One pivot post size and spacing fits all - including several other brands of aftermarket replacement vibrato.

    e.g. With its bespoke pivot screws, the old Kahler 2500 Traditional fulcrum vibrato bridge sits perfectly on the Fender pivots and does not foul on the edges of the routed cavity.
    Gotoh 510 works perfectly too :)
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  • KevSKevS Frets: 628
    edited March 2022
    Thanks guys.....Yeah!! The refret..
    I have been in a kind of Semi denial myself about it..
    I tried to tell myself it wasn't as bad as I thought..
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  • ICBMICBM Frets: 74475
    It does sound like you'd be better off building one good guitar from the parts you like of both of them.

    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

    "Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein

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