What to do when dog runs away?

drofluf

My 8 month old cocker has poor recall, I’m working on it and she was doing really well on a long lead so I decided to let her off. Big mistake; she bolted, squeezed through the fence from the field into the woods. 

I followed her there but eventually found her close to where she’d left me. So would I have been better staying put or giving chase?

TTony

You're never going to catch a dog that's running away from you.

Better to give the dog some reason to come back to you.

No idea what you've tried to improve the recall (treats, toys, other rewards?), but get that nailed and completely reliable before you let her off again.

You've got to be the most exciting thing in the dog's world, so they've got no incentive to run away.

TTBZ

Get some high value treats and practice recall with those. They need a reason (that's more rewarding to them than chasing whatever scent they've found) to keep coming back when you call.

digitalscream

I read a theory that dogs are, at their core, motivated by fun. Essentially, they'll try to stop things that aren't fun, and will do anything in their power to continue things that are fun.

Fun things: food, games, chasing things, and...being chased. By chasing her, you're only increasing the "fun" level. Do what you can to keep her in sight, but don't give her the impression that you're giving chase.

As Tony says, you basically have to be more fun than the game of chase/be chased is. Quite often, that means building up the impression in her that it doesn't matter what she's doing, she can always trust that being next to you is going to involve more fun. Doing that means rewards for coming back to you (no matter whether it's a few yards when out on a walk, or from across the room at home), every time. Those rewards don't have to be treats, dogs are often motivated by being fussed as well; basically, anything she'll regard as positive (obviously varies from dog to dog).

Also, if you're going to let her off...try leaving the long lead attached to her harness, just let go of it. That way you don't need to completely catch up with her to regain control in the event that it doesn't work.

One game we play with our Akita is for two of us to stand about 50 yards apart, increasing to 100 yards or so. One of us lets her go, and the other shouts and jumps as though we're trying to play a game with her. That effectively becomes the recall.

Finally...one other thing that I heard worked on a husky, of all things, that had bolted down the street - "SIT!". Amazing.

drofluf

Thanks; I’d been applying the advice above and had a tub full of liver which was working on the long lead. 

I know the theory of it, just that the dog hasn’t read the same book. 

Not planning to let her off until her recall has improved and I know she can be safe but was hoping for peoples’ thoughts on what to do if it happens again. 

Shrews

Has she been spayed? 

Obviously, 8 months she's still a pup and will still need significant training. I'd walk her a lot, tire her out, and then let her off the lead in a secure field where she can run about but is at less risk of getting 'lost'. There may be 'safe' fields in your area, especially designed for this (safe dog play areas), there certainly is in these parts. But I would say 8 months is a little old to be let off the lead for the first time but nothing you can do about that now.

It's just the old routine of recall and treats. A hungry, tired dog will likely come back more so than a dog who just wants to get out there and play, especially a pup of 8 months.

In your situation, I would've stayed put and rewarded her when she returned. I don't think I'd have even put her back on the lead, unless you were desperate to get home. Just let her get used to being off the lead and where you will be when she wants some treats. But just in a safer place, not in woods where she can lose her bearings and you may not be too familiar with either.

And of course, if she hasn't been spayed, she may go 'looking' for it if she's in season. Hopefully for you, she hasn't been a naughty girl with Rocky the Rotty whilst you've been hunting for her!

Shrews

Here's an example:

http://www.sunnymead.co.uk/freedomfield.html

TTony

Maybe liver has got boring?  She always knows what she's going to get if she comes back when on the line.

Vary it, different treats.

Also, have a favourite toy or two in your pocket.  When she's away on the long line, start playing with the toy by yourself (yes, you might look daft) without calling her back, make lots of noise (you really enjoy playing with that toy of here) and let her decide to come back because she wants the toy. 

Then go OTT with playing with the toy with her (not just a quick 5 secs - give it plenty of time).

She's never sure exactly what she's going to get when she comes back, but she'll learn that it always fun.

andy1839

It sounds mad but it does work in extremis, and there's nothing else working.

Scream the dog's name as loud as you can (doesn't even have to be the dog's name but make it loud and urgent) and run in the opposite direction away from your dog. 
Then suddenly stop and seem really interested in something imaginary on the ground.
Nearly all dogs will be so curious they'll come and see what you're so interested in.

I've had to use it twice with our Akita when she's snapped her lead and decided she'd rather be a free spirit forest fairy than be on the end of dad's string.

PolarityMan

Let another dog off the lead to catch the first one. 

digitalscream

andy1839 said:

I've had to use it twice with our Akita when she's snapped her lead and decided she'd rather be a free spirit forest fairy than be on the end of dad's string.

Our Coco did that once. Weirdly, she didn't run off, but rather decided to bunny and bounce around me with a bonkers, "Hey! Look what I did! Can't catch me..." look on her face.

That was so much fun that, on almost every walk since, she's decided to do exactly the same thing but with the lead attached, almost inevitably resulting in me being on the floor.

She never does it with the wife.

I see this as proof that dogs do have a sense of humour, and hers is "prankster" level.

Jalapeno

Thought you were supposed to run after it, swear a lot and shout FENTON at the top of your voice !

andy1839

digitalscream said:

andy1839 said:

I've had to use it twice with our Akita when she's snapped her lead and decided she'd rather be a free spirit forest fairy than be on the end of dad's string.

Our Coco did that once. Weirdly, she didn't run off, but rather decided to bunny and bounce around me with a bonkers, "Hey! Look what I did! Can't catch me..." look on her face.

That was so much fun that, on almost every walk since, she's decided to do exactly the same thing but with the lead attached, almost inevitably resulting in me being on the floor.

She never does it with the wife.

I see this as proof that dogs do have a sense of humour, and hers is "prankster" level.

They have the daftest bouncy zoomies. Can't help but laugh at them! 

 Yeah they know exactly what they're doing.

drofluf

Jalapeno said:

Thought you were supposed to run after it, swear a lot and shout FENTON at the top of your voice !

I never said her name was Fenton

drofluf

PolarityMan said:

Let another dog off the lead to catch the first one. 

Sadly the other dog is equally dumb, albeit with recall, and I’d probably never see either of them again. 

TimmyO

They’re all different - but a general thing I found that kind of worked is to play on the fact they don’t want to end up on their own - on the long rope I’d (every 20 or 30 paces) say the dogs name or some other command and as they turn to look at you sharply change direction - the dog will probably go “wtf where’s he going?” and follow - keep doing this and the dog develops the habit to keep an eye on you.

i had 2 dogs in a row that I could make stop on a dime with a short sharp whistle - they’d look over and then start running to me or go in whatever direction I’d then gone. 

But yes to what someone said - if you CAN get their attention after they’ve bolted turn and run the OTHER way - if you’re lucky (or it’s not just bonkers) it’ll run back toward you. 

TimmyO

Also
once you DO get some basic recall, develop the habit of regularly calling it back for a little pat or a fuss then let it go again - don’t have recall be “you’re going back on the lead and fun time is over”

ricky50

Train to a high frequency dog whistle accompanied with a treat.  The sound travels long distances and is much better than a shout which just freaks them out.

bertie

Shrews said:

Has she been spayed? 

I'd walk her a lot, tire her out

WRONG never over walk a pup, 5 minutes per month of life - joints are still developing and over stressing these can cause SEVERE arthritic problems.

 continue with the treat/reward on the leash. Be consistent, always use the same words/commands/praise. Its very easy for a pup in training to be confused. Make sure praise is the educator not discipline.

Perhaps walk her with another dog that as excellent recall,  so will learn from it.  Pups tend to mimic other dogs

Make sure you mentally stimulate as well has physically.  Spaniels are intelligent - they need challenges

Keep going as has been said  - they're all different, and have different "catalysts"   perhaps a toy rather than "treats"   Winnie is not food orientated at all - we had to use a favourite toy, not food.  

Keep at it,  Persevere  -  

TimmyO

ricky50 said:

Train to a high frequency dog whistle accompanied with a treat.  The sound travels long distances and is much better than a shout which just freaks them out.

I’ve used clicking the clip on the lead - that carries really well to doggy ears - with Billy (Labradoodle) he’ll come back when he hears that - basically Pavlovian at this point 

sev112

There is a difference between a dog that has run off for “fun” and a dog that has bolted. The latter won’t be interested in you looking at something interesting on the ground, they are pointing the opposite direction and heading off at a rate of knots!

at their young age they are more likely to do this, if they get ing used to being off lead, but something spooks them.

which means you need to know what the likely route they are heading is, as when you are chasing and haven’t got a viewpoint on which way they’ve gone you need to know where to head.  In that situation they seems to (seems sensible really) head back in the direction of scent that they already know,  so “out and back” walking / running routes are better than a route which goes out one way but comes back a different way which has no scent