Can you buy a decent 70s acoustic for 300-400 quid?

What's Hot
Looking for an acoustic with a bit of character from the 70s - well if you can't afford an electric from the decade you were born get an acoustic ;)

What should I look out for and what should I avoid.

It will only be used at home...

0reaction image LOL 0reaction image Wow! 0reaction image Wisdom
«13

Comments

  • bertiebertie Frets: 13566
    edited June 2022
    Yamaha 

    Tama

    "some" of the early Washburns were OK 

    Levin perhaps


    not sure you'll find any "all solid"  for that tho
    just because you don't, doesn't mean you can't
     just because you do, doesn't mean you should.
    0reaction image LOL 0reaction image Wow! 0reaction image Wisdom
  • lovestrat74lovestrat74 Frets: 2512
    bertie said:
    Yamaha 

    Tama

    "some" of the early Washburns were OK 

    Levin perhaps


    not sure you'll find any "all solid"  for that tho
    I am aware of the love for yamaha, but what models? There seems to be lots and also made in Japan vs Taiwan..
    0reaction image LOL 0reaction image Wow! 0reaction image Wisdom
  • bertiebertie Frets: 13566
    edited June 2022
    ok,  if you want more specifics,   what about preference for model/type   ?   ie  Dread ? OM ?   etc    back then Dreads were much much more easy to come by
    just because you don't, doesn't mean you can't
     just because you do, doesn't mean you should.
    0reaction image LOL 0reaction image Wow! 0reaction image Wisdom
  • lovestrat74lovestrat74 Frets: 2512
    bertie said:
    ok,  if you want more specifics,   what about preference for model/type   ?   ie  Dread ? OM ?   etc    back then Dreads were much much more easy to come by
    No bigger than a dread and no 12th fret neck joins. Other than that I am pretty open. This will be just a noodler to have around the house when I get that unplugged urge.
    0reaction image LOL 0reaction image Wow! 0reaction image Wisdom
  • MellishMellish Frets: 945
    Epiphone  Dove? Though a 70s one may take some finding :) 
    0reaction image LOL 0reaction image Wow! 0reaction image Wisdom
  • Andy79Andy79 Frets: 888
    @lovestrat74 I have a 1976 Yamaha FG-335 in the classifieds. If it floats your boat at all drop me a message. For a long standing fretboarder like yourself I can do it for the cost of shipping and packing 
    0reaction image LOL 4reaction image Wow! 0reaction image Wisdom
  • MellishMellish Frets: 945
    ^^^ now *there's* a bargain! :) 
    0reaction image LOL 0reaction image Wow! 0reaction image Wisdom
  • Andy79Andy79 Frets: 888
    In my opinion regarding the Taiwan vs Japan thing. Absolutely no difference in build or sound. It’s just a thing that has happened over the years. Japan is better blah blah
    Infact I’m pretty sure they took tooling and materials from Japan to Taiwan. Same same same   
    0reaction image LOL 0reaction image Wow! 1reaction image Wisdom
  • crunchmancrunchman Frets: 11446
    As well as Yamaha you have brands like Kimbara and Daion that you might come across.  Some of them can be quite good.
    0reaction image LOL 0reaction image Wow! 0reaction image Wisdom
  • Andy79Andy79 Frets: 888
    crunchman said:
    As well as Yamaha you have brands like Kimbara and Daion that you might come across.  Some of them can be quite good.
    Daion L999 yes please……..


    0reaction image LOL 1reaction image Wow! 0reaction image Wisdom
  • ICBMICBM Frets: 72242
    Eko.

    Really.

    No, they do not sound like a Martin or a Taylor, but they have *character*, they do sound 'good' in an old-plywood-guitar way, and most importantly they are both nearly indestructible and very easily adjusted to give a good playable action because most models have both an adjustable bridge and a bolt-on neck which can be shimmed. The only common issue to look out for is cracking of the bridge along the pin hole line - it's rarely a structural problem but can make the pins tend to pop out, and is relatively easy to fix.

    Old Yamaha FGs can also sound very nice, but often have neck angle and top bellying problems which mean that getting a low action without shaving the bridge to an extreme extent can be difficult - and resetting the neck is even harder due to the type of glue used.

    Many other Japanese brands also sound pretty decent if you're not expecting a detailed, responsive modern sound but just want something warm and characterful.

    All of these should be well within your budget.

    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

    "Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein

    0reaction image LOL 0reaction image Wow! 5reaction image Wisdom
  • StuckfastStuckfast Frets: 2410
    Some of the Yairi guitars are absolutely excellent, but they are not all that common and I don't know whether you're likely to find one in your budget.
    0reaction image LOL 0reaction image Wow! 0reaction image Wisdom
  • TheMadMickTheMadMick Frets: 240
    Have you seen the Tanglewood dread for sale here?


    The reviews seem OK as does the sound on YouTube. It's only £105. Nowt about carriage. Could be worth a punt?

    0reaction image LOL 0reaction image Wow! 0reaction image Wisdom
  • bertiebertie Frets: 13566
    . Could be worth a punt?

    new in 2000 ? 
    just because you don't, doesn't mean you can't
     just because you do, doesn't mean you should.
    0reaction image LOL 0reaction image Wow! 0reaction image Wisdom
  • lovestrat74lovestrat74 Frets: 2512
    Should have said that Andy and I have done a gentlemanly trade for his 76 Yam
    0reaction image LOL 0reaction image Wow! 1reaction image Wisdom
  • bertiebertie Frets: 13566
    Should have said that Andy and I have done a gentlemanly trade for his 76 Yam

    just because you don't, doesn't mean you can't
     just because you do, doesn't mean you should.
    0reaction image LOL 0reaction image Wow! 0reaction image Wisdom
  • Andy79Andy79 Frets: 888
    Should have said that Andy and I have done a gentlemanly trade for his 76 Yam
    We will keep this going. It will be interesting to have your thoughts on weather it actually is a decent 70s guitar……
    0reaction image LOL 0reaction image Wow! 0reaction image Wisdom
  • lovestrat74lovestrat74 Frets: 2512
    Andy79 said:
    Should have said that Andy and I have done a gentlemanly trade for his 76 Yam
    We will keep this going. It will be interesting to have your thoughts on weather it actually is a decent 70s guitar……
    Well I be no expert but I hope it doesn't lead me down a whole new rabbit hole  :o
    0reaction image LOL 0reaction image Wow! 0reaction image Wisdom
  • DavidRDavidR Frets: 735
    edited June 2022
    ICBM said:
    Eko.

    Really.

    No, they do not sound like a Martin or a Taylor, but they have *character*, they do sound 'good' in an old-plywood-guitar way, and most importantly they are both nearly indestructible and very easily adjusted to give a good playable action because most models have both an adjustable bridge and a bolt-on neck which can be shimmed. The only common issue to look out for is cracking of the bridge along the pin hole line - it's rarely a structural problem but can make the pins tend to pop out, and is relatively easy to fix.

    Old Yamaha FGs can also sound very nice, but often have neck angle and top bellying problems which mean that getting a low action without shaving the bridge to an extreme extent can be difficult - and resetting the neck is even harder due to the type of glue used.

    Many other Japanese brands also sound pretty decent if you're not expecting a detailed, responsive modern sound but just want something warm and characterful.

    All of these should be well within your budget.
    The reason for the bellying of the top in old FG's is that the tops were relatively thin. This was a deliberate feature of the build. Later FG's corrected it. But in a 1970's FG (I had one back then), that would have given you a dreadnought which sounded nice, was cheaper than US imports and was well built. Move on 50+ years and some (not all) FG's have sort of failed. The 'weak' tops have bellied outward, as ICBM has said, due to string pressure and as a result the bridges have risen significantly above the level of the fingerboard. No amount of fiddling with the action (deepening nut slot depth, lowering bridge saddle, altering neck relief) will correct this and a rebuild is expensive as he said.

    You should easily find an old FG on which the top hasn't bellied though. The world is full of old FG's. They have been one of the best-selling acoustics ever, and were/are beloved of students and older players alike.

    You have to inspect an old FG before you buy it. Just looking is usually enough. Eyeball the top and the action at the 12th fret.  Look down the fingerboard from the head end so the perspective flattens. From there you will easily see the action diverging along the fretboard, the top bellying - and also any twisting of the fingerboard, less common. Play it too of course! A luthier would lay a long straight edge along the top to demonstrate the bellying but you don't usually have to do that. I have deliberately never bought an old FG because I think I would be romanticising their worth and because new FG's are still tremendous value. I have an FG830 bought in 2021 (£349 currently) and an FG5 bought in 2020 (£1,140). Both good.

    Still wish I'd never sold my old FG though, knowing what I have learnt since my 'yoof'.  

    Happy hunting lovestrat74  :-)


    0reaction image LOL 0reaction image Wow! 1reaction image Wisdom
  • bertiebertie Frets: 13566
    didnt some old Eko's have a bellied back ?  
    just because you don't, doesn't mean you can't
     just because you do, doesn't mean you should.
    0reaction image LOL 0reaction image Wow! 0reaction image Wisdom
Sign In or Register to comment.