How do I get a finish like this?

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I like the look and feel of the Telecaster I stripped over the summer but fancy some colour in my next project. Can I achieve something similar to the one below with stain and oil?

I so what stain should I use? Some seem to be water based and others spirit/solvent based - yes I know water is also a solvent :). Any specific recommendations? Planning a red finish. 


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  • WezVWezV Frets: 17500
    Not easily on Ash as it's hard to direct stain.

    There are some good vids on hand stained bursts, but it is really hard to get that smooth transition of colour on a wood like ash
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  • droflufdrofluf Frets: 4211
    @WezV sorry didn't look closely enough at the picture - I'm not going to try for a burst but an even colouring. Body will be the one from this kit https://guitarkitfabric.co.uk/diy-guitar-kit-rickenbacker-12string-160-en.html so mahogany and maple.

    Perhaps this is a better example - obviously I'm not expecting such a strong grain


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  • WezVWezV Frets: 17500
    That is easier, but still a few things to look out for.

    You can do a waterbased stain but be aware it will raise the grain.  You can minimize this by purposely raising the grain and re-sanding a couple of times a day or two before staining.  it's worth doing this whatever finish you use.  Just wpe the wood with a damp, not dripping, cloth.  Let dry then sand with your final grit again

    Also be aware that stain will drink onto the end grain more than  the face of the guitar.  this can look quite obvious on a lighter colour like that.  You can minimize it by pre-wetting the ends before staining.  same applies if water or spirit based.

    For the top coats you want an oil that builds on the surface and doesn't need to be rubbed in, as that would lift the stain.

    In terms of products, I like Chestnut spirit stains, others get good results with the crimson guitar ones.  top coats would be tru-oil, wiped or brushed on or something from Osmo.  Avoid lighter oils like danish or boiled linseed as these need excess buffing off, and you will lose some colour
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  • RolandRoland Frets: 9129
    drofluf said:
    I'm not expecting such a strong grain

    @WezV Has that grain been emphasised by a coat of grey before staining with blue?
    Tree recycler, and guitarist with  https://www.undercoversband.com/.
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  • droflufdrofluf Frets: 4211
    Thanks @WezV that's incredibly helpful as always!
    Trading feedback thread:https://www.thefretboard.co.uk/discussion/172761/drofluf

    Sporky: "Drofluf is a reverse vampire, who always appears in mirrors."
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  • WezVWezV Frets: 17500
    Roland said:
    drofluf said:
    I'm not expecting such a strong grain

    @WezV Has that grain been emphasised by a coat of grey before staining with blue?
    I think it's more likely it has had some kind of grey grainfiller added after the blue finish has been sealed in, or it could just be a reflection of the gloss sunk into the grain
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  • droflufdrofluf Frets: 4211
    @Roland the two images were just examples I found online of the sort of thing I’m trying to achieve. 
    Trading feedback thread:https://www.thefretboard.co.uk/discussion/172761/drofluf

    Sporky: "Drofluf is a reverse vampire, who always appears in mirrors."
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  • thermionicthermionic Frets: 10019
    That Strat looks like Wudtone with the silver highlights coat added after the base coat.
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  • TTonyTTony Frets: 28444
    As Wez mentioned - you'll also need some sort of finish over the stain.

    I've used oil for years, and that works well for a matt-to-semi-shiny finish.  For a proper glossy finish I've recently adopted the Liberon Easy French polish product, which has been easy to apply, and get a much shinier finish.


    Having trouble posting images here?  This might help.
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  • Tele-scopicTele-scopic Frets: 65
    edited February 2023
    Not quite the same, but I saw a translucent, weathered, driftwood-effect for wood made by Rust-oleum, so I thought I would give it a go.  The colour I bought was called Blue Haze, matt finish and it was branded Weathered Wood.  I applied a couple of light coats, wiping off the bulk of it each time and then used an oil over the top (I can't remember the oil now).  The tele body was a cheap thing from E-Bay and I think it was basswood, but don't quote me.  I couldn't quite capture the real colour of the paint - I've had to mess about with photo - but this gives the general idea:



    Edit - I've just checked and I can't see a red ...
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  • FlipFlip Frets: 68
    I looked at GKF's Rickenbacker kit and decided against it because it seemed to me that the veneer didn't extend into the bridge pocket. If I'm wrong I'd be pleased to know because an old rocker friend used to play one and I'd like to surprise him.
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  • droflufdrofluf Frets: 4211
    Flip said:
    I looked at GKF's Rickenbacker kit and decided against it because it seemed to me that the veneer didn't extend into the bridge pocket. If I'm wrong I'd be pleased to know because an old rocker friend used to play one and I'd like to surprise him.
    I’ll do my best to remember to check for you.  However as it’s extremely unlikely that I’ll get through this project without further questions please feel free to nudge me. 
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  • SteveRobinsonSteveRobinson Frets: 7343
    tFB Trader
    In all seriousness, with that kit you'd be much better going for a solid colour (such as black) that will hide the different woods which will take on stain differently.
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  • WezVWezV Frets: 17500
    I hadn't seen the kit link.

    I agree with Steve. You will get very different colours on these woods, plus I wouldn't be surprised if there was a glue smear or two that don't take the stain at all.  
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  • droflufdrofluf Frets: 4211
    Thanks - if I stain it and don't like the result is that going to make it harder to put a solid colour on afterwards?

    And any recomendations for the best way to do solid colour bearing in mind spraying is not really an option 
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  • droflufdrofluf Frets: 4211
    Ignore the bit about not spraying, what’s the best way to get a solid colour? 

    But a brush on would be easier :)
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    Sporky: "Drofluf is a reverse vampire, who always appears in mirrors."
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  • FlipFlip Frets: 68
    WezV said:
    I hadn't seen the kit link.

    I agree with Steve. You will get very different colours on these woods, plus I wouldn't be surprised if there was a glue smear or two that don't take the stain at all.  

    This was the problem I encountered and mentioned in my previous post. The difficulty for me was that it's difficult to see the glue smears until you put on the stain. My recommendation is to avoid veneered bodies entirely. Sorry, but I did apologise if I dampened any plans or hopes. Sadly, I've been there.
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  • droflufdrofluf Frets: 4211
    Flip said:
    I looked at GKF's Rickenbacker kit and decided against it because it seemed to me that the veneer didn't extend into the bridge pocket. If I'm wrong I'd be pleased to know because an old rocker friend used to play one and I'd like to surprise him.
    @Flip kit arrived today and you’re correct the veneer doesn’t extend all the way back. 

    I’ve decided to go for a stain/oil finish as I have experience with oil and don’t want to add spraying to my learning curve. @WezV @SteveRobinson thanks for your thoughts I understand your thinking; it may look a little odd but it’ll at least be unique!
    Trading feedback thread:https://www.thefretboard.co.uk/discussion/172761/drofluf

    Sporky: "Drofluf is a reverse vampire, who always appears in mirrors."
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  • WezVWezV Frets: 17500
    If spraying is out I would at least be prepared to go darker with the stain if the light colour doesn't work out.


    The normal advice is to test on scrap, but that is hard when kit building.   Try to test under a scratchplate area if possible.


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  • droflufdrofluf Frets: 4211
    Thanks- that’s good advice. 
    Trading feedback thread:https://www.thefretboard.co.uk/discussion/172761/drofluf

    Sporky: "Drofluf is a reverse vampire, who always appears in mirrors."
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