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There are some good vids on hand stained bursts, but it is really hard to get that smooth transition of colour on a wood like ash
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Perhaps this is a better example - obviously I'm not expecting such a strong grain
You can do a waterbased stain but be aware it will raise the grain. You can minimize this by purposely raising the grain and re-sanding a couple of times a day or two before staining. it's worth doing this whatever finish you use. Just wpe the wood with a damp, not dripping, cloth. Let dry then sand with your final grit again
Also be aware that stain will drink onto the end grain more than the face of the guitar. this can look quite obvious on a lighter colour like that. You can minimize it by pre-wetting the ends before staining. same applies if water or spirit based.
For the top coats you want an oil that builds on the surface and doesn't need to be rubbed in, as that would lift the stain.
In terms of products, I like Chestnut spirit stains, others get good results with the crimson guitar ones. top coats would be tru-oil, wiped or brushed on or something from Osmo. Avoid lighter oils like danish or boiled linseed as these need excess buffing off, and you will lose some colour
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I've used oil for years, and that works well for a matt-to-semi-shiny finish. For a proper glossy finish I've recently adopted the Liberon Easy French polish product, which has been easy to apply, and get a much shinier finish.
Edit - I've just checked and I can't see a red ...
I agree with Steve. You will get very different colours on these woods, plus I wouldn't be surprised if there was a glue smear or two that don't take the stain at all.
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And any recomendations for the best way to do solid colour bearing in mind spraying is not really an option
This was the problem I encountered and mentioned in my previous post. The difficulty for me was that it's difficult to see the glue smears until you put on the stain. My recommendation is to avoid veneered bodies entirely. Sorry, but I did apologise if I dampened any plans or hopes. Sadly, I've been there.
The normal advice is to test on scrap, but that is hard when kit building. Try to test under a scratchplate area if possible.
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