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Adam
The other thing i would absolutely recommend are books by Melvyn Hiscock, and Cumpiano/Natelson. The Cumpiano is acoustic based, but the info is absolutely applicable to electrics and the writing style is a rare treat.
I went pretty cheap for this first build - I fully accept that I may duff up a blank or two so I went with poplar/tulipwood for the body and a plain maple neck with rosewood board (I do have a pre-slotted board too in case my initial attempt fails, but figured I would have a go) I'm not worried about the grain etc on the body blank - it's going to be painted.
I also picked these up on eBay. They seemed to be the most comprehensive templates I could see on there, marked with centrelines etc. Hopefully they should work ok. My first task will be making some copies of the templates. That should help me get comfortable with the saw and router etc.
My first observation is that the slot on the template for the truss rod seems to be approximately 350mm long. Most of the rods I can see for electric online are around 440/460mm. I haven't bought one yet as I wasn't sure which I needed. Am I to assume that the slot in the template provides the end of the slot and you would extend it one way or another depending whether you want the adjustment at head or heel and. based on what length your particular rod is?
Curious that the truss rod slot is so short. It has to extend to either the headstock or the heel. Try asking the seller?
I did assume that was the case with the truss rod. I can only assume it's to give the option to do either. I think I will be planning on doing a headstock adjustment. I will send the seller a message and see what they say
the traditional fender rod needs a curved channel and drilling for access with special jigs. Its a shorter back route because the ends are done with the drilling jig I think the Hiscock book covers one way of doing this on the tele style build, but it is unnecessary if going with a separate board and modern 2-way rod
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Don't try to take too much off in one pass with the router, I've seen some people going for huge passes and ending up with nasty tear out routers biting and doing what they want. Quick way to ruin a piece. Best to draw your outline on your wood and cut as close to the line as you can and then take small nibbles with the router. Never more than half the diameter of the bit if you can help it. I fancy doing a video on the subject on my YT at some point, unless one already exists.
And use masking tape and superglue to stick your templates down - Piece of tape on the template and the body (other template if you make more) and glue them together. Works a treat and simple to remove when you're done.
And remember that centre line. If you can keep it accurate it makes lining things up much easier.
Sorry for the essay, just catching up lol
Your life will improve when you realise it’s better to be alone than chase people who do not really care about you. Saying YES to happiness means learning to say NO to things and people that stress you out.
https://www.facebook.com/grahame.pollard.39/
(Made in UK, eBay is his sales channel)
Gone fairly conservative for the first build. Hardware mostly from Northwest Guitars, with some Nitro ordered from @SteveRobinson and a fortyniner/honky tonk angel pickup set from @OilCityPickups. I've also got fretwire and MOP dots from David Dyke. Only other thing was a control plate with slanted switch from (I think) axesrus.
I also plumped for the O'Brien electric guitar course to give me a detailed process to follow (thanks for the recommendation @Kalimna ). Watching through it ahead of getting started but it seems well presented and very detailed.