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I’m not adverse to a bit of soldering… I did make a basic fuzz pedal a while back… but I’m not proficient! I wouldn’t like to work (and potentially eff-up the amp itself)
Wouldn’t the volume pot idea stop me using one channel or the other? Mind you, I’m effectively down to one channel now because I can’t drive channel 2 to natural overdrive on its own at that volume pot position.
The Harley Benton one isn’t bad either, if you would prefer a bought-in solution.
(*The reason they’re called 100W is historic, but they’re only really suitable for up to about a 20-25W guitar amp.)
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
I may as well explain the historic reason! (Dave will know this.) It’s because they were designed as tone controls for old-fashioned “hi-fi” systems - they were used as passive treble attenuators in the speaker cabinets, and rated for the power of the amp being used. But hi-fi signals only contain an average of about half the rated clean power of the amp at most, whereas an overdriven guitar amp can put out up to double it - and anyway the treble frequencies contain less than the full power of the signal. So about a 4 or 5 to 1 difference is a good safety margin, as you don’t want to risk blowing the L-Pad and leaving the amp with no load.
I actually have an old 1950s “hi-fi” cabinet like that, although the treble (and midrange - it’s 3-way, very sophisticated for the time!) attenuation is done with rotary switches and fixed resistors, rather than L-Pads.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
When I bought my Artisan 30 about 15 years ago, Dave (ecc83) talked me through building one.
It's scruffy but works. The volume control is wired backwards lol and I never got around to changing it.
The resistors were very much over speced even for a 30 so will be great for what you need.
You may want to just use the components and start again but if you want it you can have it for the price of postage.
Unless you could have used a different email address?
The one I have was started tubeman the a couple of numbers (don't want to paste your email address here)
If it would help I can send you some pictures of that might help to reverse engineer it?
Edit. It was Feb 2011 so don't feel bad that you don't remember
The screws in the top are because @ecc83 suggested that I used a metal box and screw the big resistors to it as a heatsink.
The wiring is very scruffy but works - but hey it was 15 years ago and I could do a lot better now
As I already mentioned the pot is wired backwards and I never got around to fixing it.
Simple circuit but worked very well on my A30.
It will shortly be winging its way @DCS222 and hopefully he will have some fun with it too.
Maybe you had a rethink before giving me the drawing as I'm certain there was no transformer on there.
If there was then I just got lucky building something without it that worked