Anyone here gig a DSL40CR? If so ...

Snags

... do you find your footswitch jack is "quite warm" when removed at the end of the gig, after you've been running it at a healthy level (channel volumes maxed, masters moderately high) for a few hours?

Not red hot ouch-ouch-ouch, but definitely "Ooh, that's really quite warm verging on hot".

It's something I've only recently noticed, but also until recently I'd mostly only used the amp for practice, so wasn't packing up at the end of a session. So not sure if it's a design feature or signs of a potential issue. I'm assuming the former, as the thing has just been to a local, respected, amp shop for a new switch and a general check over, and they gave it a clean bill of health, but ... paranoia kicks in!

Cols

Generally I find the footswitch and FX loop send/returns are warm after a few hours of gigging.  I’m only running with channel volumes around 6/10 and master on 2/10 though.

randella

My band folded before I bought my 402, so I've not had chance to use it in anger. I'm not sure about the 40, I think it has a smaller chassis but I'd be surprised if they used different boards.

On mine, the jacks are flown out on to a daughterboard that's mounted very close to the main board and the output valve bases. There'll be a bit of heat there, plus from the screen grid resistors nearby.

If it's bothering you, maybe you could get your guy to check it out with that specific concern in mind?

ecc83

People are often quite surprised at how hot valve amps actually run!

The "resting" power drawn by a valve amp will be just about the same as when you are driving the bits off it, even for a fixed biased amp. Cathode biased OP stages actually run theoretically cooler when driven!

Bottom line, all the bits will get warm and the closer the  bits are to the OP stage, the warmer they will get. A good rule of thumb (ha!) is that if you cannot bear a finger on a panel or part for more than 2 seconds or so* the amp MIGHT be running too hot. But as I say...Valves do!

*This assumes you have 'man's skin' and not that of a baby girl!

Dave.

Snags

Thanks all. Despite being a bear of little brain I'm aware that valve amps get ouchy out when running, and that's the nature of the beast. The actual jack on the footswitch lead getting noticably warm and into the lower margins of hot is a new experience though, so I figured I'd ask the question.

relic245

Snags said:

... do you find your footswitch jack is "quite warm" when removed at the end of the gig, after you've been running it at a healthy level (channel volumes maxed, masters moderately high) for a few hours?

Not red hot ouch-ouch-ouch, but definitely "Ooh, that's really quite warm verging on hot".

It's something I've only recently noticed, but also until recently I'd mostly only used the amp for practice, so wasn't packing up at the end of a session. So not sure if it's a design feature or signs of a potential issue. I'm assuming the former, as the thing has just been to a local, respected, amp shop for a new switch and a general check over, and they gave it a clean bill of health, but ... paranoia kicks in!

I don't use the footswitch so can't comment but I wish I could play more gigs where the channel volume is dimed and then the master up a bit. 

Such a glorious sound when you can turn it up a bit!

Snags

@relic245 it's probably the smallest venue I've played, too, and I was told I wasn't loud enough ...

Voxman

It's just a natural transfer of heat from the hot valves that goes through the amp chassis.  

fastonebaz

I've gigged with mine for years now and never noticed the any rear Jack's getting hot but... my tear down approach is

Turn off the amp
Pull out all the cables and let them fall to the floor
Move the amp and cab extension out of the way
Pack up pedalboard
Carefully Coil up all my cables

It could be by the time I get to them they've all cooled down, or they don't get that warm.

I'll check at next gig.

Stratavarious

Yep.. it gets warm as any tube amp does.  If I get into a 3rd hour set at full tilt, I do find my DSL gets fuzzier and spongier too.. I assume heat stressed to the limit.   

You should expect the loop and footswitch sockets/plugs to be warm from chassis conduction after a full set in a warm venue.  Metal plugs like Neutriks will absorb and hold a lot of heat.

Make sure air can get around the amp and vent on the back.

Snags

@fastonebaz Yeah, I kill the amp as soon as we're done, but haven't been pulling the footswitch cable. I might just start doing that, makes sense.