WezV: Offset archtop #2

WezV

I made a Languendoc inspired archtop a couple of years ago.  Now its time to repeat that, this time with humbuckers and the help of a CNC

Modelling an offset carve inside and out has been pretty traumatic, but I think im just about there after a couple of attempts at different styles of carve

This was the first one, but the carve was a bit too subtle, more like a pressed top look



So I had to do something similar to the carved top strats im still in the process of finishing off, but this time I need to do it with different planes to support the neck angle... after much headscratching and swearing, it's just about there.


I've not fully modelled the neck on this.  I'm thinking of using the CNC to cut the neck lams and make templates, but probably not carve the whole neck.. we will see.


It won't be this colour, that is just to show the carves better than a wood effect... although it does look nice.

WezV

Version #1 for reference

TTony

What thickness are you aiming for on the top?

I've wondered about that sort of challenge myself!

WezV

It will be 1/4" carved inside and out... but i will likely be using an acoustic back with radius of 20' or similar on the other side rather than a fully carved back 

TTony

I'll be interested to see how that works out.

Might have to try some test projects myself ...

PhilKing

I think it looks great (but then again I asked for it, so I should!).

Winny_Pooh

Hell yeah!

Winny_Pooh

25' scale? 

WezV

25.5" with 24 frets.

DartmoorHedgehog

Winny_Pooh said:

25' scale? 

How long are your arms?!

Winny_Pooh

DartmoorHedgehog said:

Winny_Pooh said:

25' scale? 

How long are your arms?!

As long as my stories

WezV

Slower progress on this but I've cut the mold, a body templates, and the neck lams today.  I might build a couple of these with different woods though 

PhilKing

What woods are you thinking of for the top and back?   The mahogany looks great for the neck.

WezV

I think flamed maple back, sides and top for one, possibly walnut back and sides with spruce top for another

WezV

Finally getting around to starting these after a couple of slow months in the workshop

I have European Maple/Sycamore direct from the Carpathian mountains, now acclimatised and ready to use.  I have a couple of sets of spruce wedges from the same region for the carved tops. 

2 backs and a lot of side/binding material.

Wet with alcohol for the pic..  now i need to get that thickness sander working well to take them down the last .5mm

PhilKing

That wood looks great Wez

WezV

I have some similar maple for at least one neck too, so will do you one with a 3 piece  flamed maple neck, jet black ebony board,  and use the mahogany above  and some streaky ebony on the other. 

This maple is pale enough it should take a strong colour well

PhilKing

That sounds incredible.   Would you do a contrasting mahogany center piece on the neck, like the one I already have?

WezV

Yeah, i can do.  Probably with some dark veneer between too.

I've got 6 sets of sides from the 2 full size acoustic sets, plus the back panels are oversized, so lots of spare material for binding, matching headplates etc.

WezV

I knocked up a quick glueing jig for the plates



Wood is rarely a perfect rectangle though, so added a tapered shim to align the centers.  I could have made it more adjustable  but shims will achieve the same result


These bars help keep it flat during glue up.  The glue bead shows pressure is good so I can now clamp the second bar down.

 
Then the final bar gets added to ensure the joint is level.

TTony

WezV said:

I knocked up a quick glueing jig for the plates

Love the detail and thought that goes into "a quick glueing jig!  Look at those lovely shaped levers on the side.

I did something similar, but with a bit less design thought and a bit more "knocking up" - just used wedges on either side of the glued pieces to ensure the joint had enough and equal pressure on it.  I put a small V shaped cut out in the base plate to collect excess glue.  Looks like you've used some greaseproof paper instead - which is a much better idea (saves having to align the joint over the V when clamping).