ES-335 build

davros

Ah, the old masking tape and superglue trick. Use it ALL the time.

You can see the masking tape holding the top to a big chunk of 18mm MDF.

I have normal and thick masking tape for different holding strength.

DartmoorHedgehog

Ah OK, so you superglue the masking tape onto the template then use the sticky side to stick to the "good" wood.

Nearest I've done to that is holding a fretboard still with double sided tape when cutting the fret slots.

davros

Ah no, you stick one piece of masking tape to the template, another to the body, and superglue the non-sticky sides together. 

davros

I prefer it to double sided tape as it has better sideways strength and is easier to remove

DartmoorHedgehog

Cool - I'll give that a try next time I need a stopping-flat-wooden-things-moving-about solution.  When I've done fretboards with double-sided tape they do tend to creep a bit if you don't provide a bit of finger backup while cutting - definitely not up to router shenanigans.

davros

Yeah, I found the same with double sided, masking tape is rock solid side to side, making it perfect for templates.

PeteC

A nice big piece of granite worktop with the masking tape and super glue method will hold absolutely anything rock solid for planing, routing etc.   

Really looking forward to watching your build progress @davros ;- thinking of doing a semi or archtop for the next build for myself.     Got a commision to build first though - so doing all the planning for a semi while thats goong on and re-reading Benedettos book every other evening!  

Sporky

The crepe-paper double-sided tape is really good. Huge strength but peels off easily when you're done.

Usually sold as golf grip tape here, I think. 

davros

First carve done. Will refine a little when I've done the other one. It has a little recurve, which 335s don't have, and the horn carve is deeper than a 335 normally is. I can always flatten it out a bit, but I think i like it.

Now to do the whole thing a second time for the top/back.

WezV

That looks good.  I like the grain from being carved from solid wood rather than pressed veneer

PeteC

That looks really good.   Are you using the drill press method to thickness the plate?  

davros

I most certainly will be, drill press and angle grinder! The centre 4 inches will be left solid, like the spruce block Gibson adds to their pressed tops.

stickyfiddle

This is gorgeous stuff! 

davros

A little progress today, 2 carves largely finished, and a template made for the chambers. I'll begin with using these to start hollowing out the top and back to around 6mm.

Another job for tomorrow is to make a thickness gauge, just a U shape of wood really, with a pin and a dial gauge to the open bit. Dial gauge was a tenner from Amazon, and should be good for up to 10mm thickness.

The template is thickened around the horns, as that's where the strap button will go, and around the jack hole (it will be side mounted), although I'm probably going to get rid of that as it isn't needed and could foul the pots. The centre block will be hollowed out to reduce weight a little more and lend a slightly more hollow sound, while remaining rigid and hopefully feedback resistant.

gretschthumper

Those look really good ... admirable work

davros

Mini project of the day. Quick half hour project to make a thickness gauge.

Offcut from the maple top, 10 quid gauge, a couple of random bolts and it works well enough. Looks like I have some more to go to get to the target 6mm.

9

MikeP

You checked it with a good digital caliper? How close is it? Been meaning to make one. For the archtop I've been meaning to make. For a while...

davros

Its not very easy to test with a digital caliper, but its within 0.1 to 0.2mm. Tried it with a few drill bits and its within 0.1mm as long as you dont squeeze it.

More than accurate enough for this application 

MikeP

You're making two? Who gets the other one?

MikeP

Oh that was quick reply thanks