Its a 2001 era I believe, piezo bridged import. Been keeping my eye out for what seems like around 10 years now for one to come up. Usually when they do, they sell quick.
I was, and maybe am still in two minds.. so any input from the wise here would be much appreciated!
I'm not sure if its a complete dog or not.
The bad in order of fucked-ness.
1. Neck has slightly more relief on the High e side.. so maybe a slight twist the opposite way to what I have experienced before.
2. Truss rod wheel very hard to turn.
3. Bridge is as low as it can go, same for the saddles yet the action is over 2mm both high and low e, way too high. (Nut height can be lowered yes, but probably not by that much to make a huge difference)
4. Nut/string alignment. - easyish fix though I think.
The good in no specific order:
1. It all 'works', piezo bridge included, trem arm is present.
2. Cosmetically its good, only one deep scratch, no real dents or chips.
3. Frets are in great order, rosewood board is nice, its light weight and from a brief test, sounds good.
Other observations that arent too concerning and likely be sorted easily.
1. Bit fret buzzy
2. Has had electronics work.
3. Some weird felt stuck under the treble side of the bridge..
4. Stock strap pins literally pulled out of the body.
As I mentioned in the other thread about the nut..
Richtone kindly offered to have a look to see if it can be popped off and re glued more central, but upon inspection were reluctant as it is glued in there good and they didnt want to do damage. Fair enough.
So I think with a new nut properly installed and filed, this should hopefully sort out the string alignment down the neck.
As ICBM mentioned, and tbh in my experience also, there is buggar all movement in the neck socket so can't aid the alignment much there.
The nut slots are also a bit high across all strings so will need attention anyway.
That stuff though, I'm not too worried about.
Now, onto the rest of it..
Popped the neck off and tried some wd-40, and with pliers I managed to turn it. It seems to function, but even after wd40 its bloody tight to turn.
Also noted the 'Magic, the gathering' neck shim..
Interesting as with a moderate action, around 1.75mm both sides, there were buzz which I felt like was coming from the last frets.. so I removed the shim.
I noted the controls, one knob was silver, not stock.
It is supposed to be the Piezo volume I believe, but controls magnetic pickups volume instead, with one of the other black knobs doing volume for piezo. No issue, just been switched around, which makes sense.
The silver knob is there because it is a new pot, and the stock Parker rubber knob wouldnt fit the bigger shaft.
Comments
Anyway, the frets are actually good, I just polished them and cleaned the board but it wasnt too bad.
, but as I had a set of locking hipshots laying about and as the neck was off, I installed them for ease of restringing.
I'm willing to spend some money if its all fixable and results in a playable guitar.
I'd be interested to know what you guys think.. whether the potential is there or if its likely to be throwing money after bad.
I can't put a regular one in or id have to bypass the piezo I think. I think it's the jack that's the issue, it all seems to run through the piezo first so you can't use the regular pickups without going through that board which needs the special jack? I'm not sure. It all just stopped working mid gig last year and I've not been able to work it out.
A shop shouldn't be sending that out IMO... My local charges about £50 for a nut change.
The twist in the neck will be from the reaction to the truss rod - with the adjuster at the body end, excess friction at the adjuster results in a counterclockwise twist when seen from the body end, which is the opposite of what you get with a headstock-end adjuster (and the opposite of what you want). I would remove the neck, remove the adjuster nut, leave it untensioned somewhere warm, and see if it will settle down after a few days. If it will, lubricate the adjuster, tension the rod back up, and make the last movement of the adjuster an *undo* (ie overtighten it slightly then back off) which should avoid locking in the twist again.
From memory the replaced pot is the magnetic pickup volume, as it is now - the one closest to the bridge is the piezo volume and the lower one is the tone - but I could possibly be wrong, I haven't played one for ages. That's a real stroke of luck finding the missing knob - they're quite hard to come by otherwise. You will just need to find the right type of pot to fit it.
A "proper" shim is unnecessary - the best is just a more neatly cut piece of cardboard
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
Haha I thought the rattling was just the 9v battery but yeah, stroke of luck finding the knob there.
The photos are taken from a bit of a distance that makes it look a lot better condition than it seems to be in yours as well.
The fourth terminal is used as the battery switch since it’s always grounded via the plug sleeve, even when using a stereo cable.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
But the sound of the piezo blended with the magnetic pickups was fantastic for me so I did struggle on with it for a while. I've still got the P38 but maybe I should upgrade to one with a more solid neck.
Would be pretty damn satisfying if you can deal with all the little issues and get it exactly how you want it.