NGD Update: The Parker p38 is back.

DefaultM

I bought a guitar from them once probably 10 years ago and never again. It turned up and had practically no frets left and the back had Guns n Roses stickers on it, no mention of it anywhere.

skunkwerx

Ite, so picked up the Parker from Feline earlier in the week. 

Its had a new nut, an Earvana, a new shim in the neck pocket and a fret dress and fret ends given some attention. 

So thats the string alignment sorted also, and now the truss rod moves freely after it was turned a few times. 

Original knob put back on instead of the mismatched one the previous owner had put on there. 

Slightly tweaked the set up to account for my heavy handed playing and the sudden shift from a stable 30% humidity to 60% which has affected my gibbos this week too. Pain in the ass but it what it is I suppose. Would love some aircon. Lol. 

Also applied mandatory Cky sticker..

AK99

Good job. Some other interesting company guitar-wise in there too

skunkwerx

Tbh I really should have done the deeper cleaning before getting it seen to and set up etc.. 

The body is 25 years old and shows signs in terms of swirl marks all over it. I bet with the 3 stage Chemical Guys car polish I have, it would make a massive improvement and bring back a lot of gloss. 

So maybe next week I'll do it and be careful around the plastics and all that..

Um, I cleaned a few bits though. 

Bridge was manky as fuck, and that white around the treble side bridge post was just mank, so cleaned off. 

After is a terrible pic.. apologies. 

 I didnt go in too much on the saddles.. but its cleaner. 

 

The trem arm was made of tetanus: 

So after wanking it with some Gibson metal polish which is what I had laying about, and for about half an hour of hard work, its acceptable. 

Really I needed some heavier metal polish, but hey ho. 

I removed the tip, which is like a rubberised foam type thing. I'm actually quite surprised it hasnt already disintegrated as it seems the type of material that would. 

Wasnt sure what to clean it with so went for running it under the tap and will leave it to dry and pop it back on. 

ICBM

That's superb. It looks great now, and I'm not even a fan of these normally.

Is it just me, or is the action insanely low? For it to play that well - especially if you're more heavy-handed - with a really low action is a huge tribute to @FelineGuitars.

skunkwerx

The tremolo is set to down only, but when used the b string returns very sharp every time. 

No pings to be heard and it tunes up ok, the nut had lube. Pressing the string behind the nut does nothing to returning it to pitch, BUT doing a normal bend on the string does return it to normal pitch. 

It 'could' be the string tree because I replaced the stock tuners with locking ones which are slightly longer than what was stock, so the string sits slightly higher on the post. 

Thus as the string goes over the nut then under the string tree, it then has to rise up steeper to the tuner hole, which could cause a binding point. 

I replaced the stock string tree with a barrel type, but no change. I do have a spacer so will also try that to raise the string tree and shallow the angle, so will see if that helps. 

Otherwise I will try and open up the b string slot a little and re lube it.. if that doesnt work it must be the saddle or how the string goes thru the bridge. 

skunkwerx

ICBM said:

That's superb. It looks great now, and I'm not even a fan of these normally.

Is it just me, or is the action insanely low? For it to play that well - especially if you're more heavy-handed - with a really low action is a huge tribute to @FelineGuitars.

In those pics I'd adjusted it slightly from Felines settings actually! I just cannot get power chords to be buzz free at what I class low or medium actions, except on my Gibsons! But every other guitar I have I find I need to increase the action a lot. 

So with the parker in those pics the specs are: 
Relief .10 thou(ish) measured at the 8th fret of the low e whilst the 1st and 19th frets are fretted. 

Action measured at 12th fret
Low e is 2mm-2.25mm 
High e is 1.75mm

No idea if those figures would be reasonable to others but I find most of my guitars are kind of in this range, the Gibsons usually slightly lower, by .25mm both sides.

Cowboyyeehaa1

Fair play. If it were me, that wouldve been straight in the box on its way back to Richtone, if they'd of sold it to me without mentioning all of the issues.

skunkwerx

Oh, completely forgot to mention, it needed a new jack socket too as the original was working but could cut out if the cable was wiggled so, whilst it was in thought better to have it changed. Theyre a bit more specialised what with the piezo and ability to split the output. 

Some random thoughts on the Fishman/Wilko vs50p bridge.. 
When I was playing around with it before I took it in, I noticed a couple things. 

Just using this 'before' picture to illustrate: 

Those black dome head bolts lock the saddle in place after you've adjusted height and intonation. Great, but by tightening them clockwise, it also twists the saddle as can be seen in the pic, theyre all leaning toward the high e side. 

This also contributed to throwing the string alignment off! 

What I did when adjusted them was to do the low e first, and use a small flathead screwdriver to wedge in the gap between saddles to keep it straight whilst tightening, being very careful of the piezo elements. Repeat for all. 

Also, when under normal string tension, if you want to adjust height or intonation, then loosening the locking bolt too much causes the saddles rear to pop up. So when retightening under tension you have to tighten it so that the back of the saddle is pushed back down to touch the bridge, so that it is then actually 'locked' in place. 

I tightened them reasonably, and only later noticed that actually the rear end of the saddle was still in the air. It was fine but when string change came, the saddle would drop and not effectively be locked, which could mean intonation or action could be changed. 

Tightening them more under string tension felt like it could lead to stripping those screws. Mine were fine though. 

I guess taking tension off the string for each adjustment (long winded) would be better. 

Also where the string comes through the bridge plate, it contacts the edge of the plate which isnt really recessed or smoothed, and the further forward the saddle is, the sharper that bend becomes which could result in string snaps? 

ICBM

You’ve identified some of the design flaws with those bridges. There’s a big one that you luckily haven’t come across too - if you try to raise the saddles with the two height screws at the front without realising you have to slacken the locking screw first, you can strip the threads, or rip the mounting post right out of the bridge block. I used to have a couple of scrap ones which I used for parts which that had happened to.

One of the brilliant things about Leo Fender’s original Strat bridge is that no screws - apart from the three that hold the plate to the block, which are large and strong enough to take any amount of force you can put on with hand tools - are cranked down tightly under tension, so there’s no risk of stripping anything.

FelineGuitars

ICBM said:

You’ve identified some of the design flaws with those bridges. There’s a big one that you luckily haven’t come across too - if you try to raise the saddles with the two height screws at the front without realising you have to slacken the locking screw first, you can strip the threads, or rip the mounting post right out of the bridge block. I used to have a couple of scrap ones which I used for parts which that had happened to.

One of the brilliant things about Leo Fender’s original Strat bridge is that no screws - apart from the three that hold the plate to the block, which are large and strong enough to take any amount of force you can put on with hand tools - are cranked down tightly under tension, so there’s no risk of stripping anything.

And the weird thing was that the height screws were metric (1.5mm) and the locking screw was imperial (1/16")

And also guitar tuned down a whole step to D standard (albeit with 10-52 strings)

skunkwerx

Had a go at opening the b slot up a little with a music nomad .13 file, which has helped a bit. Its no longer returning sharp by half a step, but about 3 cents sharp on the boss tu3. 

Was reluctant to do much incase I increase the depth because its already perfect depth wise. 

So, I ordered some big bends nut sauce and also from big bends are some sleeves, which basically look like heat shrink tubes which the strings go through at the ball end, and its supposed to cushion the string against the sharp kink of the bridge plate. 

I figure I'll try that before filing any more nut slots, and also lube the knife edges just to try and rule out the bridge.

How they will fair with trem use, I'm not sure, and I'll have to wait and see how I can install them when they arrive. I imagine I'll cut them down somewhat.. but I did wonder if the string wraps at the ball end will end up just digging in to the 'sleeve' and basically presenting the same problem! 

Only thomann seemed to carry them so will have a while to wait. 

I figured I could also put some lube over the sleeves to help. 

Also coming is a roller string tree, which I will lube and install.. hopefully its the right height. The one I had on there was too short a post, but it came with a spacer so I installed that and its drastically reduced the break angle from the tuner post to the tree, and kept the break angle at nut somewhat normal, but its had little effect on the strings returning sharp, and so I doubt the roller style tree will make any difference, but why not try it to keep things as smooth as possible! 

The weather is royally messing with my reliefs also.. not ideal.. things changing daily and its making it hard to know whats stable and whats not. 

skullfunkerry

skunkwerx said:

Had a go at opening the b slot up a little with a music nomad .13 file, which has helped a bit. Its no longer returning sharp by half a step, but about 3 cents sharp on the boss tu3. 

Was reluctant to do much incase I increase the depth because its already perfect depth wise. 

So, I ordered some big bends nut sauce and also from big bends are some sleeves, which basically look like heat shrink tubes which the strings go through at the ball end, and its supposed to cushion the string against the sharp kink of the bridge plate. 

I figure I'll try that before filing any more nut slots, and also lube the knife edges just to try and rule out the bridge.

How they will fair with trem use, I'm not sure, and I'll have to wait and see how I can install them when they arrive. I imagine I'll cut them down somewhat.. but I did wonder if the string wraps at the ball end will end up just digging in to the 'sleeve' and basically presenting the same problem! 

Only thomann seemed to carry them so will have a while to wait. 

I figured I could also put some lube over the sleeves to help. 

Also coming is a roller string tree, which I will lube and install.. hopefully its the right height. The one I had on there was too short a post, but it came with a spacer so I installed that and its drastically reduced the break angle from the tuner post to the tree, and kept the break angle at nut somewhat normal, but its had little effect on the strings returning sharp, and so I doubt the roller style tree will make any difference, but why not try it to keep things as smooth as possible! 

The weather is royally messing with my reliefs also.. not ideal.. things changing daily and its making it hard to know whats stable and whats not. 

Dude I can't help with any of your issues; I just want to say though that it’s very impressive how you’ve got stuck into fettling your guitars

Svartmetall

"Magic, the Gathering' neck shim..."

I cast Fret Buzz!

skunkwerx

skullfunkerry said:

skunkwerx said:

Had a go at opening the b slot up a little with a music nomad .13 file, which has helped a bit. Its no longer returning sharp by half a step, but about 3 cents sharp on the boss tu3. 

Was reluctant to do much incase I increase the depth because its already perfect depth wise. 

So, I ordered some big bends nut sauce and also from big bends are some sleeves, which basically look like heat shrink tubes which the strings go through at the ball end, and its supposed to cushion the string against the sharp kink of the bridge plate. 

I figure I'll try that before filing any more nut slots, and also lube the knife edges just to try and rule out the bridge.

How they will fair with trem use, I'm not sure, and I'll have to wait and see how I can install them when they arrive. I imagine I'll cut them down somewhat.. but I did wonder if the string wraps at the ball end will end up just digging in to the 'sleeve' and basically presenting the same problem! 

Only thomann seemed to carry them so will have a while to wait. 

I figured I could also put some lube over the sleeves to help. 

Also coming is a roller string tree, which I will lube and install.. hopefully its the right height. The one I had on there was too short a post, but it came with a spacer so I installed that and its drastically reduced the break angle from the tuner post to the tree, and kept the break angle at nut somewhat normal, but its had little effect on the strings returning sharp, and so I doubt the roller style tree will make any difference, but why not try it to keep things as smooth as possible! 

The weather is royally messing with my reliefs also.. not ideal.. things changing daily and its making it hard to know whats stable and whats not. 

Dude I can't help with any of your issues; I just want to say though that it’s very impressive how you’ve got stuck into fettling your guitars

Ah cheers man! Yeah its good fun.. well.. when its not frustrating that is! 

One day I'll look at these courses that teach you fret work I reckon, would like to be able to do a bit more of the hard stuff!

skunkwerx

Just a little update 
Rich Tone refuses any partial refund based on the fact any warranty with them is voided as the works been carried out by a third party, and they deem it was acceptable when they had it... + its been a month and issue should have been raised sooner. 

I did tell them it was with a luthier for most of that time, so would have been hard to fully assess the remaining issues. 

Despite me raising prior to sale the nut and them refusing to see to it. So.. any remedy they may have offered.. I fail to see tbh. 

Maybe my fault, should have emailed in the fews hours I had it before dropping it off. 

But yeah they dont check jack shit to ensure it actually works, much like any retailer in my experience used or otherwise.

Ah well. Its better than it was.. 

Sporky

My P38 needed a fair bit of fettling too - Machinehead sorted it. So it must have been a good while ago!

DefaultM

Yeah you should have raised it sooner, but don't feel too bad cos I've had the same situation and did raise it sooner and they still didn't give a shit haha.

skunkwerx

DefaultM said:

Yeah you should have raised it sooner, but don't feel too bad cos I've had the same situation and did raise it sooner and they still didn't give a shit haha.

Haha I bet, ah lessons learned eh! 

Kittyfrisk

DefaultM said:

Yeah you should have raised it sooner, but don't feel too bad cos I've had the same situation and did raise it sooner and they still didn't give a shit haha.

Whoa! You both bought the same unsorted guitar from the same dealer? Awesome!