Line 6 Helix

sgosden

Bidley said:

sgosden said:

Bidley said:

sweepy said:

Bidley said:

This has probably been asked a bunch of times, but what powered cabs are people using for the Helix live?

The Matrix stuff looks good but a bit spendy. Are the Alto or Headrush things any good?

Atomic CLR, the best I have ever used, why penny pinch ?

Because I'm on a budget. And if I can get 95% of the way there by spending considerably less, then I'm ok with that.

Are you wanting FRFR or something to drive a normal guitar cab? 

FRFR - the terminology escaped me

Sorry  
Full range, flat reaponse.      So kinda like a PA (front of house) speaker. 
You'd give this type ofaof cab an impulse  response, or helix cab signal. 

OR

You can send a signal to a flat response power amp such as a matrix , or harly Benton , or Seymour Duncan which will send the helix amp signal to a cab without an IR or cab block 

Bidley

sgosden said:

Bidley said:

sgosden said:

Bidley said:

sweepy said:

Bidley said:

This has probably been asked a bunch of times, but what powered cabs are people using for the Helix live?

The Matrix stuff looks good but a bit spendy. Are the Alto or Headrush things any good?

Atomic CLR, the best I have ever used, why penny pinch ?

Because I'm on a budget. And if I can get 95% of the way there by spending considerably less, then I'm ok with that.

Are you wanting FRFR or something to drive a normal guitar cab? 

FRFR - the terminology escaped me

Sorry  
Full range, flat reaponse.      So kinda like a PA (front of house) speaker. 
You'd give this type ofaof cab an impulse  response, or helix cab signal. 

OR

You can send a signal to a flat response power amp such as a matrix , or harly Benton , or Seymour Duncan which will send the helix amp signal to a cab without an IR or cab block 

Yep, it's FRFR I'm after!

siremoon

simonhpieman said:

siremoon said:

simonhpieman said:

Helix wizards:

Seller has mates at Yamaha/Line6 and having spoken to them is convinced it's a software issue and can be sorted by getting the right drivers on the PC.

Anyone have any advice or tips they can share? Pretty much out of ideas at this point.

Whilst Yamaha/Line6 ought to know what they are talking about I'm struggling to understand why driver problems on the PC would prevent the unit from booting.  If it were me then I'd break this down into two separate problems.  a.  Get the unit to boot up. b. Get the unit to connect to the PC.

You say you went through "all" of the FS hold options (there are 9 iirc).  Did that include Safe Boot? 

Thanks for your reply!

Switches 6+12, right? Sadly I've tried that a number of times. And 9+10. And 4 (I think it was) on it's own. And 8+9. Possibly not all 9 combinations but I can definitely give that a go, even though I'm not convinced it'll help. It seems like it's just not recongising any button presses or anything.

Just to check here.  You are pressing the switches down with the unit switched off then switching on whilst keeping them pressed down until the screen confirms it is in the expected mode? 

I would set about this as follows:

Disconnect the USB cable from the Helix.  Attempt to boot the Helix into safe mode.

If that doesn't work then:

Power off Helix

Remove all versions of Helix software from PC (Hx Edit and Line 6 Updater)

Download and install Hx Edit v2.8.2.

Connect the USB cable to the Helix and to a USB port on the rear of the PC (not to a hub or front panel usb port)

Power up Helix with no FS pressed

Run Line 6 Updater on the PC (gets installed when you install Hx Edit)

If that doesn't work then:

Close Line 6 Updater

Power off Helix

Then power up Helix again this time with FS6 and FS12 pressed

Run Line 6 Updater on the PC

If that doesn't work and as Line 6 support couldn't help then I suggest contacting Frank Richotte from Line 6.  He posts on TGP and on the Facebook Helix group amongst other places and has an excellent reputation for getting bricked Helix units sorted out. 

If that doesn't work get your money back

simonhpieman

siremoon said:

simonhpieman said:

siremoon said:

simonhpieman said:

Helix wizards:

Seller has mates at Yamaha/Line6 and having spoken to them is convinced it's a software issue and can be sorted by getting the right drivers on the PC.

Anyone have any advice or tips they can share? Pretty much out of ideas at this point.

Whilst Yamaha/Line6 ought to know what they are talking about I'm struggling to understand why driver problems on the PC would prevent the unit from booting.  If it were me then I'd break this down into two separate problems.  a.  Get the unit to boot up. b. Get the unit to connect to the PC.

You say you went through "all" of the FS hold options (there are 9 iirc).  Did that include Safe Boot? 

Thanks for your reply!

Switches 6+12, right? Sadly I've tried that a number of times. And 9+10. And 4 (I think it was) on it's own. And 8+9. Possibly not all 9 combinations but I can definitely give that a go, even though I'm not convinced it'll help. It seems like it's just not recongising any button presses or anything.

Just to check here.  You are pressing the switches down with the unit switched off then switching on whilst keeping them pressed down until the screen confirms it is in the expected mode? 

I would set about this as follows:

Disconnect the USB cable from the Helix.  Attempt to boot the Helix into safe mode.

If that doesn't work then:

Power off Helix

Remove all versions of Helix software from PC (Hx Edit and Line 6 Updater)

Download and install Hx Edit v2.8.2.

Connect the USB cable to the Helix and to a USB port on the rear of the PC (not to a hub or front panel usb port)

Power up Helix with no FS pressed

Run Line 6 Updater on the PC (gets installed when you install Hx Edit)

If that doesn't work then:

Close Line 6 Updater

Power off Helix

Then power up Helix again this time with FS6 and FS12 pressed

Run Line 6 Updater on the PC

If that doesn't work and as Line 6 support couldn't help then I suggest contacting Frank Richotte from Line 6.  He posts on TGP and on the Facebook Helix group amongst other places and has an excellent reputation for getting bricked Helix units sorted out. 

If that doesn't work get your money back

Thanks pal, will have a look at this tomorrow. Fingers crossed something works though it already feels like I've tried a few things you've suggested....

Nonetheless, can't hurt to have another go tomorrow.

siremoon

simonhpieman said:

siremoon said:

simonhpieman said:

siremoon said:

simonhpieman said:

Helix wizards:

Seller has mates at Yamaha/Line6 and having spoken to them is convinced it's a software issue and can be sorted by getting the right drivers on the PC.

Anyone have any advice or tips they can share? Pretty much out of ideas at this point.

Whilst Yamaha/Line6 ought to know what they are talking about I'm struggling to understand why driver problems on the PC would prevent the unit from booting.  If it were me then I'd break this down into two separate problems.  a.  Get the unit to boot up. b. Get the unit to connect to the PC.

You say you went through "all" of the FS hold options (there are 9 iirc).  Did that include Safe Boot? 

Thanks for your reply!

Switches 6+12, right? Sadly I've tried that a number of times. And 9+10. And 4 (I think it was) on it's own. And 8+9. Possibly not all 9 combinations but I can definitely give that a go, even though I'm not convinced it'll help. It seems like it's just not recongising any button presses or anything.

Just to check here.  You are pressing the switches down with the unit switched off then switching on whilst keeping them pressed down until the screen confirms it is in the expected mode? 

I would set about this as follows:

Disconnect the USB cable from the Helix.  Attempt to boot the Helix into safe mode.

If that doesn't work then:

Power off Helix

Remove all versions of Helix software from PC (Hx Edit and Line 6 Updater)

Download and install Hx Edit v2.8.2.

Connect the USB cable to the Helix and to a USB port on the rear of the PC (not to a hub or front panel usb port)

Power up Helix with no FS pressed

Run Line 6 Updater on the PC (gets installed when you install Hx Edit)

If that doesn't work then:

Close Line 6 Updater

Power off Helix

Then power up Helix again this time with FS6 and FS12 pressed

Run Line 6 Updater on the PC

If that doesn't work and as Line 6 support couldn't help then I suggest contacting Frank Richotte from Line 6.  He posts on TGP and on the Facebook Helix group amongst other places and has an excellent reputation for getting bricked Helix units sorted out. 

If that doesn't work get your money back

Thanks pal, will have a look at this tomorrow. Fingers crossed something works though it already feels like I've tried a few things you've suggested....

Nonetheless, can't hurt to have another go tomorrow.

The key points are:

You need to install Hx Edit 2.8.2 as that is what it is trying to load.  Other versions are not going to work

Versions before 2.90 were upgraded using the Line 6 Updater and not Hx Edit so you need to run the updater for 2.8.2 not edit.

The usb cable needs to be plugged into the back of the PC

The only other thing I can think of is that very occasionally in the past my Helix has locked up if it is powered up with the usb cable connected so it might be worth trying with it disconnected and then plugging it in after power up.

However if you've done all of that then I reckon it's either an SOS to Frank Richotte or forget it. 

Heartfeltdawn

Alright, the headphone debate...

I'm sitting here with one pair of three-month old AT-M50X phones and one pair of Beyerdynamic DT880 phones that are one week old.  

M50X: closed back, 38 ohms. 

DT880: semi-open back, 250 ohms. 

Audio interfaces: Native Instruments Komplete Audio 2 with a headphone output of +4.2 dBu (48 mW @ 33 Ohm).

SPL Crimson: Output impedance: 33ohms. 
Max. Power: 47ohms load: 670mW 300ohms load: 265mW 600ohms load: 150mW

1. Testing each set of headphones

I got the Fiio M7 player out. This has a spec of Output Impedance: < 2 Ohms (32 Ohms loaded) with a recommend headphone impedance of 16 – 100 Ohms. Generally the M7 sits in my work bag along with a pair of VE Monk in-ear phones (64 ohms). They're superb earbuds, the closest thing for a decent price to the old SOny earbuds I used to buy once a year back in the days of Discmans. 

You can hear how the DT880 lack volume compared to the M50X. That's all down to impedance. You need a decent headphone amp to drive them and the M7 hasn't got the grunt to do it. Even with the volume at full tilt, it's gentle and isn't biting your ears off. This is entirely expected though: the M7 headphone output specs are clear and the 250ohm DT880 cans aren't right for it. 

2. Komplete Audio 2 running Helix Native

Much the same as the M7. Even at full tilt, the KA2 low impedance means it isn't driving the DT880s massively. The M50X sound punchier, more in your face (ears) and that is down to their impedance and their closed back nature. 

3. SPL Crimson running Helix Native

However once you get the DT880s with a decent headphone amp, as the SPL Crimson has, they're sounding bloody marvellous. The added headphone amp oompf means youcan get the same volume as the M50X phones and get the benefits of the semi-open nature of the DT880s. Really loving this combination. 

4. Helix LT

So the final test. I set myself up a stereo chain of stupid simplicity: One clean Mesa California amp on each side, a chorus on the left side, and a pair of plate reverbs on each for a little ambience. I'm tuning up to something weird and jamming out The Headmaster Ritual by the Smiths. 

I've never liked the M50Xs with the LT headphone output. They sound brittle and horrible and there's this odd feeling with playing that makes me feel like I'm using a soundcard with shitty latency. When it sounds shit, I play like shit and.... shudder. I bought my LT toward the start of lockdown and in all honesty its not been turned on for two months as the laptop/Native/headphone option sounded that much better. I bought the DT880s on a whim the other day because I'd worked my tail off earlier in the work covering for two sick chefs over two days and figured they were worth a punt. 

And too bloody right they are with the LT. Absolutely night and fucking day difference between these and the M50Xs. The sound isn't brittle, it's glorious. Everything sounds so much better. It gets me to the point where I'm nodding along because playing anything Johnny Marr's written makes me feel like an alright guitarist who isn't total dogshit. 

Conclusion:

If you buy the LT, get some decent cans. High ohm rating and go for open or semi-open backs. 

WiresDreamDisasters

Decent cans are a definite necessity. Whether on your ears, or on the wife.

Heartfeltdawn

And on the au pair if you've got the scratch. 

guitargeek62

Don't forget the maid too.

duotone

simonhpieman said:

siremoon said:

simonhpieman said:

siremoon said:

simonhpieman said:

Helix wizards:

Seller has mates at Yamaha/Line6 and having spoken to them is convinced it's a software issue and can be sorted by getting the right drivers on the PC.

Anyone have any advice or tips they can share? Pretty much out of ideas at this point.

Whilst Yamaha/Line6 ought to know what they are talking about I'm struggling to understand why driver problems on the PC would prevent the unit from booting.  If it were me then I'd break this down into two separate problems.  a.  Get the unit to boot up. b. Get the unit to connect to the PC.

You say you went through "all" of the FS hold options (there are 9 iirc).  Did that include Safe Boot? 

Thanks for your reply!

Switches 6+12, right? Sadly I've tried that a number of times. And 9+10. And 4 (I think it was) on it's own. And 8+9. Possibly not all 9 combinations but I can definitely give that a go, even though I'm not convinced it'll help. It seems like it's just not recongising any button presses or anything.

Just to check here.  You are pressing the switches down with the unit switched off then switching on whilst keeping them pressed down until the screen confirms it is in the expected mode? 

I would set about this as follows:

Disconnect the USB cable from the Helix.  Attempt to boot the Helix into safe mode.

If that doesn't work then:

Power off Helix

Remove all versions of Helix software from PC (Hx Edit and Line 6 Updater)

Download and install Hx Edit v2.8.2.

Connect the USB cable to the Helix and to a USB port on the rear of the PC (not to a hub or front panel usb port)

Power up Helix with no FS pressed

Run Line 6 Updater on the PC (gets installed when you install Hx Edit)

If that doesn't work then:

Close Line 6 Updater

Power off Helix

Then power up Helix again this time with FS6 and FS12 pressed

Run Line 6 Updater on the PC

If that doesn't work and as Line 6 support couldn't help then I suggest contacting Frank Richotte from Line 6.  He posts on TGP and on the Facebook Helix group amongst other places and has an excellent reputation for getting bricked Helix units sorted out. 

If that doesn't work get your money back

Thanks pal, will have a look at this tomorrow. Fingers crossed something works though it already feels like I've tried a few things you've suggested....

Nonetheless, can't hurt to have another go tomorrow.

@simonhpieman ;
https://www.thefretboard.co.uk/discussion/comment/2585387/#Comment_2585387

Sounds like a similar issue I had with my Helix LT.  I managed to get it working again by:

1.) Downloaded the HX Edit v2.82 Installer (from last September, as that's when my problem arose) which froze the loading bar on the Helix.  Not sure if this was a good sign, but it was different as previously the bar kept moving but no progress was made.
2.) Closed down HX Edit & turned the Helix off.
3). Opened Line 6 Updater Version 1.19 & turned the Helix back on. I was really shocked to see the Helix LT appear on the updater screen. And then I just followed the instructions on there, which only took about 20 minutes to update.  As an added bonus all of my old tones were still on the Helix.

simonhpieman

Thanks for that @duotone . It went back to the seller on Monday. On Tuesday he sends me a video with it plugged into his laptop and it booting clean up.

Sadly he didn't attempt to turn it on without it attached to the PC to replicate my issue but he got it working immediately. No idea if that was due to his laptop having started the update and therefore having to finish it but I couldn't get the bloody thing to do anything. I tried what you did several times on several computers and no joy. It was totally unresponsive and I could never get it to be recognised. Always immediately showing the same building MUI message.

I had a -7 whereas I think you had a :-3? Must have been different. I couldn't get it into any kind of update mode or anything. It did exactly the same thing every time I turned it on regardless of what I did.

Anyway. The seller got it working and its on its way back to me. He showed me that it also boots without being connected to the PC now, too (again, first thing I tried when it arrived, same building MUI message).

Must just state that Adam the seller has been faultlessly helpful throughout. No idea if he's on here, he's not mentioned it. But he's been helpful far beyond what's been expected (and he's been in hospital part of the time). Just one of those things.

Fingers crossed that's the end of it and I can finally do some playing when it arrives!

Freebird

WiresDreamDisasters said:

As for pitch effects, this is from our upcoming album:
https://soundcloud.com/sloppiestholes/drebow

I couldn't get the tone with a Whammy or Pitchfork. The background sweeps were not subtle or controllable enough. Helix smashed it out of the park!

 I like that. Have you got a longer version without the drums?

WiresDreamDisasters

Freebird said:

WiresDreamDisasters said:

As for pitch effects, this is from our upcoming album:
https://soundcloud.com/sloppiestholes/drebow

I couldn't get the tone with a Whammy or Pitchfork. The background sweeps were not subtle or controllable enough. Helix smashed it out of the park!

 I like that. Have you got a longer version without the drums?

Nurr urrr! You're not using my samples for your Soundcloud rap! Nosiree!

duotone

simonhpieman said:

Thanks for that @duotone . It went back to the seller on Monday. On Tuesday he sends me a video with it plugged into his laptop and it booting clean up.

Sadly he didn't attempt to turn it on without it attached to the PC to replicate my issue but he got it working immediately. No idea if that was due to his laptop having started the update and therefore having to finish it but I couldn't get the bloody thing to do anything. I tried what you did several times on several computers and no joy. It was totally unresponsive and I could never get it to be recognised. Always immediately showing the same building MUI message.

I had a -7 whereas I think you had a :-3? Must have been different. I couldn't get it into any kind of update mode or anything. It did exactly the same thing every time I turned it on regardless of what I did.

Anyway. The seller got it working and its on its way back to me. He showed me that it also boots without being connected to the PC now, too (again, first thing I tried when it arrived, same building MUI message).

Must just state that Adam the seller has been faultlessly helpful throughout. No idea if he's on here, he's not mentioned it. But he's been helpful far beyond what's been expected (and he's been in hospital part of the time). Just one of those things.

Fingers crossed that's the end of it and I can finally do some playing when it arrives!

That’s good news @simonhpieman ;

Yes mine read :-3 & not -7. I don’t remember seeing a ‘building MUI” message, sounds like a different issue to mine.  I must admit I haven’t tried connecting it to the PC for any more updates atm. Am just happy to have it working!

Enjoy the playing when it arrives!

Chris.B

Heartfeltdawn said:

Lots of interesting and informative stuff about Helix and headphone use.

Very interesting to read your thoughts on headphones and the Helix.  Beyer offer 3 versions of the 880 with impedance of 32, 250 and 600 ohm.  I wonder if the 32 ohm version will give the same quality sound as the high impedance version and provide higher sound levels, if required. 

Beexter

Chris.B said:

Heartfeltdawn said:

Lots of interesting and informative stuff about Helix and headphone use.

Very interesting to read your thoughts on headphones and the Helix.  Beyer offer 3 versions of the 880 with impedance of 32, 250 and 600 ohm.  I wonder if the 32 ohm version will give the same quality sound as the high impedance version and provide higher sound levels, if required. 

I can't compare them with the 250ohm version but i went with the 32ohm DT880's and am very happy with them.
They work well on anything I plug them into (including the HX Stomp)

Chris.B

Beexter said:

I can't compare them with the 250ohm version but i went with the 32ohm DT880's and am very happy with them.
They work well on anything I plug them into. 

Thanks Beexter, if I get any grief about my awful practice noise I'll probably go with the DT880 32 ohm - it's the closest match to the 12 ohm headphone out impedance of the Helix.

kennedydream1980

I always understood it to be that higher impedance headphones worked better with the Helix.

This article seems to support that:

https://musicgearzone.com/4-best-headphones-for-helix/

Chris.B

kennedydream1980 said:

I always understood it to be that higher impedance headphones worked better with the Helix.

This article seems to support that:

https://musicgearzone.com/4-best-headphones-for-helix/

I assumed, incorrectly it seems, that headphone impedance should be close to the output device impedance.  

Thanks for linking to the article Kennedydream, very interesting - I've learnt something today.

JohnCordy

Having some fun doing things I can't do with the pod go....