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I have done halfords rattlecan finishes which worked okay by keeping it superthin coats with plenty of time between, but I still think its a sub-par medium
I stripped a 10 year old rattlecan finish that seemed hard a few weeks back, and it still turned gummy as soon as I tried to sand or scrape it off.
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One thing that stands out is that 1k colour paint has a satin finish and is designed to be clearcoated over, doesn't polish well at all, and isn't very tough - it's not a final topcoat paint. So if you're able to polish it to a shine I'm wondering what it actually is.. or you may just need a couple of thin coats of 1k clear on it.
If it is 1k for sure and not celly and as you have nothing really to lose by it I'd try that; one thinnish coat enough to wet it, wait 10 mins, put on one decent but not flooded wet coat. See how it is the next day or two.
This car paint type is called 1k, 1k acrylic and commonly just "basecoat" or "base". Should be touch-dry inside 20mins if the proper thinnish coats were done. By then the solvent's evaporated and it's starting to crosslink.
With too-heavy layers, and too soon, it's possible to trap solvent and mess up the setting process.
It's common to put on 2k clear inside an hour of doing the colour coats, 24 hrs max. Say that as an indicator of how fast it normally dries. This paint is also used on guitars as the colour stage in clear-over-base finishes.
You didn't mention the H word but Halfords mixed-to-order cans are nitro, according to someone who works there, while their racked cans are normal 1k acrylic/base.