Best EL34 tubes?

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AlexHunterAlexHunter Frets: 422
It's new amp day here (H&K Switchblade courtesy of JohnnyUrq) and because all my other amps are 5881/6l6 powered, I don't have any spare EL34s and will need a matching quad.

It's got TADs in it. I've always liked TAD valves and thought they had quite a smooth sound across bass,mid and treb with enough clarity. Conversely, I've always found EH to be a bit too mid-crunchy, JJs to be too bottom heavy and muddy and Sovteks robust but just brittle sounding.

However, that being said, I have no idea about any of their tonal characteristics when it comes to EL34s so what are my recommendations for a matched quad?? I can't stretch to Winged Cs, so I'm interested in opinions on TAD, Tungsol, JJ, EH and Groove Tubes.

Watford Valves (who I've never dealt with but have heard the horror stories) have Groove Tubes on offer currently but I'm not convinced about purchasing from them.
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  • bertiebertie Frets: 13575
    I cant go for them now  cos of Franks vet bill.............but.................looky looky >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

    just because you don't, doesn't mean you can't
     just because you do, doesn't mean you should.
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  • ESchapESchap Frets: 1428

    I've used Watford valves a few time recently and had no problems.  Still don't like the fact that prices are ex VAT and unless you phone them you don't know what the shipping is until after they have your card details!!

    No experience of TAD's, but I'd say your description of the EH, JJ's and Sovteks 6L6's (?) pretty much holds for EL34's.  Winged C's are very good and the closest modern EL34 to Mullards that I've heard.  JJ's are OK and quite useable in a Marshall voiced amp.   I  haven't tried GT EL34s.  However, don't like their 6L6's find them brittle and spiky, particularly their 60's GE side getter clone which sound nothing like the original valve!

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  • AlexHunterAlexHunter Frets: 422
    bertie said:
    I cant go for them now  cos of Franks vet bill.............but.................looky looky >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

    Nice, but need a matching quad.


    ESchap said:

    I've used Watford valves a few time recently and had no problems.  Still don't like the fact that prices are ex VAT and unless you phone them you don't know what the shipping is until after they have your card details!!

    No experience of TAD's, but I'd say your description of the EH, JJ's and Sovteks 6L6's (?) pretty much holds for EL34's.  Winged C's are very good and the closest modern EL34 to Mullards that I've heard.  JJ's are OK and quite useable in a Marshall voiced amp.   I  haven't tried GT EL34s.  However, don't like their 6L6's find them brittle and spiky, particularly their 60's GE side getter clone which sound nothing like the original valve!

    Well that was easy then. Wasn't aware that Watford Valves didn't include VAT so that leaves me with TAD or Tungsol.
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  • ESchapESchap Frets: 1428

    Shugz who was on the MR forum put Tungsol Reissue 5881's in his Tweed Bassman reissue when he got it and first rehearsal one went bit time and took some resistors in the amp with it.  I've avoided them as a make since that.

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  • ftumchftumch Frets: 692
    ESchap said:

    Shugz who was on the MR forum put Tungsol Reissue 5881's in his Tweed Bassman reissue when he got it and first rehearsal one went bit time and took some resistors in the amp with it.  I've avoided them as a make since that.


    Bloody hell I hope that was a one off, I just done a complete revalve of my Rivera with Tungsol reissues, (apart from the phase inverter which is a jan Phillips) they were reccomended on a Rivera specialist site though. I've only gigged them once so far so a bit early for me to give any opinion on them.
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  • surfguy13surfguy13 Frets: 133
    The guy that does my amps (Andy, Animal Amps) always uses Tube Doctor valves as he finds then to be consistently good.  He has a LOT of vintage valves but, as he gigs with 3 bands, he always uses TD for reliability.  Haven't tried them myself but I'm happy to go with Andy's recommendation.

    ESChap is right on the ball as always..... ;) ..... the winged C's seem to be another very good option and it'd be a toss up between them and TD.

    JJs are pretty good for the money, I was pleasantly surprised.....I re-valved an early 60s AC30 about 6 months ago and I thought they were exceptional.  They replaced an original quad of Mullards and they were as good if not better.  Mind you, the Mullards were 50 years old so.........?!!  :)
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  • bertiebertie Frets: 13575
    Nice, but need a matching quad.

    sorry, didnt read that bit properly   :\">
    just because you don't, doesn't mean you can't
     just because you do, doesn't mean you should.
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  • Van_HaydenVan_Hayden Frets: 438
    JJ EL34s take some beating for the price. Hot Rox sell a quad for about £55 I think. Not as warm as svets but tighter when you push them. Reliable at the moment. Fit JJs at Matamp and don't get that many problems, unless the factory are making crap that month which happens every now and again.
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  • Van_HaydenVan_Hayden Frets: 438
    Surprised you found the JJs bottom heavy - depends on the circuit, iron and ears!
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  • ecc83ecc83 Frets: 1646
    I used a LOT of TAD EL34s up to about 3 years ago (90% for tests, 10% repairs) and never found a problem. 

    Latterly JJs are in favour and I do not hear any bad things about them.

    Alex, IMHO "matched" pairs and quads is marketing BS for guitar amps. Just buy 4 JJs from the same source and you'll be good....Not saying you should mix brands or use new and part worn valves but it will do no harm and The Show Must Go On!"

    Dave.
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  • AlexHunterAlexHunter Frets: 422
    JJ EL34s take some beating for the price. Hot Rox sell a quad for about £55 I think. Not as warm as svets but tighter when you push them. Reliable at the moment. Fit JJs at Matamp and don't get that many problems, unless the factory are making crap that month which happens every now and again.
    Hmm they might be tighter when pushed but, in all honesty, I doubt I'm ever really going to be able to push 100 watts of EL34 power at full. They might not appreciate it in some of the venues I play.


    ecc83 said:
    I used a LOT of TAD EL34s up to about 3 years ago (90% for tests, 10% repairs) and never found a problem. 

    Latterly JJs are in favour and I do not hear any bad things about them.

    Alex, IMHO "matched" pairs and quads is marketing BS for guitar amps. Just buy 4 JJs from the same source and you'll be good....Not saying you should mix brands or use new and part worn valves but it will do no harm and The Show Must Go On!"

    Dave.
    That's interesting Dave, I'll bear that in mind for future.
    I've ordered a set of TADs for £64 shipped so we wait with bated breath to check them.
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  • ICBMICBM Frets: 72885
    edited August 2013
    I prefer the TADs sound-wise. Not really a fan of JJs, although their power valves are at least OK, and reliable - I don't like their preamp valves at all.

    That said for my own amps I don't use modern valves anyway, and for customers' jobs I go with either what they want or JJs for reliability and cheapness, so I don't really have any strong opinions.

    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

    "Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein

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  • ragingbenragingben Frets: 107
    I got on with some JJ E34L's (the blue glass ones) when I had some in my Traynor. It loved them, but the amp itself was duff so I never got to play them that much.
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  • johnnyurqjohnnyurq Frets: 1368
    Have to say I much preferred the sound/tone of the TAD's in the H & K amps and they use them as OEM for their mid to high end amps, they definitely sounded better than most I tried, YMMV of course.

    Of course the Svetlana winged C's will sound very lovely too and quite expensive as well. I need to try these one day to scratch that itch.
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  • BidleyBidley Frets: 2944
    I've got Groove Tubes in my Carvin, which sounds pretty awesome. However, they came with the amp so I couldn't tell you how much difference the valves make.
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  • AlexHunterAlexHunter Frets: 422
    Bidley said:
    I've got Groove Tubes in my Carvin, which sounds pretty awesome. However, they came with the amp so I couldn't tell you how much difference the valves make.
    Which Carvin is that? I had a vintage tube 33 once, lovely amp. One of the few things I wish I hadn't sold.
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  • SidNewtonSidNewton Frets: 661

    Just to point out that Groove Tubes are not a manufacturer, they just rebrand other makes then bump up the price for supposedly testing then picking the best. Perfect example is the JJ ecc83s which you can buy from Hotrox for £7.25. The same tube branded as Groove Tube is £18. Here's a link to an interesting article.

    http://www.thetubestore.com/Tubes/Groove-Tubes

     

     

     

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  • Somone's flogging a pair of =C= 34s in the classifieds for reasonable money

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  • BidleyBidley Frets: 2944
    Bidley said:
    I've got Groove Tubes in my Carvin, which sounds pretty awesome. However, they came with the amp so I couldn't tell you how much difference the valves make.
    Which Carvin is that? I had a vintage tube 33 once, lovely amp. One of the few things I wish I hadn't sold.
    X100B Reissue. I got it for a steal and I'll never sell it. It can do pretty much everything! They do make some lovely gear.
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  • Drew_TNBDDrew_TNBD Frets: 22445
    AFAIK, there are three factories in the world making all of the tubes. A lot of tubes are just rebranded and sometimes you'll even see multiple logos, names, and serial numbers on the same tube. I got caught up in the hype recently and bought some marketed tubes. They sound good, but weren't really worth spending an extra £4 per-tube. Lesson learnt there I think.

    I'd say get the cheapest ones you can from your particular favourite country - China, Russia, or Czech Republic.

    Is it worth getting them match?? Hmm... I think it probably is worth it. You don't want a tube that is ideal for 29mV draw and a tube that is ideal for 43mV draw on the same side of a quad - opposite sides will be fine, because that's what the bias adjustment is mean to compensate for, AFAIK.

    IMHO, YMMV, etc...
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