So I need some cabs, I have a CNC and we've just taken order of a load of nice 13ply Birch at work... I was thinking of buying some Emperor cabs but the idea of building my own seems fun. Thinking I could make 2 vertical closed back 2x12's and maybe a 4x10 closed back bass cab. So just a few queries:
I've built speakers for a reggae system in the past and you normally determine the size of a cabinet by the thiele small parameters of the speaker you're using. Now, as guitar cabs are predominantly mid range instruments and people swap out speakers in cabs quite a lot I'm assuming it's not as integral? If so, how do you determine the internals of your cabinet? (I do have a book on speaker building but it mainly deals with hifi and full range systems).
I'd like to make dove tail jointed cabs but they're a PITA so I'll be using finger joints.
Rear or front loaded, pros cons?
Grill cloth, how do you attach it?
Cheers guys,
Shaun
P.S: I'm sure these questions aren't new so if anyone could direct me to similar threads it'd be very much appreciated.
Comments
Yeah, open backs seem a bit easier with the dimensions but surely closed cabs are integral to how they allow the speaker to move. Again, I think this may be more of a requirement with bass cabs hence the need for ports (then again the 8x10 is fully sealed isn't it?)
I wasn't planning on tolexing the cabs hence wanting finger joints.
I'm assuming you're referring to the weight of them? Probably why Emperor cabs are so heavy.
Repeat on the horizontal axis. When the centre section looks right, turn face down again and add more staples, regularly turning over to check taughtness and alignment as you go.
Or velcro'd as some Fenders are (in which case the girl cloth would be attached to a frame and not be part of the front baffle)
I couldn't work it out in looking at the Emporer cabs but it seems they have a frame that goes over the grill face and is radiused to blend with the sides.