Wire Insulation around strings (Like SRV)

MazzaG

For the last year or so I keep breaking my strings (nearly always the wound strings) at the bridge, they all seem to break where the string feeds through the hole. I've replaced two bridges recently on my Strats and the problem still persists, there are NO burrs/sharp edges at all on either bridge and the same goes for the saddles.

I'm putting it down to my playing style, I'm a fairly heavy hitter and frequently use my whammy bar as well which I think maybe is causing the bridge plate to cut into the strings and weakening them. Trust me when I say I've exhausted all options:

-had the burrs/sharp parts sorted out (breaks still happening at the bridge)
- replaced the bridge on both strats (still keeps happening)
- changed brand of strings/gauge (i use .10s)
- nut sauce
- flush bridge/bridge 1/4" off body
etc etc. I really have tried everything I can think of

However I've come across a few pages on the internet that speak about Stevie Ray Vaughan's guitar tech using wire insulation at the ball end of each string to cushion it, and according to him it stopped Stevie breaking strings at the bridge. Has anyone else tried this? I want to give it a go but I'm worried it'll change the tone of the guitar or have other negatives. 

Here's a photo example I found (Not SRVs): 



if anyone does do it can you recommend any particular wire insulation?


And here's a photo of the string breakage, I've pulled the string through the bridge, the break would have been lower:

monoamine

Sounds reasonable. It won't change the sound of the guitar... remember that it's the strings vibration between bridge and fret/nut that generates the signal from the pickup, nothing either side of that length.

rico

You sound like a prime candidate for the new Ernie Ball strings...

p90fool

How often do you change your strings? With conventional strings I do it every gig and never break strings, (well, two in 30 years). 

MazzaG

monoamine said:

Sounds reasonable. It won't change the sound of the guitar... remember that it's the strings vibration between bridge and fret/nut that generates the signal from the pickup, nothing either side of that length.

Gotcha, thank you!

rico said:

You sound like a prime candidate for the new Ernie Ball strings...

Literally just reading about them, they look like they'll cost a few bob but if it stops breakages...(March 1st release date in case anyone was wondering).

MazzaG

p90fool said:

How often do you change your strings? With conventional strings I do it every gig and never break strings, (well, two in 30 years). 

I change them usually once every two weeks, if i've been playing a lot them once a week. I also wipe them down after use as well.

What guitar are you using? Just wondering what bridge you have, I've not had this problem on any other guitar only Strats and Fender style bridges 

olafgarten

NYXL's are also meant to be break resistant, maybe give them a try.

MazzaG

olafgarten said:

NYXL's are also meant to be break resistant, maybe give them a try.

Haven't heard of them, thank you

rsvmark

@mazzag - I used to do this and used off cuts from bog standard twin power supply cables. I experimented with length but the trick is to get the plastic tube over the edge of the bridge plate without going all the way to the ball end. If you don't the plastic can prevent the ball end seating in the block and ends up acting a bit like a spring..... Causing tuning issues.

grungebob

I'd say pop down to local diy store and buy some earth sleeve. Has the right diameter and can be cut to length, cheap too. 

MazzaG

rsvmark said:

@mazzag - I used to do this and used off cuts from bog standard twin power supply cables. I experimented with length but the trick is to get the plastic tube over the edge of the bridge plate without going all the way to the ball end. If you don't the plastic can prevent the ball end seating in the block and ends up acting a bit like a spring..... Causing tuning issues.

Nice to see someone has tried it! What made you stop? And good tip thank you, 

grungebob said:

I'd say pop down to local diy store and buy some earth sleeve. Has the right diameter and can be cut to length, cheap too. 

Picking some up today, I think 2mm internal diameter should be fine. Funnily enough you can actually buy some for use with the guitar, big bends guitar sleeve I think it's called. 

ICBM

The ink tube from an old biro works well too, and is a tight enough fit that it doesn't interfere with the ball end. (ooh eer.)

ElectroDan

I remember seeing a picture of SRV's tech smoothing that break point over with a Dremmel too.
Perhaps that point should be a curve instead of a defined angle.

DLM

I've done this since I got my very first electric in 1995. That was a Squier Strat, and as I was forever skint, I was loth to break strings.

monoamine said:

It won't change the sound of the guitar... remember that it's the strings vibration between bridge and fret/nut that generates the signal from the pickup, nothing either side of that length.

My reasoning was the same as @monoamine's.

rsvmark said:

@mazzag - I used to do this and used off cuts from bog standard twin power supply cables. I experimented with length but the trick is to get the plastic tube over the edge of the bridge plate without going all the way to the ball end. If you don't the plastic can prevent the ball end seating in the block and ends up acting a bit like a spring..... Causing tuning issues.

I do what @rsvmark has done: offcuts of electrical cable insulation, strip out the conductive core. I used to make a heap of pieces of insulation, each about 10mm long, and keep them in my Pingu tin. You can see the yellow and green earth sleeving around the B string in this old photo: https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/15/88146432_eeeed71123_o.jpg Pingu tin also visible! I still do this on any instrument with a similar break angle over the bridgeplate, but I moved to double-locking vibrato systems when I decided I wanted to try using the wang bar, so I can't tell you if using insulation like this affects vibrato stability on Fender Strat-style bridges; I've always ended up blocking mine with wood.

MazzaG

DLM said:

I've done this since I got my very first electric in 1995. That was a Squier Strat, and as I was forever skint, I was 

Great post thank you! I've seen a couple of photos where the sleeve actually sits on the saddles which doesn't seem right, that surely affects tone and tuning stability...?

ICBM said:

The ink tube from an old biro works well too, and is a tight enough fit that it doesn't interfere with the ball end. (ooh eer.)

Does it have to be an old biro or will a new one work? Kidding! 

ElectroDan said:

I remember seeing a picture of SRV's tech smoothing that break point over with a Dremmel too.
Perhaps that point should be a curve instead of a defined angle.

I've seen that too, tried doing a quick search but couldn't find it. I read in his interview that he tried the Dremmel before using this trick. And I think a curve makes a lot more sense, although it doesn't seem to be such a common issue (breakage at the bridge) for Fender to do a redesign.

DLM

MazzaG said:

Great post thank you! I've seen a couple of photos where the sleeve actually sits on the saddles which doesn't seem right, that surely affects tone and tuning stability...?

ElectroDan said:

Dremmel

Dremmel

Having the insulation sleeve atop the saddle is going to kill your sustain, never mind tone and tuning stability!

Also:

Is a "Dremmel" the Phil Demmel signature model Dremel?

http://www.metal-archives.com/images/2/2/5/6/22562_artist.jpg?160

Yes, I've also read about the edge of the string hole being smoothed out.

For conventional Fender wang bar tuning tips, see Scott Henderson's forum:

http://online-discussion.dhenderson.com/ScottHenderson/viewforum.php?f=3&sid=21ae1e3cca8a0e2456821afeb62c43a9

The old "Scott answers your questions" archives, and the new Ask Scott section.

Over the years he's covered absolutely everything you could possibly want to know on this topic.

jacksparrow

old phone chargher is what i use cut about inch and half strip back an pull wire out. very rarely break strings now.

richardhomer

I've never broken a string on stage - so in a way I'm probably the worst person to advise....

I used to change strings at least weekly when I was gigging and never had a problem with a vintage Strat.

I'd check for sharp edges on the saddles - I doubt anything more elaborate is necessary.

JD50

I always run some solder along the end winds, seems to help.

rsvmark

MazzaG said:

rsvmark said:

@mazzag - I used to do this and used off cuts from bog standard twin power supply cables. I experimented with length but the trick is to get the plastic tube over the edge of the bridge plate without going all the way to the ball end. If you don't the plastic can prevent the ball end seating in the block and ends up acting a bit like a spring..... Causing tuning issues.

Nice to see someone has tried it! What made you stop? And good tip thank you, 

I got to the point where I had the top 2 strings effectively sleeved and it alleviated but not fully solved the problem. I took my guitars to a tech a couple of years ago he raised the query.  Bit of googling later, the consensus was the break point over the bridge plate was the culprit. There is some evidence suggesting the edge is 'sharp' or perhaps the arris is not smoothed off during manufacture. Anyway we just smoothed it of with some emery paper and it's not been a problem since.

DLM

richardhomer said:

I'd check for sharp edges on the saddles - I doubt anything more elaborate is necessary.

In my case at least, the strings were demonstrably breaking at the bridge-plate exit point, not on top of the saddles.