Fixing a ding in a Walnut Stain Gretsch 5122

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I've just bought this Gretsch 5122 with a bit of a ding in the side - I knew it was there when I bought so it's not a surprise but after some advice on the best way to fix it. The ding is a dent about 1cm round, it's pushed back the wood a bit but hasn't gone through the body. I will try and upload a photo later to make it clearer.

I was planning on filling it with sawdust (possibly maple to match the original wood), staining it then a layer off super glue over the top scraped back with a razor blade then micro mesh sanded. 

Does that approach sound like it should work? Do I need to worry about what sawdust I use (is it worth sourcing a piece of maple)? Would a water based stain like this work to try and colour match it - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bolgers-WATER-BASED-Wood-Stain-Dye-Black-Blue-Green-Red-Oak-Mahogany-Walnut-/121672623434?var=420678263138&hash=item1c5440e54a:m:mgfhqaV071qozYLHa2Ex7fQ

I'm not too worried about making it seamless but want to repair it to protect it from spreading and make it look and feel a little tidier.

Any help much appreciated!
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Comments

  • impmannimpmann Frets: 12766
    First thing - a pic of the damaged area might help... ;-)
    Never Ever Bloody Anything Ever.

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  • MrTMrT Frets: 21
    Sorry - should have posted these with the above! Are you able to see these photos?

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  • impmannimpmann Frets: 12766
    Although that looks like its cracked the wood, would steam help that? @ICBM any thoughts?
    Never Ever Bloody Anything Ever.

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  • WezVWezV Frets: 17462
    Depends if wood fibres are torn and if the sides are laminate or solid.

    I assume laminate from the damage so would not be happy steaming.

    Assuming it all feels solid I would be looking to fill that with a good quality epoxy dyed the same colour as the guitar, or a shade or two lighter before a final coat of lacquer.

    I would want to avoid being invasive, but there are some good acoustic repair techniques which allow you to pull the wood back to shape first.... The issue here is access to the inside
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  • octatonicoctatonic Frets: 34308
    edited March 2016
    Yes a Gretsch 5122 is laminate (maple IIRC) so steaming isn't an option.

    I would fashion a replacement piece and cleat underneath, then do a partial refinish over the affected area.
    Not really a repair for an amateur though.

    To the OP- if you want some information on cleating then let me know and I can post it here for you.
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  • ICBMICBM Frets: 74396
    edited March 2016
    That's a very awkward one to fix. Even getting at the inside of it to push it back will be difficult, although you might manage with a long dowel through the f-hole.

    I would do what WezV said with epoxy - although I'd soak the dent with superglue first to try to stabilise what is certain to be fragmented ply inside. Keep a watch on the inside with a light and a mirror so you don't overdo it.

    The only good news is that it's not an enormously expensive guitar, and the damage is in one of the least visible possible parts of it - more or less hidden both when it's on a stand and on a strap.

    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

    "Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein

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  • MrTMrT Frets: 21
    Thanks all for the comments - you're right, it's not an expensive guitar and it's going to be played so I'm not worried too much about a perfect fill. 

    A couple of quick questions - if I was going to attempt this myself what's the best epoxy to use? Is there a certain dye I should use? 

    Alternatively, can anyone recommend anyone down in South Devon it's worth taking it too?

    Cheers,
    Tim
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  • Andyjr1515Andyjr1515 Frets: 3129
    MrT said:
     if I was going to attempt this myself what's the best epoxy to use? 
    Personally, I would use Z-poxy 30-minute.  It sets nice and hard and is relatively good sanding.

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  • WezVWezV Frets: 17462
    edited March 2016
    Andyjr1515;1012094" said:
    MrT said:

     if I was going to attempt this myself what's the best epoxy to use? 










    Personally, I would use Z-poxy 30-minute.  It sets nice and hard and is relatively good sanding.
    That or west systems for me, but Zpoxy will be cheaper.

    I warm the bottles in hot water before mixing for a nice flow. You can tint it with a spirit based stain. If you mix it in a clear glass jar in small amounts you should get a good idea of the colour

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  • MrTMrT Frets: 21
    Thanks guys - I'll order some zpoxy.

    It might be a newbie but should the stain just be a wood stain? Or should it be an epoxy pigment?

    Also should I fill to the top then fine grit sand and buff? Or would it be best to still top with lacquer?
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  • @MrT, sounds like you're not going to need it, but if you do happen to need a small bit of maple I've got a bit left over from making a bridge plate for my acoustic.  I'm unlikely to use it but didn't want to throw it away, so if you need it you're welcome to have it (either by post or meet up somewhere - sounds like we're quite local to each other)
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  • MrTMrT Frets: 21
    Cheers @DartmoorHedgehog but I think I'm going to go down the epoxy route. I've already soaked the dent in superglue which seems to have stablised it somewhat. I just need to find a suitable stain to dye the epoxy although part of my wonders if I should just leave it clear and if that would look better than a mismatched colour. I'm assuming the epoxy will dry clear - might have to do a test.
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  • MrT said:
    Cheers @DartmoorHedgehog but I think I'm going to go down the epoxy route. I've already soaked the dent in superglue which seems to have stablised it somewhat. I just need to find a suitable stain to dye the epoxy although part of my wonders if I should just leave it clear and if that would look better than a mismatched colour. I'm assuming the epoxy will dry clear - might have to do a test.
    No worries, I thought that's what you were probably going to do.  I know what you mean about mismatch vs purposely not matched.  Not that I've ever fixed anything like this before, but I think if it was mine I'd be inclined to stabilise what's there to stop it getting worse rather than attempting a perfect match (certainly with a DIY repair with my limited experience in such things).  As somebody mentioned earlier, it's not visible most of the time anyway.

    Nice looking guitar BTW, I'm quite envious :)
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  • MrTMrT Frets: 21
    I don't mind the odd ding and scratch on a guitar when you buy it as it saves you feeling so sick when you put the first one in your self! Thanks for the compliment - I took a chance on this ding being salvageable as it meant I got the upgrades (TV Jones classics, compton bridge) all in at a reasonable price. 

    I'll have to do a test when the epoxy turns up and see how it dries - if it dries clear then I might be inclined just to drop a little stain onto the exposed wood fragment then just fill it.
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