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To remove the wood, you really want a router. But the first time i did it was with a drill bit and chisels. I made a total mess of it. But you might not be as impatient or as clumsy as I am.
No need to change pots or switches unless you want to put a tone pot on the humbucker or use fancy wiring options.
Most people aren't and won't though.
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Football is rubbish.
Bear in mind that if you think so because it's a particular favourite guitar, routing it may well change the sound of it, in an unpredictable way… and is often not reversible, sometimes not even if you patch the hole.
If you love the neck on that one, consider buying another body.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
So, if you are set upon fitting a full size humbucker I would start by getting a pickguard. In the past I have had a pickguard where the bridge pickup hole was far to close to the bridge mounting screws (it was from StewMac, quite a few years ago), so take a little care to avoid one like that.
A suitable pickguard will show you where to rout and the depth will likely be the same as the existing routing. Just make sure you purchase a humbucker with short legs - routing for a humbucker with long legs is a nightmare given the proximity of the trem spring rout on the back of the guitar. As for pickup polepiece spacing, that depends on your bridge, though typically you will want a trembucker/ F-spaced pickup (regular spaced pickups do work OK with narrow spaced bridges such as Mexican std Strats though).
The routing is pretty straightforward with a template and a bearing guided bit. I mark out where the template will go and cut through the lacquer with a sharp knife prior to routing. I also use masking tape just behind the cut edge. These two tasks help to stop lacquer chipping at the edge of the rout, and if it does chip the tape holds the piece so a little super glue can be run under the chip to re-secure it. And of course, use a sharp bit, work slowly in shallow passes, move the bit in the correct direction to its rotation etc etc.
http://www.thefretboard.co.uk/discussion/89942/caspercaster#latest
http://www.thefretboard.co.uk/discussion/89942/caspercaster#latest