Despite having played short scale basses exclusively for many years, I've always had a yen to get a Ric and now might the time. I know very little about them though and haven't laid hands on one for many years and then briefly. I'm not able to try one out where I'm living so it'll be a case of try and return if it doesn't suit.
My main concern is with the neck - should I go for maple or rosewood, do they have their own sound?
Is it possible to find a rosewood board that isn't lacquered? Most if not all I'm looking at appear to have a gloss neck finish on the fretboard, something I really don't like.
I'm pretty certain I'll go with the soft contoured body and dot inlays, are there any issues I should think about or look out for in making a choice? Ideally, I'd like a walnut body with rosewood unlacquered fretboard but I'm not seeing any of these around in my searches.
Is there much variation in neck shape, do certain years have slimmer necks for instance?
Any advice and or tips gratefully received.
Comments
Regular production 4003 basses have rosewood fingerboards. A maple fingerboard usually indicates a special edition instrument. (e.g. The walnut version.) Gloss varnish on the fingerboard is Rick's way.
I think the neck itself is maple regardless of the fingerboard.
There are variances in the neck shape; I've played some which are too big and others which are nice and slim.
The "S" and "CS" versions are the round-edged ones without binding, but I can't say I have a particular preference.
As far as issues go - check it's straight (you can look along it and also just play the thing!) and whether the tailpiece has the dreaded "tail-lift" (the tension of the strings can start to pull the ehd of the tailpiece away from the body.
Also make sure that the bass is a real Ric; I've been to see one which turned out to be a copy!
The Ric 4000 family bass guitar isn't a sound. It's a way of life. (You'll love it.)
I suggest that you listen carefully to the Rush album, Moving Pictures. On each composition, try to work out whether bassist Geddy Lee is using a Rick or the Fender Jazz Bass with which he later became strongly associated.
I'm not suggesting Moving Pictures as a demonstration of the Rick bass sound. I want you to decide for yourself whether you can tell any difference between brands R and F.
FYI, Moving Pictures is probably my favourite album; Vital Signs is a lot easier to play on a Jazz than a Ric.
If you want to get Geddy playing a Ric, listen to the A Farewell To Kings album.
I regret selling my CIJ Mustang bass. They've doubled in value since I sold mine..
If you want the contoured body (ie no binding on the front) you want a 4001S, 4003S (neither made any more) or a reissue 4001V63 or C64 - these will usually cost more than a non-reissue model mostly due to the 'horseshoe' bridge pickup (which is expensive) and toaster neck pickup.
The S version also has dot inlays instead of triangles, and no stereo outputs, and has the normal pickups.
There was a limited edition 4003 with a walnut body and a maple fingerboard, which is maybe what you're thinking of… it came in both the bound version and the S version.
There's also the 4004C, which has a walnut body and an unlacquered maple fingerboard, but doesn't look like a classic Rick bass - no pickguard, only two knobs, and more modern pickups and bridge.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
Are you certain? The 4003S appears on Rickenbacker's web site.
http://www.rickenbacker.com/model.asp?model=4003S
It's the walnut version I'm currently considering, I like a natural wood finish. If I was able to find an old 4001, would it have a slimmer neck?
Thanks for all the info, it's very helpful.
I (also) think the 4003S is a current model in the range (and I further think its neck isn't lacquered).
I'm almost certain the fingerboard will be lacquered though - it's usually only the oil-finished models which aren't.
I'm also interested to see that RIC are listing the fingerboard wood on all the models as rosewood - it always used to be bubinga. If they've changed, that would be an odd choice given the new CITES rules - although bubinga may also be covered anyway, since it is a related wood.
Yes.
Be careful with old Rickenbackers (pre-1985) though - they have the original truss rod design which is prone to being damaged by being adjusted wrongly. They're repairable, but it can be a bit of a pain. In extreme cases it can crack the fingerboard away from the neck too...
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
Then I saw this -
4001C64. It's a 2010 model with the reverse headstock, which looks a little weird but it ticks all my boxes. Deal done. The waiting really is the hardest part (it's coming from Italy). Fingers crossed for a safe transit.
The Music Trading Company, 21 Lion Street, Rye, East Sussex, TN31 7LB
01797 222966
I thought I saw a Ricky or two hanging on the wall when we were in Rye about two months ago. Not sure if they were guitars or basses.....Nil Satis Nisi Optimum
Glad to hear it got here safely though, that's the main thing. A scraper and some wire wool will sort out the fingerboard if you really don't like it...
According to their website they have no basses, but three guitars - two of which are at bonkers prices! Although that may just be normal for new Ricks now, I haven't looked for a while.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
My main concern is adjusting the truss rod, I've never done it on a dual rod system. I've done some. reading etc, including the Ric manual (v brief) and Joey's Rickenbacker pages (much more helpful). Taking it very gradually seems to be the advice. I assume I need to adjust both rods equally at all times (there's no twist in the neck and back bow is v slight (I'm kinda hoping taking the strings to pitch may resolve it).