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I don't know what evo gold is though!
Rob.
Expect to pay more for fret work, but at least you won't need it doing so often.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
It's that zingy thing that really puts me off, I'm into vintage tone so I don't think I'll use them, I don't need more sustain or top end either which some say it improves
I'll probably try evo as it seem a good compromise for my future builds
(formerly customkits)
Overly bright, can be unforgiving and scrapey to bend, but plus side, very good for tappers.
Do not like.
*An Official Foo-Approved guitarist since Sept 2023.
The only thing I tap is my foot
I know now I'm not ever using them on my guitars
(formerly customkits)
If you like a vintage Tone then you may want to stay clear of stainless - and definitely avoid on an already bright guitar
When using stainless or EVO gold you find that tools don't actually CUT the wire - they provide enough force till it shears
It can be hard on the tools and the tech using them and the reasons that most techs charge more for installing it are - the extra cost of the wire, the extra time it may take to install over a nickel silver wire and having two replace tools so much quicker as a result of using that wire.
Many guitars have a re-sale value. Some you'll never want to sell.
Stockist of: Earvana & Graphtech nuts, Faber Tonepros & Gotoh hardware, Fatcat bridges. Highwood Saddles.
Pickups from BKP, Oil City & Monty's pickups.
Expert guitar repairs and upgrades - fretwork our speciality! www.felineguitars.com. Facebook too!
I've been using Japanese heavy nickel wire out of touchstone and i like it alot but it's always good to try something else
I've got a couple to try them on anyway
I just keep seeing people say refret only with ss which doesn't suit everyone that's why I asked and it seems my conclusion is the same as most on here
(formerly customkits)
I have them on two guitars and I absolutely love them, they feel really smooth and slidey on bends. Having said that, I wouldn't want to install them myself!
I like jescar, it is noticeably harder than many of the standard sources, but not so hard it kills tools.
Stainless is okay for levelling and dressing with some diamond tools and a lot of polishing - relatively painless. Stainless bends into a radius okay with normal tools, but most fret cutters and nippers will start to perish pretty quickly. Stew-mac claim theirs works on SS frets - but I have 2 sets of very worn ones which suggest otherwise
Instagram
Stainless can take an absolutely mirror-smooth polish if you do it properly.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
Evo is around 250 and SS around 300 on the hardness scale
It could all be rubbish though as I read it on the interweb
(formerly customkits)
I do not need more top end or sustain and note definition either like some say ss improves
I don't want that zing either as it would annoy the hell out of me too
It's down to playing styles and choices not sub standard workmanship like you've suggested
(formerly customkits)
buy some cheap fretwire and you may find it too soft. This makes it hard to install evenly, it wears easier, and it doesn't hold its shine as long.
i have thrown stuff away for being noticeably soft
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I'm not doing ss that's for sure but I will be trying jescar nickel and evo just to see for myself what it's like, it's the tone I'm interested too
(formerly customkits)
So if a guitar needs refretting in less than five years of normal use then I would consider that the builder had used substandard fretwire.