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some prefer smaller ones to play through a PA, or because they are easier to mic up, but if your primary intention is playing at home, go for what sounds good to you. I like extra bass, and I use less nail and more skin on the bass strings, which may be why larger bodies work for me
https://www.mitchellguitars.co.uk
My YouTube Channel
Two of the most famous Scottish luthiers are Bill Kelday & Taran (Rory Dowling). Kelday starts from £4.5k, Taran a bit less but not far from that. Kelday is in the Martin style/traditional side of things, Taran more in the Sobell side of things.
Adam
First up is playing style - pretty much with ya on that TC.
Body size (guitar) I play seated and (was) six feet before gravity started getting the better of me, so I like the jumbo / SJ body as my right upper arm lays on the lower bout and my right hand falls over the sound hole where it can move back or forward to modify tone. - see my vids.
In saying that I got a wee 000 far east made for a knock about - it plays and sound very good though I may try a 2 to three inch ‘pad’ on the lower bout - to raise my arm to my preferred position.
My hit list / meh list, would be similar to yours TC - well as near as damn it, I'v had two from your prefered list for a looooong time.
A thing that I instantly recognize is string plane lay out and how it ‘works’ with neck / fingerboard - that can define what the instrument will allow me to do (without thinking about my l/h).
I was in Devon a good few years ago and visited the Brook workshop, they coincidentally were getting ready for some guitar show and gad amassed over a dozen of their instruments and although Im not a parlor kinda guy I preferred what they were doing with wee body’d guitars to their bigger instruments.
Ergonomics...
Body size ... Has to be om or smaller for me.
Neck shape & fretboard flatness - I can't comment. Too round isn't my thing. Too flat seems like an electric.
Of course I need to go play more more more..
My YouTube Channel
My YouTube Channel
My YouTube Channel
Most are fine with 11s, which I use, but I think some will need thicker strings to bring out the best sound (12s or 13s - always best to ask).
Because I use 11s, when I drop the bottom E to D, it loses tension, and the tone, so I use thicker gauges for dropped strings when I use alternate tunings, or instead of DADGAD, I use one semitone up from DADGAD: which maintains roughly the same overall tension on the top
As a dramatic example of this, my tenor guitar (23 inch 4 string) arrived tuned CGDA, which is the standard tuning, the dedicated set for which is: D’addario J66 Bronze: 10, 14, 22, 32 (v. high tension on A and D). This set is so tight, that I broke 50% of the top 2 strings I fitted whilst tuning up for the first time (I never break any strings normally, I have electrics with the same strings on for years). In addition, the tension is so high that those 2 top strings are much louder than the 2 bass strings, and are very shrill and piercing, which could work well in a pub jam, but sounds pretty awful on its own. Changing to 32 / 20 / 12 / 8, the strings stop breaking, and it sounds better. However, it sounds much better tuned down 2 semitones to: A# F C G (using 32/34, 22, 13, 10), much woodier and balanced
Also, shops can't afford to restring acoustics frequently, so many on display have strings that have gone dull, so when trying out brands, keep an eye out for that. Some brands come with coated strings, so are more predictable, e.g. Taylor I think.
As a consequence I currently have a lovely Avalon tuned in DAAEAE
I like to have a few guitars left in different tunings, I find it very inspiring to just wing it with each of them, instead of playing in one tuning that I know well all the time.
If it's good enough for Joni Mitchell....
Speak more of your commission! What specs did you go for?
I love Brook Guitars, played about 10-15 of them and they have all been wonderful.
Good choice @ThorpyFX