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The good news is that you only have to do it once, so if you’re not confident about doing it yourself you can get a professional job done and then you can adjust the truss rod and bridge yourself as necessary later.
I’m also in the don’t-measure-it camp - I check the nut height by fretting each string at the third fret and checking the gap between the string and the first fret (aim for 1/10-1/4 of the string diameter), the relief by fretting the G string at the first and usually the 17th fret (first over the body) and looking at the gap at the 7th-8th frets (aim for under half the string diameter) and the bridge height by playing bent notes at the 12th-15th fret and checking for choking. Then tweak until it feels and sounds right if that all doesn’t quite work straight away.
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Some very useful tips here.
May I ask how much play there tends to be in dual-action truss rods? Reason I ask is that my first home-built has a *very* flexible neck - I got a little carried away with the carving. I think I have the nut slots at an appropriate depth (perhaps room for a little deeper, but only a smidge), but the action I feel is still too high. It might be that the neck is just settling down after a couple of years of not being used, now that it has a lower-set bridge.
However, I don't want to keep tweaking the truss rod until I hear the *snap* of a thread being destroyed.
So, any pointers to how far the rod can be adjusted?
Cheers, Adam