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Do the valves glow less or not at all when it goes quiet? If so it's that.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
Mark there did some bits to it (not sure) and it is now fine. Well worth a try.
It's a super sounding amp, and very loud too so I was glad to get it fixed. Hope you get yours sorted @antifash
The other problem I had, that DV247 fixed under their in-store 5 yr warranty, could match the OP's symptoms. There was a loose connection on the ceramic tube holder of one of the power tubes that meant the amp lost its volume and went distorted even at lower volumes. DV247 also replaced the cheap red 'on' light and installed a really good quality one.
Since those two fixes my Cub has been perfect. I re-tubed it and replaced the crappy Chinese Ruby tubes with a full set of JJ hand-tested tubes, and swapped the rubbish 95dB Celestion Rocket 50 with a Vintage 30. What a difference in volume, clean and crunch tones! It's a smashing little amp that's deceptively loud - the Vintage 30 with its 100dB sensitivity probably makes it nearer equivalent to a 20-25w amp in volume.
It even extends to things like the poor quality of the covering vinyl and the glue that holds it on - I know this will sound like nit-picking, but not only does it lead to the amps looking tatty quickly, it's a major pain in the backside for techs - it often gets snagged on the chassis and makes taking the amp apart and putting it back together a time-wasting faff. The B&Q quality screws and crap handles are another sign of corner-cutting.
Internally they aren't much better - even though a lot of people go on about how the valve sockets are chassis-mounted (on a lot of models) it's missing the point - I've come across many joints that were never properly soldered, and sockets so poor that the contacts need re-tensioning after *one* valve change. Weak transformers, and poor solutions to that like thermistors in the filament circuit also quite often cause trouble.
I know this won't make me popular!
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein