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Comments
I was hoping that someone like ICBM might have some suggestions.
I have also tried to get at the socket from the front by removing the grill & speaker but there are components in the way which are attached from the rear so that didn"t work.
I have emailed Roland"s tech support but their advice is to take/send it to a Roland dealer or the Roland repair centre.
It is only a snapped plug & if I could get the back off it should be straight forward to get the piece out of the input socket.
Depending on the type of jack it isn’t a certainty you’ll be able to get at it even from the inside either - Roland usually use ‘box’ jacks which you can’t get into.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
There are 10 machine bolts holding the back panel on (nothing underneath or on top).
When you remove them the panel will come away from the cabinet freely maybe 5-8mm but no more.
It definitely doesen"t feel like it is still being held on with a fixing but rather wires if that makes sense which is why I am afraid to force it.
The speaker was held on by screws & sticky tape stuff, which I had to gently lever off but there is no sticky tape holding the back panel on.
If I can"t get the broken plug tip out then soldering on a new input would not be a problem for me providing I can gain access.
If so I would look at other ways of getting the broken plug out - how much is left in the jack, the whole shaft or just the tip?
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
Personally I always just drill broken jacks out using a dremel and very small drill bit. In my world (laptops, iPads, Playstation controllers) everything 3.5mm so a bit more fiddly, larger broken jacks in sockets are a lot easier
If the broken jack has a tip 'rod' which is a tube - many cheaper ones do - you may be able to thread a very small self-tapping screw directly into it. If not, you'll need to drill.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
I drilled a pilot hole down the centre of the snapped off plug (plastic centre) then put a very small screw in a few turns & pulled the screw out drawing out the metal outer & what was left of the inner plastic of the broken plug.
Thanks again
You wouldn't believe how little it can take to write off some - even quite good - modern amps as being uneconomical to repair, because of the way they're built...
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
Your description of bundles of wires glued into holes " there may be a bundle of wires going through a hole in the cabinet to the space containing the speaker " is exactly what the resistance to getting the back panel off felt like to me.
The monitor seems to be quite well made but it seems that no provision for disassembling for repairs had been factored in to the build.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein