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With Warmoth budget £74 for a CITES import certificate for rosewood. Takes about 2 weeks to receive once you've applied.
http://www.warmoth.com/Guitar/Necks/NeckWoods.aspx
Might be easier to contract a UK builder to build the neck. Probably cost less overall.
I don't have any problem with the 7.25" radius. I currently have 4 Classic Series guitars and I've managed to set them up pretty well with minimal choking (only on extreme bends high up the neck). When I pick up a 10" or especially a 12" radius guitar now it feels concave for a few minutes. All part of the classic Fender experience for me.
Let us know how the neck feels on your Strat - I have the same model in sunburst and it's thinner than all the other Classic Series necks I've had. It's a nice neck to play but I prefer a bit more wood, like my older Classic 60s Strat had. Maybe mine is a one-off that got sanded down a bit too much at the factory.
It's quite simple geometry, whether you CARE or not depends on your playing style and setup preference.
You don't want too low an action on any radius of board though. If you dig into the strings a bit, they will buzz if the action is too low.
At a sensible action, 7.25" is fine.
I like my action as low as I can get it without buzz, on a flat or compound radius - Playing arpeggios where the strings are all at different heights is annoying and I appreciate it's a small difference, but it still makes things more difficult.
Vintage thin frets are not great full for pull-offs/hammer-ons, getting under the string for bends, or sometimes slides.
Doesn't affect much on a Bass, but it's not practical on a guitar. Tokai make one with medium frets and it feels massively better and I would take that over a nitro finish any day.
Grover Jackson sorted the strat out in the late 70s.
Ive heard stories of this happening, almost without the artist knowing. But the tech new they liked a particular feel.
I believe Rory G played a 7.25 but it was actually flattened to 9.5.
Whilst there I tried a compound radius too. I really disliked it. It was way too flat for
my tastes. It also had jumbo frets, which I hadn’t played before. It all felt a bit “floaty” to me. I get why a shredder could make use of it, but didn’t feel comfortable to me.
Fairly sure he means the frets. Tall fretwire will let you tweak the radius a bit, at the expense of a few years fret life. you can also make them a compound radius so its flatter up the top end where it gets less wear
I have just put new frets in one that was low all over, but noticeably lower down the middle. not the first I have seen levelled like that
Changing the board radius is a definite no-no on veneer boards
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Ive looked at my other guitars and don’t notice this on them. I can’t tell yet if it’s going to be an annoying problem. Does anyone have a view on this?