I need to choose a bridge for my GSP LP Jr DC...currently the number one choice is a Graphtech Resomax bridge like the ones that come on Feline Lioncubs.
They're a bit pricey though at about £120 and I'm wondering if I'd really notice any benefit over a Gotoh 510 UB which costs about £55. Anyone with any experience of either or both of these?
Or should I be looking at something else entirely? I'm not really bothered about historical accuracy relating to Gibsons. More interested in the best tone and functionality especially with regard to intonation.
Bonus question...I've currently just about completed a standard cherry red type finish but I have a spare can of shoreline gold rattling around (literally). Would it be complete and utter heresy to throw a coat of that on and then semi-relic to reveal the cherry finish underneath a la Fender CS colour over sunburst finishes?
Comments
Just check the height of the Gotoh unit and check the clearance under the strings.
On a genuine doublecut Junior, it is conventional for the studs to be positioned at different distances from the nut.
On some Gibson solid body guitars with a wrapover bridge, the studs are equidistant from the bridge. In this instance, on Gibson non-adjustable bridges, a preset intonation ridge is cast into the metal. (Usually referred to as the "lightning bolt".)
My money went on a pre-owned Mojoaxe one-piece bridge. I happen to prefer the sound of a non-adjustable bridge.
+1 for the Mojoaxe wrap around.
And I'm a big fan of the relic'd colour of colour with the worn through look. Subject to it all being done "tastefully" in the correct wear areas
The issue that Tony is highlighting relates to the neck pitch angle. This will determine the line that the strings take above the body and, hence, the range of height adjustment needed for any particular bridge design.
Those modern designs with individually adjustable saddles tend to resemble a wrapover bar with Tune-o-Matic saddles set in their tops. This increases the overall height of the bridge/tailpiece.
If the neck pitch angle errs on the shallow side, the string path may not leave enough clearance above the body for the modern bridge/tailpiece.
These are the specs for the Gotoh bridge...I had also measured the height of the P90 pickup cover I'm going to use and that was roughly 13mm. So given that I'd want the strings to clear the pickup by a couple of mm I would hope this is in the right ballpark? The actual guitar wasn't to hand for me to measure since it was still curing out in the shed but I'll check it tonight.
Not a biggy - but if it's a concern for you - I put the cardboard from the strings package under the bridge when re-stringing. Then the end of the string doesn't scratch the body when you poke the string through the holes in the bridge.
The position of the posts are set to take a vintage type wrap over bridge, this should suit most wrap over bridges. However, if I know I compensated bridge is going to be used, then generally the post positions will be a slightly different angle (less).
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Many guitars have a re-sale value. Some you'll never want to sell.
Stockist of: Earvana & Graphtech nuts, Faber Tonepros & Gotoh hardware, Fatcat bridges. Highwood Saddles.
Pickups from BKP, Oil City & Monty's pickups.
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Many guitars have a re-sale value. Some you'll never want to sell.
Stockist of: Earvana & Graphtech nuts, Faber Tonepros & Gotoh hardware, Fatcat bridges. Highwood Saddles.
Pickups from BKP, Oil City & Monty's pickups.
Expert guitar repairs and upgrades - fretwork our speciality! www.felineguitars.com. Facebook too!
Many guitars have a re-sale value. Some you'll never want to sell.
Stockist of: Earvana & Graphtech nuts, Faber Tonepros & Gotoh hardware, Fatcat bridges. Highwood Saddles.
Pickups from BKP, Oil City & Monty's pickups.
Expert guitar repairs and upgrades - fretwork our speciality! www.felineguitars.com. Facebook too!