It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!
Subscribe to our Patreon, and get image uploads with no ads on the site!
Base theme by DesignModo & ported to Powered by Vanilla by Chris Ireland, modified by the "theFB" team.
Comments
Replace with wirewounds and they will withstand a valve short for long enough for the HT fuse to blow.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
How do they get those right-angles - is it solid, single conductor wire?
Why are the turrets blue?
The first thing I did when I brought my 1959HW was to look inside and enjoy the build !
<a href="https://imgur.com/28qaS4E"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/28qaS4E.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>
Each solder joint is independently inspected and signed off with a blue mark. It’s a level of QC rarely found today.
A similar thing is done in high-performance automotive engine assembly where every nut/bolt is marked with a paint pen after being torqued to the correct spec.
Rift Amplification
Brackley, Northamptonshire
www.riftamps.co.uk
So, took a look at Hiwatt’s documentation and read this:
The famed sound of Hiwatt is achieved by setting the Volume controls high and blasting your neighbors!
Hmmmm, but in the next paragraph:
It is not to be used as a “weapon of aural destruction”!
Ah, okay then.
His serial no is 5194, also a Hylight one and would appear to be from 1974 but it's not as clean as yours.
Going to get my colleague Steve to look at this. He is building his first Hiwatt 103 clone and doing a good job. But this is the bees knees
(formerly miserneil)