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Better solution - replace the switch.
Best solution - replace the wah with one that doesn't use a mechanical true bypass switch.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
I'll check they have (or can get) a Carling switch, I'm out of DPDT ones.
Unless you want it de-true-bypassed of course .
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
Theoretically non true bypass is more reliable - because the signal only has to pass through one switch contact not two, so there's half as much chance of failure. But in practice it doesn't make much difference - in the last two weeks I've replaced or repaired the switches on two standard Cry Babies as well. (Non true bypass with Carling SPDT switches.) You can do better by using a DPDT with the poles wired in parallel though - that means you need a failure of both contacts at the same time to break the signal path.
But do you really want non-true bypass? Unless you're running the wah after a buffer, it will probably suck tone... a standard wah circuit does, even to the point it would probably bother me! And I don't normally mind that much.
To be honest you're probably as well to first try adjusting and/or cleaning the original switch - chances are it's just set wrong so a slight touch from the pedal half-presses the switch and lifts the contacts without fully switching it. If that fails, replace with a new DPDT.
Mechanical signal switching is a fundamental problem, it's never going to be 100% reliable. It's one of the major reasons why standard true bypass is a bad method.
That's partly why I like the Dunlop 535 so much - it uses buffered switching with a simple SPST switch, so it doesn't have this problem.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein