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i prefer the 3rd fret method
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Just go slow and keep checking if you’re only just starting, took me about 10 to feel a bit more confident about it
Just wondered why some people would do it the other way, it seems a worse way to do it with no benefits. Maybe they genuinely didn't know about the 3rd fret method when they started out and are now in the habit of doing it their own way?
http://www.stewmac.com/How-To/Online_Resources/Learn_About_Guitar_Nut_and_Saddle_Setup_and_Repair/Using_Feeler_Gauges_to_Control_Nut_Slot_Depth.html
I take it you don’t slot with the capo in place?
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@richardhomer @WezV @guitarfishbay
There should be a gap between the string and the first fret - but it should be very slight.
By all means lower the nut slots a reasonable amount if you've fitted a new nut and they are very high, but until you've set up the neck relief and action, don't go for the minimum slot depth. Certainly use that 1st fret capo when checking beck relief with a high nut as that will affect the amount of upward lift the string tension puts on the neck, so your relief setting could well be too flat once you lower the nut slots otherwise. It won't be by a huge amount as the angle change from high to low nut slots isn't that great, but I believe in getting it right to start with if possible.
No, that cannot happen. The neck simply isn't flexible enough between the nut and the first fret to make that possible.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
I've got a feeler gauge, I'll check my Strat which is perfectly set up by Simon Jones to see what gap he has at the first fret and copy that.
It's very difficult, IMO, to do it well because there's such a tiny difference between "could be lower" and the nut being completely ruined. That's why I decided to leave it to the professionals. (nudge @ICBM
Note that I said 'big changes,' not meaning a 1/4 turn tweak. You really aren't thinking this through as it's the distance from the nut to the 3rd fret, not just to the 1st that's being affected. The whole neck geometry is altered and it's all important.
Let's say the neck starts out with a significant amount of relief. You have x amount of bow in the neck between the 3rd and nut. You then set up the nut slot depth leaving your desired height above the 1st fret.
You then adjust the neck relief to be minimal, so that amount of bow between the nut and 3rd fret basically disappears, so the height of the string above the first fret when held down at the 3rd fret is now maybe x/2 lower than before. It's not a huge amount, but if you like your nut slots cut as low as possible, then it can be enough to get the strings buzzing.
It's not the sort of thing I'd do now (starting off with far too much neck relief), but I have experienced it in the past, and had to fit a new nut and start again.
If you cut the nut correctly using the third fret method then it will be correct for any amount of relief, because it will be very slightly higher than the first fret and that cannot be affected by the curvature of the neck over so short a distance. Period.
And I do also like the nut slots to be cut as low as possible, I use 1/4 or less of the string diameter as the guide using the third fret method.
In any case, it's the distance from the *second* fret to the nut over which the string is used as the straight-edge, not the third. The truss rod has virtually no effect that close to its end anyway.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
My Tele is miles off at the moment so got a little bit of filing to do.
Looking again I might need a bit more relief in the neck which is a bit of a pain as I have to keep taking the neck off. Any useful tips?
It's a big pet peeve of mine though, I really don't know why Fender sometimes puts the adjustment at the bottom of the neck rather than at the headstock.
As far as I know there's no benefit, just inconvenience. If anyone knows a good reason (or any reason) please tell me.