Something I've always wondered about string spacing

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mikem8634mikem8634 Frets: 382
Say you're building (or in my case, bolting together) a tele. a strat and a Les Paul, at what point in the process is the string spacing for each one set in stone?

Is it in the routing? String through? Trem cavity? TOM posts?

In the choice of bridge hardware?

In the choice of pickups?

Neck width?

Which thing determines your choice that the other elements then have to fall in line with? At what point is it best to decide?
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Comments

  • Bridge and nut I would say. 
    As long as string through positions are not widely misplaced it shouldn't matter.

    If you look at StewMac's site their bridges are fully dimensioned in detail. Those drawings will give you some idea for planning purposes.
    I sometimes think, therefore I am intermittent
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  • SassafrasSassafras Frets: 30358
    In MD Phillips' case, it's down to finger width.
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  • mikem8634 said:

    Which thing determines your choice that the other elements then have to fall in line with? At what point is it best to decide?
    Ideally, you plan your desired Nut Width/String Spacing, and Bridge String Spacing prior to making the Neck as these factors will determine the shape of the Neck in terms of Neck Width, and also ensure that you can get the correct components. There are a few Bridges that allow for some adjustment of saddle separation, but most, particularly if you're thinking of a Bridge with notched saddles, are essentially fixed in terms of string separation.  
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  • ICBMICBM Frets: 74494
    Neck width sets the upper limit for string spacing, or the Es tend to fall off - this is a common problem with traditional Fender dimensions with the standard neck and bridge widths. (I'm currently working on a different guitar which is even worse - it needs a new bridge because there's no way of adjusting it so the Es are far enough in.)

    After that the bridge is the main factor. The nut can be made any spacing you want, but there isn't that much useful variation. Pickups are more or less irrelevant - you can get them in different sizes, and it doesn't matter much anyway - there's no difference in output as long as the strings pass over any part of the polepieces, and not much even if they don't.

    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

    "Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein

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  • mikem8634mikem8634 Frets: 382
    Interesting. So the consensus seems to be the neck.

    So my next question, as a compulsive bolter-togetherer, is - say you buy a neck, how do you measure it to determine the optimal string spacing for the bridge you need to get?
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  • LastMantraLastMantra Frets: 3826
    I think it depends where you're starting. If you you are buying a kit with bridge etc included then you're going to have to go with what you have. If you're starting from scratch you can build everything around the sizes you prefer. To an extent anyway. 
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  • ICBMICBM Frets: 74494
    mikem8634 said:

    So my next question, as a compulsive bolter-togetherer, is - say you buy a neck, how do you measure it to determine the optimal string spacing for the bridge you need to get?
    You can calculate it. You need to measure the string spacing as you would like it at the nut and at the 12th fret, then add the difference to what you measured at the 12th fret.

    For example if the nut is 44mm wide and you would like 38mm string spacing there, the neck is 50mm wide at the 12th fret and you would like 45mm string spacing there, then you need 52mm spacing at the bridge.

    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

    "Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein

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  • mikem8634mikem8634 Frets: 382
    edited October 2020
    True, @LastMantra ;that's a fair point.

    Now I'm thinking about a couple of identical necks that I've got. If I consider them to be the starting points for upcoming projects how do I calculate the string spacing on the bridges that I need? One project requires a short tele bridge like a cabronita, the other a TOM and a stoptail. All I can currently think to do is buy a bridge, put it on and see if it aligns well, which is the road to expensive mistakes.

    Apologies, this seems to be veering off towards making and modding now.
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  • mikem8634mikem8634 Frets: 382
    Sorry @ICBM i must've been typing when you wrote that.

    I am soooo dense at times. I had to read that about 5 times before I got the formula straight =)

    Cheers, that makes perfect sense now. Genuine lightbulb moment.

    That seems like such an essential piece of information, it is terrifyng that I have ploughed on for ages without considering it.

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  • The other option is to get a roll of cheap paper (wallpaper will do), and draw a full scale drawing of the guitar.
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  • mikem8634mikem8634 Frets: 382
    That's a very cool idea @ArchtopDave. And one I can guilt my arty niece into doing for me.
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  • Personally I find some guitars dont have enough reveal (the distance between the E strings and fingerboard edge) for me. I cant use them coz I push the strings off the edge. For that reason I cant own a Fender Tele. 

    This Schaller 3D-6 bridge permits string spacing adjustment. Those roller saddles are on threaded splines for that reason. I bought one for a build I'm planning. 

    PS The slotted screw at the bottom is to lock the saddle cradles in place.


    I sometimes think, therefore I am intermittent
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  • mikem8634mikem8634 Frets: 382
    That's an interesting shout indeed @merciful-evans. Looks like it might be on a Ric Dakota. Rickenbacker and string spacing is a thorny issue for some. I spent a good portion of my proper playing years on a Ric 330, so it's a comfortable feeling for me. A bridge that can do that could be a very useful prospect. Not cheap I imagine, and I don't currently have a project that needs a top loader like that, but it could certainly be one for the very near future. I'll keep my eyes open. Cheers for the heads up.
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  • usedtobeusedtobe Frets: 3842
    Personally I find some guitars dont have enough reveal (the distance between the E strings and fingerboard edge) for me. I cant use them coz I push the strings off the edge. For that reason I cant own a Fender Tele. 

    This Schaller 3D-6 bridge permits string spacing adjustment. Those roller saddles are on threaded splines for that reason. I bought one for a build I'm planning. 

    PS The slotted screw at the bottom is to lock the saddle cradles in place.


    I’ve used that Schaller bridge on two of my self builds.
     so if you fancy a reissue of a guitar they never made in a colour they never used then it probably isn't too overpriced.

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  • mikem8634mikem8634 Frets: 382
    Actually not as pricey as I thought. Hmmm.
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  • JeremiahJeremiah Frets: 660
    Schaller also make a roller tuneomatic with the rollers going from side to side to adjust string spacing like the one above.
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  • mikem8634mikem8634 Frets: 382
    Jeremiah said:
    Schaller also make a roller tuneomatic with the rollers going from side to side to adjust string spacing like the one above.

    Now that is cool. I've got a tuneomatic project coming up. Thanks.
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