After success with my last build, a LP Jr DC, I'm moving on to a full fat LP.
Not sure yet on finish, but the layout will be like the mockups below - wraparound bridge, bridge humbucker, neck P90, 3 way switch, master volume, master tone.
Bound body, unbound neck, full carved top. It will also be fully chambered, using the same pattern as the Gibson chambered reissues.
Debating on knob position - the blue example shows the traditional 'Junior' knob position, but this isn't ideal for access and I think looks a little odd. I think I'm going to position them more like the other examples.
Got mahogany blanks for the neck and body, and pre-slotted indian rosewood fretboard from Guitars and Woods, they look really nice quality. Need to source a top and waiting for David Dyke to send me some pics of their stock. If you have any other recommendations for thick maple caps, let me know!
Also made some progress on making templates for the body, chambers and a full set of top carve templates.
Wish me luck!
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Some of the Spanish suppliers have BF deals on and ship free whilst we are still in the EU LOL.
https://maderasbarber.com/tonewood/en/1204-carved-tops
https://www.madinter.com/en/woodstock-the-best-unique-woods-for-guitar/tops-soundboards-etm/comprarpor/electric_guitar.html
I also picked up a couple of nice pieces from Stewmac pricey but the wood and service was good and used there club shipping and combined a few tools with a friend.
https://www.stewmac.com/tonewoods/shop-tonewood-by-the-piece/?facet=|woodfigure:flame|woodpart:sndbrdtops
Solid colour or a burst?
if you haven't done it before you will be surprised how easy the templates make the carving process
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I route the binding ledge most of the way round using a normal router at the same stage I do the ledges. Then i do the cutaway bit with a stew-mac dremel router attachment after the carve is done.
https://www.stewmac.com/luthier-tools-and-supplies/tools-by-job/tools-for-binding/binding-router-guide.html
i'm not a big fan of this tool, but it works for small areas
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Had a bit of tearout on the first pass, ok, no biggie, that will sand out. Started climb routing to prevent it and that worked.
Flipped it over, did the same and disaster struck
It's too deep to lose in the roundover and i wanted a natural finish on the back. Any ideas on how to fix it or should I order another blank?
Was thinking of routing out a section and patching in with some similar grain, feasible?
Bit extreme ordering a new blank no? If you have the offcut from the same area it's definitely worth splicing in a patch. For some reason I feel like I'd attempt to chisel it on an angle, like a scarf joint, rather than a routed patch as it might soften the junction of the repair.
No forget that it's deeper than 5mm
I think I may rout out a chunk and match in an offcut. I was thinking about doing it like a chamfer, but actually i think that it will get lost in the roundover from the back. just the side will show a patch.
Oh well, it's only for me and a learning process!!
If you fill it, it should be less noticeable by the time its all sanded and rounded over. Maybe enough that it still rules out properly natural, but might work with a darker tobacco tint
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It's best to push on. You don't want to start again only to mess up the next step on new wood. There is no issue here that will make this build a bad guitar.
Learning to fix the mistakes adequately is an important part of the process.... it certainly helps when you need to do actual repairs too
I do abandon some builds when mistakes happen, but rarely at such an early stage
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Maybe try a repair attempt in the scrap first to suss out routing a patch in vs chamfer etc maybe? Might be safer to try that in an offcut before going straight into the repair?
You got this*
*bit of an Americanism, but you know what I mean
If you have an offcut from cutting the body you will probably get a reasonable grain match for a patch but on a clear finish hard not to see. As said a shade or burst edge. I have used thin packing tape as a wall then packed with mahogany dust and then superglue. Again not an invisible repair but it works under a finish and sands out well enough.
Stay positive
the repair is almost invisible and with finishing I don’t think it will be noticeable to anyone else
the repair was a good lesson in how to recover from a problem ( there have been quite a few so far ! )
I would say press on .......once you start playing it and it gets some wear a few small flaws will just add to its character.
My preference is epoxy with dust in this situation.... which just goes to show you have a few options
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