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Hopeful it will be a neat repair. I didn't line up the grain properly in the photo, but did before clamping.
Had the same issue with superglue in the past. It's fine for fretboards but white glue is supposedly better for lighter woods. Hopefully shouldn't need any filling as it's a good fit.
regarding the maple cap question earlier. If you don't mind using "plain" non-figured maple, I've found that some timber merchants will supply you planed hard maple boards in 1/2" to 1" thick dimensions. I bought about 5m of 3/4 inch maple board 9" wide for less than £70. A good option if you don't need book matched caps.
Repair's looking pretty good, might get away with a natural finish after all!
cheers
good call on the epoxy I never seem to have any around which is the preferred one. Totally right about super glue sends mahogany black but it was a solid colour back so mattered little but should be more organised for when this guitar stuff goes wrong
As others have said - an excellent repair, the grain matches up well indeed. If it was me, I would have used a roundover cutter with a greater radius on the back and accepted a 'mid-construction design adjustment'
A proper carve top is on my list for next year. So will also be watching this with interest.
Adam
A bit more progress routing out the cavities. Really need a pillar drill and forstner bits as this took ages with just a router.
I just have done a similar thing on a Little Sister style and have to say need to up my game more like ugly sister at this point lol
Very clean work indeed - looking great. And I like the plain back/coloured top aesthetic too.
The chambered body is very similar to a hollowbody I did a couple of years ago, and a suggestion for next time would be to use a cove cutter for the edge cut of your chamber - this way the sides don't meet the rear at a right angle and is therefore a little stronger. This is something I only thought of after my build though!
I'm a big fan of chambered guitars, partly because of the weight but they have a more 335-ish tone and resonance to them.
Hadn't thought of using a cove cutter, although there's still 1/2 inch of wood all the way around and at on the back so strength shouldn't be an issue.
Here's some more info if you're interested. https://www.mylespaul.com/threads/cloud-9s-or-chambered-reissue-thread.326993/
What bridge are you going for here? wondering why you have gone wider at the bridge location rather than the tailpiece one
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I'm using a Faber wraparound bridge (exactly the same as my Jr build), so I moved the lumps to the bridge location, as that'll be where the 'tailpiece' studs go. I kept the centre block the same size as it would have been with a separate bridge/tailpiece - no particular reason other than keeping it to the chambered reissue formula that supposedly worked well.
The shorter bit is getting a little blunt so have a trend diamond card sharpener on the way, so will see if that helps.
The key for me is getting the templates right beforehand and I added a bigger base plate on the router with some scrap 9mm mdf, which made a huge difference for this job and stopped the router teetering on the thin edges.
Idea stolen from somewhere, I can't remember where, but will give it a whirl tomorrow to thickness the maple cap down to 15mm.
Not worked out how I'll lock the height, thinking I might drill through the back pieces and use a drill bit as a pin.