Modmins, apologies if this is in the wrong place, feel free to point out my error.
I have a PRS Torero, which, having spent some time setting it up, I’m starting to like - a lot! So I’m thinking along the lines of keeping it and upgrading some bits and pieces. Starting with the Floyd Rose, I don’t know if it’s an original FR or an under license FR, I have looked around but can’t find any info that categorically confirms which it is. If it’s an original then I may just replace the block with one that has a greater mass, if it’s an under license one is it worth replacing with a genuine FR? and do they all have the same post spacing? I know the nuts differ but that’s less if an issue and easier to sort.
im also thinking of new machine heads and some ‘meatier’ pickups at some point but one thing at a time.
I know the ad indicates it’s an original FR but some of the articles I’ve read lead me to question it.
If it helps it this one
https://www.thefretboard.co.uk/discussion/195945/no-longer-fs-prs-torero#latest Thanks in advance for any advice.
Comments
To be honest, sometimes user reports are more to do with "I spent more so it's better" (see: all gear in every hobby) so I'd say that, unless your unit is defective or lacking in some way, it's perfectly fine.
A 1000 Series is a genuine, not licenced, Floyd but is not the same as an original, if that makes sense. They’re made in Korea, and I’m not totally sure which parts are compatible with the originals.
I would ask Jonathan @FelineGuitars about which upgrade parts will fit - he has a range of replacement blocks.
But more importantly, from looking at the photos - are you aware that the bridge saddles have been set for left-handed stringing? That will cause major intonation and apparent ‘tuning’ issues. The positions of all the saddles, and the holes in which the black Allen bolts that hold them down are in, need to be reversed - they're a mirror image of where they should be.
And whatever you do with the bridge and nut, don’t bother changing the machineheads - they’re irrelevant on a guitar with a locking nut. The stock ones are fine anyway.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
The Charvel Pro Mod range comes with FR 1000 series as standard, it’s definitely not a bad trem. If yours is staying in tune, then apart from maybe fitting a bigger block I wouldn’t bother with any other changes - I don’t think you’ll notice any difference fitting an OFR
The note about the FR being Korean made along with online reviews is what spurred the question in the first place but from your replies it seems my concern was unfounded. I believe it to be a 1000 series FR but as I bought the guitar used with an unknown history wasn't sure about wear to the the posts etc. thats why I was considering replacing it with an upgrade, but it doesn't seem to be showing any of this issues listed above.
So it looks like I'll be replacing the block the next time I restring it, happy days, more money to spend on pups then.
There is absolutely no way it will intonate correctly with the saddles set like in your pic, or anywhere close. They're literally all in the wrong positions, with the possible exception of the A and B.
It should look like this, on a right-handed guitar -
(With very light strings, the saddle bolts for the A and G might be in the front holes.)
The saddle bolts do need to be done up fairly tight too - the saddles must not slip.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
If yours is not returning 100 percent perfect, it might be worth taking to a local tech when lockdown is over.
A properly set-up Floyd is actually the most tuning-stable of *any* bridge system, even better than a hardtail.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
I’ve seen the image above and have readjusted the bolts and positioned the saddles similarly, but.... top E has just gone ping, so that’s playtime over for today.
Just a point though when I say tuning is ‘fairly stable’ once it’s done it only needs occasional minor adjustment on the fine tuners to keep it there between string changes.
As far as local techs are concerned - the jury is out on that one, I’ve heard some horror stories about some of them that are local to me, I know there will be good ones among them but it’s finding them. I need to learn how to do it myself at some point and this is part of the learning for me.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
Many guitars have a re-sale value. Some you'll never want to sell.
Stockist of: Earvana & Graphtech nuts, Faber Tonepros & Gotoh hardware, Fatcat bridges. Highwood Saddles.
Pickups from BKP, Oil City & Monty's pickups.
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In simple, practical terms, the budget Floyds are prone to wear much sooner than the expensive ones. The critical areas are the knife edge pivoting surfaces on the baseplate and the notches in the pivot posts. This is the usual cause of tuning instability.
Somebody local to me was driven nuts by the FRS on his Charvel San Dimas. He ignored advise to either upgrade the vibrato or block it off. He eventually sold the guitar cheaply and has since purchased a mid-price Jackson.
On any electric guitar with a correctly functioning FR string clamp, changing the machineheads is futile.
For some users, the EMG-81/-85 pair is the epitome of Rock/Metal/Shred pickups. Within their range, the only "meatier" ones are the signature models. (Some like to use the -85 in the bridge position and the -81 in the neck.)
Apart from tuning issues/instability how can I tell if my FR is excessively worn? I hadn’t thought about reversing the pick up installation! Though it may be if I can get the FR sorted all the other ‘perceived’ issues may resolved.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
Don't adjust the posts with the strings at full tension at all - that's the easiest way to wear the knife edges.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
I've done this a few times with my Jackson. I didn't think of this until after I'd done it, but presumably you could slacken off the tuners, then there'd be no stress on the nut at all?