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I'm terrified of drilling the control cavity. It'll be two 10mm hole for the volume pots and 1 12mm (!) hole for the toggle. I still need to decide on layout - maybe I'll have the switch at the top, then neck volume, then bridge, but we'll see. That's tomorrow afternoon's job. If anyone has advice on that...!
Picture makes it look wonky but it's just optical distortion from a wide lens being so close. These are the easy ones.
I don't recall this being there yesterday, so I imagine it's the screw - perhaps the hole was slightly the wrong size, or I was out of tolerance after all.
Does anyone have any ideas on repair? I'm thinking I can use some superglue and clamp it, which should be okay I think, or I can fill the drilled screwed holes and try redrilling. Is that worthwhile? Perhaps @WezV you have some experience in this sort of repair..? Appreciate any help!
@icbm would your toothpick-and-woodglue method be suitable? I can't see why not...
a) the pilot hole was a bit small and the screw caused the wood to split, or
b) the bushing was really tight causing the split
if “a” Id drill it out a little larger, plug the screw hole and redrill a slightly bigger hole than before.
if “b” sand the bushing hole a little to make the bushing a slightly looser fit
If you can open the crack up a little, Id be inclined to push a bit of glue into the split….
Thanks, I'll definitely try to glue the crack. I think I will fill and redrill - if I can get a toothpick and wood glue in, it should be fine, rather than using wood filler.
I used a 1.5mm hole but I'll redrill with a 2mm bit. The screws went in fine I thought - but I'm more used to screwing into maple which is near-invincible...
Here is where I'm at now - lesson is learned! All drilled out to 2mm, no need to fill all the holes - I'll just fill these two, as it might reinforce the crack that now exists. I hope it isn't going to cause structural issues - it was impossible to get superglue in, I couldn't open it, so I just drenched the area then clamped - hopefully it'll work well enough!
Really appreciate the help. I think it was the pilot holes being a bit tight - 2mm still provides plenty for the threads to cut, so 1.5 was probably pushing it. I should have tested.
Nah, I'm sure it'll be fine. The absolute, worst case scenario is it falls off and I need to remove that wing and make a new one. I'd see that as a learning opportunity - I ballsed it up, so I'll fix it.
For what it's worth, I literally couldn't see the hairline with the screws removed (and with them in it returned - so that is the issue). So I know the new holes will be fine, I just need to make sure that crack has been healed properly. I'll find out in a few days I suppose, give the glue as much time as needed...
Were the bushes at all fighty to get in? They'd be more likely to cause a split being so much bigger vs the screws, and their holes going all the way through. Might be the split ran to the screw holes as a path of least resistance type of thing.
If the bushes need anything more than pressing in by hand or the lightest tap from a small #1 Adjusting Tool, the holes need a bit of a fettle.
Edit: I'll be sanding off the CA, should be sanding tomorrow, and may even get around to applying grain filler. Depends how long it takes to get the CA removed! I wiped off most excess (which left me with some gorgeous looking cotton fibres) so there is a need to sand. Not intending to stain I think - quite like just natural mahogany.
1. Don't like this for looks. Might not be practical either for neck pickup volume.
2. Looks more balanced, should work. Decent spacing, too.
3. Straight line - other top choice. Doesn't seem as practical as number 2 but looks nice and clean.
4. Looks a bit cramped but would work well and look nice.
You really need to lay out the controls on the from to see what works. You can trace the cavity and body outline to get approximate locations on the front
Instagram
Yes, I'll be doing just that - I have been playing this morning and think the second option will work best, but I've drawn the cavity on the front and will be having a think...
Hopefully will update with successful holes later today!
This is just rough layout - I'll measure the locations before I drill so the switch and bridge volume are equidistant from the neck volume, that should make it look "correct" from the front. Lots of space, toggle is oriented well for how I play (ie more horizontal rather than diagonal) and I'll be able to use it as a killswitch.
Edit: calipers show the cts pots are a bit under 10mm. So I'm going to use a smaller bit and then a reamer - this should let me get a nice snug fit and minimise risk for me.
As it is, it's in the right orientation and was located very well on both sides. Just need to do the pots after lunch and the scariest part is done and dusted. Phew...