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What you want to avoild is oil getting sucked in to the screw holes in the wood, making it soft and mushy. If I was doing it I would take them off, degrease them, apply oil or grease and let them dry out a bit before reinstalling.
Naptha / Napthalene is a fairly benign petroleum distillate solvent that evaporates quite quickly and tends not to damage older lacquers or metal plating, so even if a small amount leaks out the side of the tuner cover it most likely won't dissolve, soften, or crackle the lacquer on an old guitar (or even the plastic tulip/keystone button of Klusons), whereas many other solvents will. The fluid used to refill Zippo type wick and wadding lighters is naptha based (Zippo, Swan, Ronsonol, Clipper brands) - not the compressed can which is gas, only the liquid stuff in the small rectangular tins with the flip-up fine pointed nozzles.
Incidentally, mothballs of old used to be made mostly from naptha but being flammable they developed safer alternatives. Those waxy firelighter blocks that come with disposable barbecues are mostly naptha.
3-in-1 oil is clean light oil that will stay on the surfaces for a good while without running off or drying into a gum as long as it is applied sparingly. Most light mineral oil will work. "Gun oil" is very light. Never use oil that is plant based because it will usually putrefy, stink, go sticky, and rot the wood, as some people have discovered after using something like Crisp 'n Dry or Flora to "condition" their fretboards !!
My preference is actually to take off the tuner, spray it out with electrical switch cleaning solvent, and then apply a very fine smear of vaseline, chapstick, or similar to the contact points. I suppose Dan Erlewine is probably trying to avoid unnecessarily removing the screws from an old guitar, because doing that too often will eventually require that the screw holes be plugged and re-drilled to hold the screws firmly.
This covered PRS, Fender, Gibbos, Ibanez, Taylor and Vansons. The latter were the only ones with detectable lubricant on all six worm wheels. The PRS (a CE) had just a few grains of sand...
In sum, a strip, clean and re-grease will likely improve ANY sealed tuner, making it feel much more expensive than it is.
This probably doesn't help the semi open type on some instruments (as with the OP's), but probably will many others.
Personally I would use something slightly heavier than 3-in-1, but that will be OK if it’s what you’ve got.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein