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I know this has probably been done to death but (so far) I’ve not been able to find an answer by searching. 
I embarked on a partscaster build last year, and chose (out of ignorance) tru oil to finish it even though I wanted a high gloss finish, after more coats of tru oil than a care to admit to its nearly there but…..a recent neck purchase and a few parts in my drawers got me thinking about another partscaster, but I’d still like a gloss finish with out the hassle - has anyone tried the Osmo oil? It claims to be a two coat high gloss system! That would be ideal, I don’t have any space to spray finish it so it needs to be a wipe on finish for me. If the osmo wont do what I want I wouldn’t have any issues getting the body sprayed, given how much I’ve spent in oils, sandpaper and time I probably should have done that in the first place.
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Comments

  • WezVWezV Frets: 17499
    edited August 2022
    The osmo might be slightly easier to get glossy than tru, but the same issue applies.  Its still an oil finish  which is great when its trying to look like a natural oil finish, but limited when going high gloss

    You can get tru oi glossy in a couple of ways, its not just about adding more.  1st way is to wet sand it and build up layers that can be buffed exactly like a lacquer.  It takes a lot of time.  2nd way is to thin it with mineral spirits for its last coats which gives more of an instant gloss

    Do you have somewhere you could do a brush on finish?   If you cant spray there are other products that can be brushed, but many are quite fumey


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  • NeilybobNeilybob Frets: 947
    I used Crimson's finishing oil very successfully. 4 coats and a polish and it's mirror like, straight on to ash I'd burnt with a blow torch. 
    Trading feedback - https://www.thefretboard.co.uk/discussion/228538/neilybob

    flanging_fed “
    A Les Paul, @ThorpyFX ;;Veteran and the 4010 is awesome at volume, it’s like playing Thor’s hammer!” Ref Marshall JCM800 4010 combo 
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  • WezVWezV Frets: 17499
    I think someone said here that the crimson oil is quite a lot like tru oil thinned with mineral spirits

    I haven't used that one
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  • M1ckM1ck Frets: 265
    Thanks guys, its nearly there (for me) I'm just trying to avoid another time consuming expensive process that may not be very practical at all with my next project, admittedly I wasn't aware it could be wet sanded - I was conscious of liquid seepage into the exposed end grain around the pickups and the switches etc. so its been oiled then dry sanded many times even leaving it for around 6 weeks at the half way-ish mark to allow it to 'sink' then started again. as I said its nearly there I can get it really smooth from sanding with 4000 grit pads but it leaves the finish satin and previous attempts at polishing tru oil made it go milky!  
    Thanks for the suggestion of 'other products' @WezV but I'm asthmatic and have to be careful around products with a lot of solvent in them, tru oil in a large room is bearable.
    Despite all the negativity and time taken its been a rewarding experience, though the next one has to be a handful of coats or shipped out to a specialist for finishing.

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  • WezVWezV Frets: 17499
    I mean wetsanding with the oil, not water.... although you can do that on tru oil if its dried enough, i wouldnt.
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  • M1ckM1ck Frets: 265
    Ah! Right  :/ :s 
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  • TTonyTTony Frets: 28444
    @WezV ’s wetsanding technique is legendary ;)
    Having trouble posting images here?  This might help.
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  • M1ckM1ck Frets: 265
    I don’t doubt it - just wish I’d known about it before I started!  :3 still I got there in the end! 12 months it taken to get this far!!!
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  • M1ckM1ck Frets: 265
    @WezV ;
    i found your thread describing your oiling technique albeit it a bit late in the process. However I think I’ve messed it up, so before I sand it right back to start again I would be grateful for some advice.
    I’ve been using progressively finer abrasives with the last one being 4000grit sanding pads, I then switched to a t-cut type product and tried to buff it by hand to start with, then tried a buffing attachment on a drill both ways did nothing - they barley touched it. Is it something that takes a while or have I screwed it - I didn’t burn the the oil polishing it - or do I need to let it cure a bit longer?
    I was thinking about (wet) sanding it and applying a few more coats before trying again, or possibly sanding it right back or stripping it and starting again

    i should say I tried a small bit first a couple of days ago and it worked great! 
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  • WezVWezV Frets: 17499
    edited September 2022
    I have never buffed a built up oil finish with an abrasive compound.  I expect it would need a long cure for that to work, or it may even never work.


    Did you fully wipe off the slurry created by wetsanding with oil?  My process leaves very little on the surface.  It feels smooth and has a nice sheen, but it isnt high gloss
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  • M1ckM1ck Frets: 265
    A long ‘cute’ !  ;) I know what you mean.
    Yes I did wipe the slurry off and to be honest I might just leave it at that sheen so long as it’s flat, it looks ok, as you say it’s a nice sheen. I’d prefer a gloss but I’m starting to think I might have used the wrong finish in the first place, it’s been on the go so long now I just want it finished and strung so I can play the damn thing, a softer sheen would probably wear into gloss anyway where it rubs and that might look ok too.
    I just don’t get it - I polished the control cavity cover (same timber as body) and it came up like glass! Easily too. 
    Thanks for the advice - the more I think about it the more I’m liking the ‘soft sheen’ idea
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  • WezVWezV Frets: 17499
    Sorry, was typing whilst cooking. 

    If you want a glossier finish than what you have now finish with natural briwax and lots of elbow grease
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