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*An Official Foo-Approved guitarist since Sept 2023.
http://www.theboxwoodchessmen.com/
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My Avalon sounded pretty good from the outset - but it has gradually been getting even better as it has opened up over the past 18 months
If you are buying new top-notch acoustics, you need a ToneRite or PrimeVibe to break them in.
It made a massive and fast difference to my new sinker redwood guitar, and almost every other guitar I have used it on
How has it aged, for those that have one..? The bass on YouTube vids sounds thunky in a good way, I think.
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Because the silver oak guitar I briefly had.... had something going on with the sound.
Sounded fantastic but it really grated on my ears to the point that it flared up my tinnitus to painful and worrying levels.
So I ought to be careful with bog oak.
Regarding this build I keep going on about...... perhaps I should stick to the more sapele-type sound and experiment both with different body characteristics (OO 12-fret, perhaps) and different top woods. Lutz for white spruce complexity coupled with adirondack's headroom (apparently - I haven't tried it!) or moon spruce which has something very cool going on with it (though moon spruce is slightly more fundamental and I wouldn't want any treble shimmer being affected by that). I also never realised that "European spruce" is not the same as engelmann.... or at least, I don't think it is.......
All the above is just one aspect. I was checking out a luthier that uses a mixture of both standard bracing + fanned bracing, which he though improved the tone. Bracing... scalloped, tapered, what to do (as opposed to top thickness carving)... No back bracing, no kerfing... shifting of the X-brace (shifting it close to sound hole does seem to give things more air and complexity but I feel you lose the bass response a bit..... you don't get something for nothing is what I always say - key point being Larrivee's "scalloped" [actually tapered...] bracing which some love for the extra bass but what those guitars gain in the bass department, they lose in the mids-trebles shimmer department!).
And then I was reading that blackwood necks (IIRC) are apparently a nice upgrade to standard mahogany and as @Tannin was saying, multi-layer is actually better for stability. The materials for the bridge, the nut & saddle (tusq I think I prefer over bone). To get an arm bevel or not... the effect of a cutaway on EQ (I've read it affects the trebles a tad). The neck shape! I don't like any V, too deep a C is hard for barre work... the depth of the body! The material for the bracing (adi seems popular for lightness/strength)
Man, I love acoustic guitar!!
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Stop there @thomasross20, my brain is starting to hurt.
Good to know the above thanks!
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European Spruce is a particularly beautiful tree. I wanted my British guitar to be all-British but after meeting European Spruces in Croatia (and also Austria, Slovenia, Switzerland) I was more than happy to use it as a top. (Maybe Englemann Spruce is equally lovely in the flesh. I would not know.)
The strumming thing is important to me as I do strum, which is why I've stayed away from engelmann to date.
A side note here as I was looking at wood database over lunch ..
Honduran & Cuban hog have pretty much the same weight & hardness. But this new sipo has slightly higher numbers than both, edging toward sapele. Keen to hear that wood now : D
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